A/C blower keeps blowng the fuse :(

[RickyN29]

Okay, I finished the job. Incredible results. I will have a little write up coming soon. (if anyone even checks this thread anymore!)

The basics though:

The factory circuit is designed for 25 amps. The circuit can only handle 15-20 amps MAX without overloading (due to age, wire corrosion, etc)

The blower motor on MAX draws 16-19 amps, the compressor clutch draws another 6-8amps. This is running the circuit at more than 100% of capacity, hence hot wires, inconsistent performance, and blowing/melting fuses.

I have rewired and created a new, 40 amp circuit. Constant draw on circuit with everything on MAX is 20-25 amps, so the circuit is only at 50% capacity and corrects the problem.

Everything is verified on DC Ammeter +/- 3%

 

[tcm glx]

Okay, I finished the job. Incredible results. I will have a little write up coming soon. (if anyone even checks this thread anymore!)

The basics though:

The factory circuit is designed for 25 amps. The circuit can only handle 15-20 amps MAX without overloading (due to age, wire corrosion, etc)

The blower motor on MAX draws 16-19 amps, the compressor clutch draws another 6-8amps. This is running the circuit at more than 100% of capacity, hence hot wires, inconsistent performance, and blowing/melting fuses.

I have rewired and created a new, 40 amp circuit. Constant draw on circuit with everything on MAX is 20-25 amps, so the circuit is only at 50% capacity and corrects the problem.

Everything is verified on DC Ammeter +/- 3%

Write up plzzz, I still have issues with mine!

 

[GSequoia]

Note: I haven't read the entire thread.


When my blower motor fuse was blowing I had to replace the Low Pressure Cut Off switch for the AC; this is mounted on the receiver/dryer and was pretty cheap from AutoZone. It fixed it in a hurry and is super easy.

Sequoia

 

[tcm glx]

Note: I haven't read the entire thread.


When my blower motor fuse was blowing I had to replace the Low Pressure Cut Off switch for the AC; this is mounted on the receiver/dryer and was pretty cheap from AutoZone. It fixed it in a hurry and is super easy.

Sequoia

WHere is the Low Pressure cut off switch..pics pics pics!

 

[GSequoia]

Part 13 is the low pressure switch. The receiver / dryer that it's attached to is the canister looking guy that is mounted on the RH side of the engine bay beneith the compressor.

The switch is about 1" in diameter and has two wires going to it, you can't miss it.

 

[tcm glx]

Part 13 is the low pressure switch. The receiver / dryer that it's attached to is the canister looking guy that is mounted on the RH side of the engine bay beneith the compressor.

The switch is about 1" in diameter and has two wires going to it, you can't miss it.

Will my system loose pressure and have to be re-charged again by swithcing this?

 

[GSequoia]

Yes, you'll lose your coolant.

Now if you want to make sure... Unplug the switch and turn your stuff on. If ti no longer blows the blower motor fuse that's your problem. Of course your AC wn't work while that switch is disconnected.

 

[tcm glx]

Okay, I finished the job. Incredible results. I will have a little write up coming soon. (if anyone even checks this thread anymore!)

The basics though:

The factory circuit is designed for 25 amps. The circuit can only handle 15-20 amps MAX without overloading (due to age, wire corrosion, etc)

The blower motor on MAX draws 16-19 amps, the compressor clutch draws another 6-8amps. This is running the circuit at more than 100% of capacity, hence hot wires, inconsistent performance, and blowing/melting fuses.

I have rewired and created a new, 40 amp circuit. Constant draw on circuit with everything on MAX is 20-25 amps, so the circuit is only at 50% capacity and corrects the problem.

Everything is verified on DC Ammeter +/- 3%

Any luck on that write up??

 

[RickyN29]

Any luck on that write up??

Well, it worked perfect for over a month. I ran the AC for hour upon hour. Then out of the blue, there is a hiccup. The radio cuts off, and so does the blower.

I am not even sure where these two systems have any wiring in common. Once I figure this out, I will post more details.

 

[tcm glx]

Well, it worked perfect for over a month. I ran the AC for hour upon hour. Then out of the blue, there is a hiccup. The radio cuts off, and so does the blower.

I am not even sure where these two systems have any wiring in common. Once I figure this out, I will post more details.

Yeah, they have to have something in common.....every time my fuse blows...my radio will shut off and then come right back on....


URRGGGHH This is frustrating. Makes me want to sell the damn thing!

 

[RickyN29]

Well I found this:

Which further confuses me. This shows there is no correlation between the radio and the HVAC system. I am completely stumped.


Also, my main power in to my aux fuse box, which is a 00 gauge cable fed from battery to panel is fused at the battery with a MAXI fuse 40amp. On my most recent camping trip, I lost power at the panel, popped the hood, and found the entire fuse/fuse holder/housing melted! I am talking seriously metled.

The HVAC system was not even on. The fuse panel also feeds my amp, floodlights, alarm, power doorlocks, and more. Nothing is showing a short to ground, and a full short would have just blown the fuse. Somewhere, something is drawing a large amount of current, enough to melt plastic, but not blow the fuse.

Take a look at the diagram and see if you find anything. I sure didn't.

 

[tcm glx]

Yeah, i had seen that diagram......makes no sense to me either!

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

i have the same problem
but i think that the problem is behind the center consol because my resistor pack fuse blew 2 moths ago while it was still hot in egypt and i used the AC alot .This december I bought a new head unit and i kept taking it off and on several times .Then last week i turned the heater on which worked for several minutes than blew.
I m sure the problem is in the wiring behind the dash between the HVAC and Radio Controls