98XJ: Project Salsa

one step forward, three steps back. reamed the pitman arm, got the rear driveshaft bolted up. ended up cutting the trackbar mount completely off.. looks like if i turn left and the jeep lifts and comes back down it'll put the drag link in between the mount and cause hell. so that had to move.

got one upper shock mount in, cut a piece of 1.75" DOM in half longways, and welded two tabs to it, and welded that up to the to where the stock mount is. i hope the shock mount doesnt rip off.. i feel like these shocks will hold the whole jeep up without compressing. lower mount will be right on the coil bucket.. should be pretty much even up/down travel.. maybe like .5"-1" more down... 10" travel shock.

ordered a pair of new tube adapters from ruffstuff since i need to shorten my tie rod and drag link. at the moment i feel like i'm half half-assing it rushing to get this thing driving and half driving myself crazy trying to do it right.
 
IT DRIVES! does 55 through the dirt and tracks straight with my hands off the wheel.

what i still need to fix:

1- brakes. the pedal hits the floor. i'm thinking air in the system even though everyone says 'upgrade your master'... my buddy's 91 XJ with a 95 xj dual diaphragm booster/mc feels better than stock with a 60/14b, basically the same size calipers front and rear as what im running.

2- pass side lower shock mount is upside down... me being an idiot. driver's side is good at just about 5.5" up, 4.5" down. the pass side is reverse that.

3- steering feels awesome but the alignment is way off. the wheel is way off center and i cant turn full to the left. this is because both the draglink and tie rod (wheels scrub bad when i turn) are about 1.5" too long. new inserts from ruffstuff are on their way.

4- rear shocks and bumps. they need to get in there. however the deavers are stiff enough that its really not bad at all without em. also the back is sitting pretty low compared to the front. probably gonna pick up some longer shackles.

5- cut me up a front DS and run the front ox cable. 4wd would be nice.

then its on to finish up the roll cage and bumpers. a huge weight was lifted off my shoulders tonight when i was able to drive it out of my buddy's place and drive down the street... no wobbles, no vibes. she sits in front of my house now, safe and sound.
 
Last edited:
XJLI said:
IT DRIVES! does 55 through the dirt and tracks straight with my hands off the wheel.

what i still need to fix:

1- brakes. the pedal hits the floor. i'm thinking air in the system even though everyone says 'upgrade your master'... my buddy's 91 XJ with a 95 xj dual diaphragm booster/mc feels better than stock with a 60/14b, basically the same size calipers front and rear as what im running.
Click to expand...

No way. Same MC bore with larger diameter pistons in the calipers is never going to feel right. You want the ~'98 Dodge Ram 2500 MC that I'm running; bolts right in with a small spacer for the pushrod. Just XXXXing do it and stop dicking around with undersized hardware.

XJLI said:
3- steering feels awesome but the alignment is way off. the wheel is way off center and i cant turn full to the left. this is because both the draglink and tie rod (wheels scrub bad when i turn) are about 1.5" too long. new inserts from ruffstuff are on their way.
Click to expand...

Um...why not just grind the welds out and do it over? The inserts on my tie rod have been used in 3 different tie rods so far.

XJLI said:
4- rear shocks and bumps. they need to get in there. however the deavers are stiff enough that its really not bad at all without em. also the back is sitting pretty low compared to the front. probably gonna pick up some longer shackles.
Click to expand...

If it's not bad without rear shocks, whatever you were driving over isn't bad either. Your jeep isn't magic, rear shocks do actually serve a purpose. .!.:D.!.

Nice work on gettin it moving.
 
Speedbump96 said:
i got a question about ur arms are u running into any uptravel issues with the arms hitting when u flex the axle?
Click to expand...

no idea, i havent really checked. then again, i'm running a f250 hp44, not a d30. but the mounts are almost in the same place

rweaver138 said:
PICTURES BRO!
Click to expand...

sooooon

vetteboy said:
No way. Same MC bore with larger diameter pistons in the calipers is never going to feel right. You want the ~'98 Dodge Ram 2500 MC that I'm running; bolts right in with a small spacer for the pushrod. Just XXXXing do it and stop dicking around with undersized hardware.
Click to expand...
FINE. i'll buy one tomorrow and put it in after work.

vetteboy said:
Um...why not just grind the welds out and do it over? The inserts on my tie rod have been used in 3 different tie rods so far.
Click to expand...

the new ruff stuff inserts are weird, and i dont feel confident enough to do it. the 30 bucks shipped is worth it to just slice it off and weld new ones on. i already ordered them anyway lol

vetteboy said:
If it's not bad without rear shocks, whatever you were driving over isn't bad either. Your jeep isn't magic, rear shocks do actually serve a purpose. .!.:D.!.
Nice work on gettin it moving
Click to expand...

yea yea. .!.:D.!.
 
1st. Don't sell this thing, you'll regret it sooner rather than later. Once you get to really wheel it you'll fall back in love with it.

2nd. What valving did you choose for your shocks? They're 7100's, right? How does it ride so far, any adjustments to valving planned? I saw they were available without the resi, what's the schrader valve for in that set-up? Sorry for so many questions but you seem to know a good deal about shocks and I'm new to the fancypants ones. Thanks.
 
They're 9100s, remote resi... custom built and valved by bilstein in CA so far I just have the front 2 in and they're effing awesome. If you want 7100s is run 360/80 valve front, 278/75 rear.
 
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