97 XJ Street Fighter, AW-4 AWShifting TCU & Paddle Shifter Installation -

A

A Satria

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jakarta, INDONESIA
Hi All,

I am going to write up a detail step by step installation of the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) that were purchased from AWShifting (BrettM) www.AWshifting.com
in my existing 1997 Auto XJ.

The TCU (along with the Paddle Shifter) was purchased sometimes in July 2006 direct from AWShifting, but due to ;
  1. suspension project
  2. dyno test project,
I did not have the time to install it. Now is the time to install and try out what has been purchased.....

AWShifting sent all the items needed for the installation as well as handling the shipment from US to Jakarta, INDONESIA. Anyway, it is only 24 hours of flying from the US to Indonesia ..... :patriot: :laugh2:


OK, here we go....

the Original Paddle Shifter when it came....
paddle.jpg

padl_fml.jpg

​
- I need to lenghten the left and right shifter so that it will match with the diameter of the new steering wheel




ps : BrettM, Please jump-in and correct me if I was wrong....
 
Yours was the first shifter made, and I should warn you that you may have problems. The second one, which I made at the same time and the same way, had problems for that tester. I traced the problem down and it's impossible to know if it will be a problem for you also until you try it. The problem has been fixed, so let me know if I need to send you another control box.

I'm looking forward to see how you modify and mount the paddles.
 
BrettM said:
-- Yours was the FIRST shifter made --:patriot: :greensmok ​
  1. I should warn you that you may have problems.
  2. The second one, which I made at the same time and the same way, had problems for that tester.
  3. I traced the problem down and it's impossible to know if it will be a problem for you also until you try it.
  4. The problem has been fixed, so let me know if I need to send you another control box.
  5. I'm looking forward to see how you modify and mount the paddles.
Click to expand...
  1. What was the problem/s exactly ?
  2. What was the problem/s exactly ?
  3. OK, let me try it first
  4. OK, let me try it first
  5. I'll post up picture once it is modified and installed
 
Priandhi Satria said:
  1. What was the problem/s exactly ?
  2. What was the problem/s exactly ?
  3. OK, let me try it first
  4. OK, let me try it first
  5. I'll post up picture once it is modified and installed
Click to expand...
it's complicated, and a huge pain to diagnose originally, but you'll notice very quickly if yours is affected also. If it's bad everything will work fine in auto mode but it sometimes not downshift in manual.

Let me be very clear for anyone else reading; only the first 2 were made this way and it has been completely resolved.
 
Now Brett I"ve lost confidence.

You're just going to have to send me the complete kit, along with paddles for free to regain my trust.

:laugh3:

See you in JV.
:cheers:
 
Existing Steering Wheel
- MOMO "Tuner" Leather​

  • Just finished installing the MOMO Steering Wheel.
  • I know, I "GIVE UP" on the original steering wheel and lost the AIRBAG..., but then again..., the airbag is inly on driver side, not on all of the passanger and side air bag. If it is so, I might think twice before removing the air bag.
  • I have not decide whether to go with the "PADDLE" Type or "Steering Wheel Push Button" like those on some WRC RALLYE CAR
  • Any comment and ideas...:banghead:
 
Existing Steering Wheel
- MOMO "Tuner" Leather

OPTION # 1
Using Paddle Kit mounted behind steering wheel

Pros
Looks like race / rally car
Easy Wiring to the switches

Cons
Need to fabricate a nice longer paddle
Up / Down shifter switches can be seen
​

Shifter-1a.jpg

​
Shifter-1a.jpg
​



 
BrettM said:
maybe chop the center tube in half
and mount each side to the momo wheel a couple inches wider
Click to expand...

I was thinking about that idea...
BUT, SHOULD it ROTATE with the steering wheel OR SHOULD it stay FIXED ?

If it ROTATE, how should I run the cable to the paddle. It will get tangled...:read:
 
Last edited:
Paging BrettM,...

Brett,
OR
Anyone expertise on Electronics Transmission...

Could you please be kind enough to explain the function of the button for the Torque Converte Lock-Up (using the AWSHIFTEING Electronics Control Unit)?

  1. What does it do when you press the switch to LOCK ?
  2. What does it do when you press the switch to UN-LOCK ?
  3. Should you be crusing down the freeway Lock or Un-lock ?
  4. Should you be in the traffic Lock or Un-lock ?
  5. Should you be going downhill Lock or Un-lock ?
  6. Should you be going uphill Lock or Un-lock ?
Thanks for the explanations,...
 
Answers

1. "locks" the torque converter , essentially locking the crankshaft to the transmission input shaft
2. allows the engine crankshaft to rotate largely independently of the transmission and uses the fluid in the torque converter to transfer the torque to the transmission, the higher the engine rpms the less slippage the torque converter allows.
3. Cruising on the freeway Should be in "lock" position
4. In traffic, UN-Lock
5. If you want engine braking on a downhill lock, if you want to coast, unlock
6, uphill, if it is a steep grade, unlock,

The "unlock" position will generate more heat in the torque converter and the transmission, but will allow a bit of a gear reducing effect for passing and when more torque is needed. Locking will increase the fuel efficiency on the highway.
 
Last edited:
from my FAQ:

What does the torque convertor lock do?
When you lock up the torque convertor it takes the "slip" out of the transmission making it more efficient and run cooler. The factory computer will lock it up under medium to light throttle in third and fourth gears, basically to gain efficiency when cruising on the highway. Some people use it offroad for extra compression braking, and although I can't recommend that because it's not designed for it and will likely reduce the life of your torque convertor, many people do it and I've never heard of a failure.
Click to expand...
 
goodburbon said:
Answers

1. "locks" the torque converter , essentially locking the crankshaft to the transmission input shaft
2. allows the engine crankshaft to rotate largely independently of the transmission and uses the fluid in the torque converter to transfer the torque to the transmission, the higher the engine rpms the less slippage the torque converter allows.
3. Cruising on the freeway Should be in "lock" position
4. In traffic, UN-Lock
5. If you want engine braking on a downhill lock, if you want to coast, unlock
6, uphill, if it is a steep grade, unlock,

The "unlock" position will generate more heat in the torque converter and the transmission, but will allow a bit of a gear reducing effect for passing and when more torque is needed. Locking will increase the fuel efficiency on the highway.
Click to expand...

thanks you very much for the simple BUT detail information.

I can immagine how it would work, but still have to try it myself.

PLUS with how I would translate it into my language, it would make it a little bit unclear.:flamemad:

Anyway, Thanks for the explanation,...
 
BrettM said:
from my FAQ:
What does the torque convertor lock do?
When you lock up the torque convertor it takes the "slip" out of the transmission making it more efficient and run cooler. The factory computer will lock it up under medium to light throttle in third and fourth gears, basically to gain efficiency when cruising on the highway.
Click to expand...

OK.
So, with your new additional TCU in installed, should I put it on ;
T. Converter lock at all time
Automatic Transmission on Automatic Selector
while putting the original selector to D
, and drive it as ussual ???

T. Converter lock at all time
Automatic Transmission on Manual Selector
while putting the original selector to D
, and drive it using your gear selector ???
​
 
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