8.5" XJ Death Wobble, Can't Keep Throwing Money At This

xj-n it said:
dont know if any one said this or asked this but did you try an SYE kit and see if that does it
Click to expand...

:conceited
 
Since i took this picture i got rid of the shity temp"pitman arm drop", i was just hopin for the best. I also bought all grade 8 bolts for all the steering components. and I KNOW the track bar is upside down and backwards. My dad installed it while i was working on the back and for some odd reason the bushing in the adjustable end wasnt big enough for the bolt thats rustys sent with the frame mount bracket. Strange. But anyways. The only thing i can think of is maybe that the 1.5 inch spacer thru the caster off slightly and the alignment still needs to be redone.

noutlawjeeper said:
why do you have spacers? 6.5 is big enough to fit 35 without spacers. i run 33's with a 4.5" coils in front. post a pic of your front end so we can see what you both have going on up there.
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Beats the hell out of me... with it set up just how i have it my 33's just barely scrub on the back of my front fender. With some very minor trimming it would be fine... I ask myself that quite frequently. why the hek can i only fit 33s when i see others fitting 35s with no problem...without hakin up the fenders... I'm not so sure how to go about doing that and makin it look good... Heres how it sits now...

2483616_28.jpg

2483616_25_full.jpg

2483616_24_full.jpg

2483616_32.jpg
 
lowrange2 said:
Is the axle supposed to sit that far back? Notice in the second picture?
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thats what happens when ya run short arms with that amount of lift
 
the only adjustment in my arms are the two holes in the UCAs. One is about an inch further back than the other to adjust camber... The LCAs are not adjustable. I guess I'm just gunna have to do the LAs
 
Let me guess, it only rubs when you turn, correct? The reason you're rubbing at the rear of the fenders is the enormous amount offset from running 10" wide wheels. Not only is it bad for your rubbing issue, it's also terrible for the axle's unit bearings....
 
Never Had a problem with 10 inch rims for the 6 years i've been running them... On the 3 different Cherokees never had a single problem with wheel bearings... Ill just be hackin up the fenders then...
 
Get a set of drop brackets and adjustable control arms. Get rid of the spacer and adjust your axle 1 1/2 -2 inches forward. Problem solved...
 
I had DW on only 3'' and since I spent 2 months and much $$ on fixing it I will say this CASTER CASTER CASTER!!! when you had it aligned what was the caster? even if they wont touch it they should provide a printout with the angle. yes stock specs are 7-5* but i would say go even as low as 4* if you need to. My issue was too much positive caster. stock control arms and 3" gave me 10*. Got fixed lowers, adjustable uppers and got 4* No more death wobble. I will forever say that DW is 1st alignment, 2nd track bar. If a jeep is propery aligned, things can be worn and it should still drive straight with no DW.
 
hey there,
ive run pretty much the same lift for about a year an a half.
8 inch short arm lift, (no drop backets) an standard steering.

i only ever had two problems-
1. the steering was always well greased an the ends did'nt wear out but cos of the angles they were quite easy to bend an i did a couple of times off road!!
2. cos it was a short arm lift i could wear out a set of shocks in 5 months, thats where all my problems with death wobble came from!!! cos of the sharp angles on the C.A's you'll be getting more of a shock loading effect instead of shock absorbsion!!! an thats what kills the shockers.
try getting yourself a new set of shockers!!!

like a couple of people said, your front axle looks too far back! i'd personaly get that sorted first!!!
ive just been to garage an measured my lower control arms an got 18inches from bold centre to bolt centre, It ran well but could of done being a bit longer, as for the tops i had to mess about an experiment a bit from what i was told in order to get the camber right.

i ran 33's an it ran a bit close to the rear of the arches but i could of got away with 35's cos the axle would only got forward on compression an not far back cos it could'nt drop much further!

hopefully this might help you, an is clear as mud!!!

IMG_2846w.jpg
 
8" is way too much for 33s, 6" is almost too much. trim your fenders geez your Jeep is 20 years old its okay t otrim let it go man let it go. 4.5" and correct bumpstops will do fine for you and you can still go 35s later on.
 
IGOCOMMANDO said:
Get a set of drop brackets and adjustable control arms. Get rid of the spacer and adjust your axle 1 1/2 -2 inches forward. Problem solved...
Click to expand...
What part of "THe spacer is required to keep from scrubing" did you not understand, brilliance? I don't want to cut my fenders.


SeansBlueXJ said:
I had DW on only 3'' and since I spent 2 months and much $$ on fixing it I will say this CASTER CASTER CASTER!!! when you had it aligned what was the caster? even if they wont touch it they should provide a printout with the angle. yes stock specs are 7-5* but i would say go even as low as 4* if you need to. My issue was too much positive caster. stock control arms and 3" gave me 10*. Got fixed lowers, adjustable uppers and got 4* No more death wobble. I will forever say that DW is 1st alignment, 2nd track bar. If a jeep is propery aligned, things can be worn and it should still drive straight with no DW.
Click to expand...

Thats the way i feel about it! Smart fella Sean!
 
lowrange2 said:
What part of "THe spacer is required to keep from scrubing" did you not understand, brilliance?
Click to expand...

Easy there, tough guy. These people are trying to help you, and are managing to resist the namecalling, deserved though it may be...

lowrange2 said:
I don't want to cut my fenders.
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... then you're going to have a hell of a time running 33s on those deepdish wheels...

Robert
 
Last edited:
8 inches in the air on short arms would scare the fuck out of me. overkill imho but what do i know.
 
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