8,000 BTU Portable A/C with window tube

fdsa487

NAXJA Forum User
Does anyone have any idea how good this would work to cool off 1 master bedroom? The room faces the sun all day and gets super hot. Its even hot in there at night. I want to buy this for one room only. Its $299 at Home Depot. We are renting and they wont let us put in a window a/c unit. Stupid.
 
fdsa487 said:
Does anyone have any idea how good this would work to cool off 1 master bedroom? The room faces the sun all day and gets super hot. Its even hot in there at night. I want to buy this for one room only. Its $299 at Home Depot. We are renting and they wont let us put in a window a/c unit. Stupid.

How large is the room? We've got a similar problem here (right down to renting,) and we picked up a 10K BTU Royal Sovereign from Costco last summer - really seemed to help! I've not cranked it down to "fridge" levels (much as I'd like to...) but on hot days, it's nice to have a room that gets to about 74-76*F without too much trouble.

If the window faces the sun, I'd also suggest that you replace the curtains with something that would have a bit more value as insulation, and with a white "outside." Both of these will help keep the sun from heating the room overmuch, and will save on power...
 
fdsa487 said:
Anyone???? What is the deal yo. Whatever I guess I can buy it. Home Depot is pretty cool about returning sh*t.

Patience...

1) We've got a lot of collected wisdom and experience here, but some of us do keep odd hours...

2) You stepped on my reply above - if you'd waited about one more minute, you'd not have had to post again...:D
 
5-90 said:
How large is the room? We've got a similar problem here (right down to renting,) and we picked up a 10K BTU Royal Sovereign from Costco last summer - really seemed to help! I've not cranked it down to "fridge" levels (much as I'd like to...) but on hot days, it's nice to have a room that gets to about 74-76*F without too much trouble.

If the window faces the sun, I'd also suggest that you replace the curtains with something that would have a bit more value as insulation, and with a white "outside." Both of these will help keep the sun from heating the room overmuch, and will save on power...

Im not totally sure on the master bedroom size, but its pretty big. We have a computer desk, 2 dressers and a california king size bed, a walk in closet, and a bathroom in there. Thanks for the advice!!!
 
Last edited:
12,000 btu's of cooling (1 ton) @ 400 cfm (air flow) will cool 400sq. ft. of avg. insulated

space on a 95 deg. day to 75 deg. @ 50% humidity. So 8,000 btu's should cool a 600

sq. ft. room. The higher the humidity(latent heat) the less temp.(sensible heat) will be

transfered out of the room.
 
Ironmen77 said:
12,000 btu's of cooling (1 ton) @ 400 cfm (air flow) will cool 400sq. ft. of avg. insulated

space on a 95 deg. day to 75 deg. @ 50% humidity. So 8,000 btu's should cool a 600

sq. ft. room. The higher the humidity(latent heat) the less temp.(sensible heat) will be

transfered out of the room.

Well the room is for sure not 600 sq ft. so I should be alright keeping it on low. =)

Thank you!
 
Like 5-90 said shut out the sun from the room. Carpets, walls, beds will hold

heat that will take btu's to cool back down. Btu's you want to cool and

dehumidify the room air.
 
talk to a tint shop and see if they carry clear or very light tint. most high quality tint blocks 100% of UV, it will keep the room much cooler. the front on my shop faces the morning sun with two big 10x15 ft windows, and it used to be a solar oven all morning.... now its tinted very light (so little you almost cant tell) and its much much better now.
 
you'll be fine with 8k and the tint idea is great. We had the front of my brothers shop tinted Dark as a privacy thing.
 
I have one sitting next to me as I type, it's an Edgestar, works well, just a pia to dump the container. Luckily it shuts off when it's full.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
talk to a tint shop and see if they carry clear or very light tint. most high quality tint blocks 100% of UV, it will keep the room much cooler. the front on my shop faces the morning sun with two big 10x15 ft windows, and it used to be a solar oven all morning.... now its tinted very light (so little you almost cant tell) and its much much better now.

Except UVA and UVB aren't what heat up the room - it's IR (infrared) that heats things up. Getting tint with a slight gold colour will help to reduce IR transmission into the room (reducing UVA/UVB will merely help to keep things from fading...)

Ideally, you want a lightly reflective gold colour to keep IR transmission down.

As far as types/brands, the reason we got the Royal Sovereign from Costco was because it actually has two hoses at the window, and no water tray. It's a bit more efficient, since it runs room air as a separate loop from outside air, allowing for more heat discharge and blowing humidity out alongside with the exhaust (I think that's how it works - I'm not much of an aircon tech...)
 
5-90 said:
Except UVA and UVB aren't what heat up the room - it's IR (infrared) that heats things up. Getting tint with a slight gold colour will help to reduce IR transmission into the room (reducing UVA/UVB will merely help to keep things from fading...)

Ideally, you want a lightly reflective gold colour to keep IR transmission down.

As far as types/brands, the reason we got the Royal Sovereign from Costco was because it actually has two hoses at the window, and no water tray. It's a bit more efficient, since it runs room air as a separate loop from outside air, allowing for more heat discharge and blowing humidity out alongside with the exhaust (I think that's how it works - I'm not much of an aircon tech...)

umm...isn't glass opaque to IR. The IR is radiated from surfaces in the room that absorb light - light of whatever spectum is coming through the window. It's the opacity of glass that causes the heat rise (greenhouse effect). Tinting the windows will reduce overall light entry to the room, thus reducing IR radiance within the room. Filtering UV will reduce sunburn.

Just keeping watch over the details. It's what I do :D
 
XJ Dreamin' said:
umm...isn't glass opaque to IR. The IR is radiated from surfaces in the room that absorb light - light of whatever spectum is coming through the window. It's the opacity of glass that causes the heat rise (greenhouse effect). Tinting the windows will reduce overall light entry to the room, thus reducing IR radiance within the room. Filtering UV will reduce sunburn.

Just keeping watch over the details. It's what I do :D

No, it is transparent (in typical forms. I'm sure there are some "exotic glasses" that are opaque to IR.) That's largely why you can start a fire with a magnifying glass - part of what you're focussing is IR "light" as well as visible. So, you're not only bringing all of the visible light to bear, but the invisible light as well (although UV and the shorter-wavelength colours have less to do with starting the fire than IR, red, orange, yellow and the lower end of the spectrum.)

Essentially, what happens to heat up the room is that visible light and IR get in through the window, and are absorbed by objects within the room. Since the IR (et al) isn't/aren't reflected back out through the window, they become "local heat" and result in a noticeable temperature increase.

Ideally, you want to keep IR right out of the room as much as possible - thus, the mildly reflective window tint and/or reflective & insulating window coverings.

Ford, for a time, installed windows in the Sable and Taurus wagon that were impregnated with trace amounts of gold in the glass - to reduce IR transmission and keep interior temperatures down. It worked rather well - but it also resulted in $1500 windscreens, $300 side windows, and just generally drove the price of the vehicle up - leading to abandonment of the project after a few years.

Gold is simply the most efficient reflector of infrared that is commonly available - which is why it was used. (Try pricing mirrors for LASER labs one of these days... Imagine a 2" round mirror costing upwards of $2000!) There are other solutions, but they will suffer a loss in efficiency relative to gold. You can use a reflective window tint (a/k/a "one-way glass") to reflect all light or IR, and that should keep temperatures down as well. Should also keep the neighbourhood Peeping Tom from seeing what you're up to as well...

Window tinting that results in partial absorbtion of light coming through the window will help the room - but you'll pick up some of the "waste heat" that is being absorbed by the tinting. If possible, you want a "reflective" window tint, which results in light rejection instead of light absorbtion. It's a small difference, but you should see it in your power bill...
 
what ever you want to say about it, i know tinting our front windows dropped the in store temp from 123° to 82° and we dont have AC just 3 pedestal fans... it helps.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
what ever you want to say about it, i know tinting our front windows dropped the in store temp from 123° to 82° and we dont have AC just 3 pedestal fans... it helps.

Absolutely.

My dad tried to give me a line about 'new fangled' tinted windows being warmer than clear windows, but he was really just trying to pull my leg. There's no way that comes anywhere near canceling the reduction in IR luminesence behind the tinted window. Blocking sunlight, even if only visible light, will reduce the amount of IR luminesence behind the glass, even if it heats the tinting membrane somewhat.

Don't jump yet, 5-90. I'm working on a reply but I'm trying to keep it under 1,000 words. It's still a work in progress.

As usual, we're way off the point, out here. To address the question: 8,000 BTU will cool the room. With tinting (either reflecting or absorbing some part of the light), and/or shades/curtains, the job would be easier.
 
XJ Dreamin' said:
Absolutely.

My dad tried to give me a line about 'new fangled' tinted windows being warmer than clear windows, but he was really just trying to pull my leg. There's no way that comes anywhere near canceling the reduction in IR luminesence behind the tinted window. Blocking sunlight, even if only visible light, will reduce the amount of IR luminesence behind the glass, even if it heats the tinting membrane somewhat.

Don't jump yet, 5-90. I'm working on a reply but I'm trying to keep it under 1,000 words. It's still a work in progress.

As usual, we're way off the point, out here. To address the question: 8,000 BTU will cool the room. With tinting (either reflecting or absorbing some part of the light), and/or shades/curtains, the job would be easier.

Oh - reducing light coming in will still lower temperatures - low-wavelength visible light stimulates low-level infrared in most surfaces. However, IR is the main culprit behind solar heating - it's just the most efficient light for generating heat (if that makes any sense...)

Nothing against the effort - just helping to direct it properly...:D
 
fdsa487 said:
Does anyone have any idea how good this would work to cool off 1 master bedroom? The room faces the sun all day and gets super hot. Its even hot in there at night. I want to buy this for one room only. Its $299 at Home Depot. We are renting and they wont let us put in a window a/c unit. Stupid.

Too bad, if you could see the landlords house I would recommend you put mirrors on the outside and aim them at his/her house.
 
RichP said:
Too bad, if you could see the landlords house I would recommend you put mirrors on the outside and aim them at his/her house.

Archemedis' death ray :D
 
Back
Top