6" or 8" long arm

Cherokee1724

NAXJA Forum User
Location
West virginia
I currently have the 8" critical path long arm from iron rock. Seems a little top heavy on slopes, should i go with less lift to lower my center of gravity or keep what im running and add weight below the body and possibly a little wider stance to give it stability ?
 
theres a lot going on here that is probably bad. im guessing youre running 33s on stock axles with a junk lift (IRO, like you said) and cheapo shocks. yes, that will be unstable.

post pics and more info.
 
Im running 34's on 8" wheels
As far as shocks im running the doetch tech with built in bump stops

I was thinking i could add some weight to the axles by trussing them etc. i know that would not be alot of weight but just brainstorming.
 
Lower, unless mudding there really is no need for that much lift.
 
Why on earth do you have 8" for only 34's? Its all about droop. Keep the CG low and only go with as much lift as you need for the tires you run.
 
Im running 34's on 8" wheels
As far as shocks im running the doetch tech with built in bump stops

I was thinking i could add some weight to the axles by trussing them etc. i know that would not be alot of weight but just brainstorming.

with what wheels? backspacing? i'm at 6-6.5" and perfectly stable, but have a LOT more unsprung weight than you, and am probably wider.

like others have said, drop it to 4-5."
 
Origionally went with 8" lift and 37" tires for mud racing, bogging etc. now i just do trails and since i already had all the 8" stuff laying around i added the long arm. the thought was to get as much articulation as possible. I have the 34's because i already had them before this build. Im going to go to a 35 at least at some point.
When i started this build i was not considering COG because ive spent the last 6 years racing in a straight line, ive lost interest in the racing because i just dont have the time for it now.
Now im learning how to build a worthy trail rig to enjoy with my boys in my spare time.
Forums is the only way for me to learn this and get ideas because no one where i live has a semi serious, capable trail rig except for one guy with a tj, hard to get idea's from him
 
If you're gonna play in the rocks on 35's or bigger, I'd go straight to 1 ton axles. People will argue a Dana 30 can be built to hold up to 35's, but a stock Dana 60 will still be stronger and cheaper in the long run.
 
If you're gonna play in the rocks on 35's or bigger, I'd go straight to 1 ton axles. People will argue a Dana 30 can be built to hold up to 35's, but a stock Dana 60 will still be stronger and cheaper in the long run.

yeah this is a feasible option for everyone :bs:
 
Everyone planning to go "up to 35's minimum" should put it in the budget. If they don't, they will spend as much or more over time trying to keep the undersized axles together and still not have axles big enough for the tires you want to run.
 
Everyone planning to go "up to 35's minimum" should put it in the budget. If they don't, they will spend as much or more over time trying to keep the undersized axles together and still not have axles big enough for the tires you want to run.

I think some of you guys forget how far you can go with a light duty xj that's locked front and rear
 
Which is totally true, unless you're running larger than 35's bound up in the rocks. You won't be going far at that point. If you don't have the budget for the axles, you don't have the budget for the tires. You can swap in a set of 1 ton axles for what a set of rcvs cost, so why not if you want to run big tires?
 
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