6" or 8" long arm

[cal]

Everyone planning to go "up to 35's minimum" should put it in the budget. If they don't, they will spend as much or more over time trying to keep the undersized axles together and still not have axles big enough for the tires you want to run.

You're so full of **** your eyes are brown.


We race King of the Hammers with a 400 horse stroker on 35's, and don't have 1 tons...


To the OP:

Lower it to ~4 inches. Go wheel. Adjust height up as needed, but you'll find you probably don't need it.

 

[zachandandy]

When the op posts going up to 35's minimum, I read that as he's probably wanting to run larger? Yes you can build a 30/44 hybrid like some guys do, but when you're not racing and have to pay full price for things like rcv's, I don't see it as a wise investment. I still argue a stock 60 is stronger than a 30 with rcv's, the extra width helps with stability, especially with 8" of lift. But of course you guy race, so your way has got to be the only right way? I've polished a 30, broke it repeatedly, got shit for $ back out of it, and now run a hp44, which I broke a shaft the first time out and spent $800 on yukons the next week for. Anyone who argues that building a 30 is the way to go for large tires is the epitome of full of ****

 

[cal]

When the op posts going up to 35's minimum, I read that as he's probably wanting to run larger? Yes you can build a 30/44 hybrid like some guys do, but when you're not racing and have to pay full price for things like rcv's, I don't see it as a wise investment. I still argue a stock 60 is stronger than a 30 with rcv's, the extra width helps with stability, especially with 8" of lift. But of course you guy race, so your way has got to be the only right way? I've polished a 30, broke it repeatedly, got shit for $ back out of it, and now run a hp44, which I broke a shaft the first time out and spent $800 on yukons the next week for. Anyone who argues that building a 30 is the way to go for large tires is the epitome of full of ****

I'd agree with you, but we'd both be wrong.

And nobody here has said building a 30 "is the way to go". We're saying building a 60 right out of the gate is not the only way to go.

If you need one ton axles to go wheel, you need to learn to drive. Period.

 

[bluejeepkid]

I regularly wheel on a locked 30, with 35 mtr/s. I'd consider my jeep a medium duty rig. Besides ujoints occasionally, its held up just fine for 5+ years.

 

[zachandandy]

I know this is an Internet forum, so reading comprehension isn't stellar, the op posted "I'm going to 35's at least". Yes the 30 is ok on 35's with some work. The at least part means he will likely go bigger. From my own personal experience I'm just trying to save the guy some money in the long run. Run the 34's he's got until he can step up to the tires he wants and the appropriate axle to go with them. Build the jeep for the tires you ultimately want to run, not what you've got on it now. I know many people who wish they had never put a dime into the stock 30. It's pretty commonly accepted that if you want to run >35's(the symbol means larger than 35's, so examples of your 30 holding up to 35's are pointless), you should upgrade your axles.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

And nobody here has said building a 30 "is the way to go"

yeah. I dont think I or anyone else is exactly proud of their D30 build. but it works

I know this is an Internet forum, so reading comprehension isn't stellar

:rattle:

I just cant stand all the 1 ton nut swingers. yeah swap a 450lb full width D60 under the front of your xj. you're set for life and that's all there is to it huh :laugh:

 

[cal]

yeah. I dont think I or anyone else is exactly proud of their D30 build. but it works

You'd be surprised how many people are proud of their 30 builds.

 

[zachandandy]

If it was easy as throw in an axle and set for life, you'd see a lot more people doing it. However, if you plan to run big tires, it will be cheaper in the long run than build the 30, step up in tire size break the 30, try to throw parts at the 30 to make it last, break the 30 some more, sell the broken 30 at a huge loss, then build a 60, 609, 1450, or other larger than 30 front end. I wish I had known where I'd end up before I started, I'd have either saved a ton or have a much better build for the money.

 

[cal]

so that is the answer for you, it doesnt mean you have to tard up every thread telling people its the only way to go for them.

you can completly build a 30 out for more than you can typically find a bare dana 60 core. and then you need to build a rear end to match, buy new wheels, reinforce the hell out of the frame to handle several hundred extra pounds of unsprung weight hanging off of it.

Not to mention how mechnically difficult it can be.. if you narrow the 60 enough to not have your tires sticking way the ef out, it will be too tight to get coils onto it and still have the third member outboard enough to allow uptravel - so you're limiting yourself to 3" of uptravel, or coilovers, or a 68" wide axle.

one tons are a good way to build, but its not always the answer, its not the only answer, and its not the answer for 97% of the people on naxja.

 

[zachandandy]

97% of people on naxja don't run larger than 35's. I do believe in in the naxja FAQ thread, it recommends a max 35" tire on the 30? I'm not sure what you're paying for a 60 core, but there are complete 60's on Craigslist for about the cost of the wj brake swap alone, which I'd consider a bare minimum for braking 35"+ tires. Nobody is arguing any of your points about a 60 and nobody said it was cheap or easy. If you want to run bigger than 35's and not break often, it's expensive. However it is always cheaper to do it right the first time, and the Dana 30 is not doing it right.

 

[0tagg78]

I have a 6" lift with 35/12 r15 dick cepek mud countrys and mt rims with 3.88 backspacing, spidertrax 1 1/4" wheel spacers and stock axles 4.56 gears, manual tranni. 7" tj flares to fit the oversized tire law in Utah that are borderline pass. I have a ton of fender damage and inner fender well damage, but it's pretty much all done now lol! I think since I'm 7" out from the fender on my tire width I'm beyond stock for rollover, 6" lift plus tires compared to 7" out pluswhatever a stock tire sits back inside the fender. Sooo what I'm trying to say is if you want to run 35's keep your 8"lift and put them as far out as you can. You could switch to a 6"lift and try to keep them sticking out only about 5-6 inches. Unless your not to concerned with a little body damage. My opinion is you want to be as low as you can and as wide as you can, but still have good clearance. My opinion is also, why change? for the time and money to switch you could just get another jeep and have two one with an 8" lift and one with 6", then sell the one you like the least.

 

[muddypunk]

I love how you can ask a Question on here and it turns into a DOUCHE pissing contest :bawl:and no one bothered to answer him well most people anyway lower you rig regaurdless of tires or diff get new wheels if your feeling tippy but most of all go out and spend 5000 grand :roflmaon building a set of 60's that should last a lifetime

 

[wreckedxj]

I have ran stock axles with 31s, i have ran stock axles on 35s with a 4.5 inch lift and long arms, I have ran an 8.8 and dana 44 front on 35s with a 4.5 inch lift, I had 37s on my xj when i swapped to a ford 60 and gm 14 bolt, I now have 39s, I seem to have tried a lot of the "cool" options,

And honestly I have been considering getting something else to put 35s on and go wheel, 35s have a happy medium of both worlds and wider isnt always better, you'd be surprised where your 35 inch tires will take you. I have a friend on 35s who can drive thru riffle canyon, turkey claw, sledge hammer ect in JV, it can be done.

Imo you should run a decent rear end (8.25 or dana 44 rear ) and build the dana 30 with some chromo shafts and leave 35s on it

bigger isnt always better trust me....

btw if you want to buy a set of tons in about a year or so im going to slightly narrower 9 inch axles so ill sell you my 60 and 14 bolt

 

[Cherokee1724]

I helped a buddy of mine put dana 60's under his 89 xj, lift laws here change all the time so in a short time it would not pass inspection because the tires were out too far so we fabricated flares for it, not long after that they passed a law on flare width so now it wont pass inspection again. If he wants to use it he has to trailer it, i dont want to trailer my rig i want to drive it so a 60 swap is out of the question for me. I plan on stopping at 35" on the tires and i dont go extreme on the trails, i have about 5 complete 30 axles and the same amount of 8.25's for the rear so if i break them i have extras for now and i'll just have to take my chances with lighter duty axles. Im going to play around with my bump stops and possibly spacers for a little width. Thanks for all the advice and when i get it figured out maybe i'll post how it worked out...or didnt