44/9 strength vs. tire size

haha thanks man.
here's it installed, and then the 14 bolt rear i put in with it (another stupid cheap stupid strong axle to build with the ground clearance of a d44 when shaved)
8466947752_a4d7b957e0_b.jpg


8466951492_caef426f32_b.jpg
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
I love the coilovers too. so compact. well now that we're getting off topic what rates/lengths are you running and do you know your corner weight?
Click to expand...
thanks man. did those earlier last year, makes life easier. with axle swaps and tuning, that's for sure.
12" fronts (225/375lbs) and 16" rear (200/300lbs triple rate)
 
Another built 44 front here. Still not sure where I stand with it. I spent a LOT on it (got ****ed over by the guy who had it, long story)... OX, nitro alloys, Reid knuckles, truss, yada yada. Kept it 8 lug to match my d60 out back. I had 33s on an open 30 with 260x shafts and never broke one, I'm on 35s now but I plan on putting 37s on in the future. I don't regret going bigger, in fact, I wish I went smaller. I think I'd rather a polished waggy 44 and super 8.8 put back. We'll see where I'm at in a year or so.
 
Since were a little off topic...

Vanimal, what size tires are you running?
 
XJLI said:
Another built 44 front here. Still not sure where I stand with it. I spent a LOT on it (got ****ed over by the guy who had it, long story)... OX, nitro alloys, Reid knuckles, truss, yada yada. Kept it 8 lug to match my d60 out back. I had 33s on an open 30 with 260x shafts and never broke one, I'm on 35s now but I plan on putting 37s on in the future. I don't regret going bigger, in fact, I wish I went smaller. I think I'd rather a polished waggy 44 and super 8.8 put back. We'll see where I'm at in a year or so.
Click to expand...

smaller as in narrower or weight wise? I know you're running hummer beadlocks. I think 65" wms will be fine for me. no need for me to be wider than the trail
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
smaller as in narrower or weight wise? I know you're running hummer beadlocks. I think 65" wms will be fine for me. no need for me to be wider than the trail
Click to expand...

Weight. I'm running H2 alloys actually, and I'm not wider than I want to be. The width and the rest of the suspension make it scary stable crawling and at speed (also the extra weight down low, my last jeep was a little one), I'm not used to it yet.
 
Vanimal said:
thanks man. did those earlier last year, makes life easier. with axle swaps and tuning, that's for sure.
12" fronts (225/375lbs) and 16" rear (200/300lbs triple rate)
Click to expand...

FOA's? what brand coils and how much did all 4 run you if you don't mind me asking. so you're running spring rates on the higher side. I've read that some guys tune their coilovers for high speed and it still works great at crawl speeds

anyway. back to d44 shit which seems even more insignificant than it did before. anyone know about machine flat top for pass side stock knuckle? (77 f100). I was just going to throw a parts mike arm up there or something
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
FOA's? what brand coils and how much did all 4 run you if you don't mind me asking. so you're running spring rates on the higher side. I've read that some guys tune their coilovers for high speed and it still works great at crawl speeds

anyway. back to d44 shit which seems even more insignificant than it did before. anyone know about machine flat top for pass side stock knuckle? (77 f100). I was just going to throw a parts mike arm up there or something
Click to expand...

Iirc he runs foxes.
 
To my knowledge the factory 5 lug knuckles cannot be milled/drilled/tapped for high steer arms. Try looking into Chevy 5 lug flat tops or f250 Dana 44 8 lug knuckles.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
FOA's? what brand coils and how much did all 4 run you if you don't mind me asking. so you're running spring rates on the higher side. I've read that some guys tune their coilovers for high speed and it still works great at crawl speeds

anyway. back to d44 shit which seems even more insignificant than it did before. anyone know about machine flat top for pass side stock knuckle? (77 f100). I was just going to throw a parts mike arm up there or something
Click to expand...
fox, i paid about 1k for the rears all set up (new) and about 600 for the fronts (used for mockups but never ran, found on craigslist). thats all including springs. i do run them a bit stiff for some gofast, and it still flexes great on the rocks.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
so f250 knuckles will be a good matchup with the RCV's? I wasn't to sure what jeepme was talking about as far as fitment issues go
Click to expand...

The hole on the inside of the chevy knuckle where the shaft gos through is a lot smaller than the ford making installing the rcv's more difficult. I like simplicity and knowing that ball joints dont last forever i would rather run the ford knuckles. Unfortunately they do not have enough area on the stock ones to do a high steer arm so like i mentioned before you would need to go with Crane or Reid racing knuckles.
 
Last edited:
You can run stock f250 knuckles, you just need to have the passenger side machined down and the threads tapped into it for the arm. Drivers side already has it.
 
XJLI said:
You can run stock f250 knuckles, you just need to have the passenger side machined down and the threads tapped into it for the arm. Drivers side already has it.
Click to expand...

^ this, I forgot about the F250 knuckles.
 
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