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4.6L stroker in the works

Your engine compartment is well organized. The blue makes a good contrast between the silver and black. Good luck with the adjustments I'm at 380mi right now doing about the same thing. Any plans on a Dyno run?
 
I will definitely be logging wide band o2 and posting them here. A few dyno pulls are in the plans as are one or two runs on the local 1/8 mile track.

I will be installing my new/used injectors this weekend.
 
I installed the new push rods today, set preload to .020". I purchased some low mileage used injectors off ebay, but they didn't work. They weren't even opening. Have to bitch at someone on monday.
 
Talyn said:
Christiansburg
Click to expand...
I have a cousin that lives down there. He works for ATK. I have been wanting to get down there and visit but overtime went bye-bye in november!
 
We recently did a bunch of work for ATK.

Fixed the fuel level sender issue. The arm on the unit allowed the float to be lower than it should be. I noticed this on a pump assembly at advanced auto. Took mine out and sure enough.. the arm actually had room to drop after the unit was picked up from a flat surface. That was the majority of the problem.. the other part was the design of the sensor itself. On the stock pump there are 40 or so points (didn't count) where the pickup will slide over in relation to gas level. on the replacement there are at most 20 points. Which means a less precise reading.

And once again I smell like gas.
 
Talyn said:
I purchased some low mileage used injectors off ebay, but they didn't work. They weren't even opening. Have to bitch at someone on monday.
Click to expand...

Did you try cleaning them? I let mine sit in fuel injector cleaner over night then sprayed some carb cleaner through them, then some compressed air. I rigged up a switch so I could see if they would open and allow the air through or not.
 
I found out what was causing that lean/bog condition. Some idiot didn't set the correction on the Apexi correctly (me). I stopped the low throttle correction exactly where the lean condition started. I was monitoring the MAP and TPS sensors on the apexi's graph read out (which were normal) and then switched over to view the correction % graph. I saw the correction % drop at the exact point of the lean condition. :banghead: Doh. I'm still going with larger injectors as my fuel trim is still at +35%. At least it was an easy fix.

Other than that it has been running well. Might have a small leak at the exhaust manifold though or the bolts keep loosening up. However, I have had a leak in my exhaust where the down pipe meets the cat and I think that may be causing the exhaust sound too. That is getting fixed tomorrow though. I have about 400 miles on it and I am debating changing the oil at 500 miles.
 
Changing the oil at 500 would be a good idea since your going to have metal particles and whatever else floating around. When I did mine at 500 It looked clean on the stick but not so good after being drained.
 
It had some sparkles, a small crusty chunk that looked strange, rtv. then you have assembly lube and maybe something was not super clean when it was put in, on and on. The biggest thing is the metal during break in you will get some.
 
I meant to do the first change at 500(well 2nd counting the cam break-in), but it ended up being 600 from driving a day or two after. I bought a ~$5 magnetic drain plug from AA from get go and still had a little bit of metal on this past change(12K), so I also recommend changing the oil @the 500mi mark and not waiting. You can also buy magnetic oil filter sleeves for added insurance.
 
600 miles on it so far. Changed the oil using Vavoline VR1 10w30. Engine is still running great, no complaints on that side. That S&B intake has a mean growl at WOT, a lot better than the Rusty's air tube I was running.

I was chasing a header gasket leak for a bit, but it wasn't actually leaking... the flex plate has a crack near the crank... will be pulling the tranny soon. I inspected it pretty well and never saw a crack when I was installing it. And I know I looked. Getting a bit tired of taking it apart... can't I just drive it? This would make sense since the transmission and the roof rack are the only items that I haven't removed yet.

Finally got my injectors installed. Reset the PCM and it starts better and seems to have a bit more pep. The injectors ordeal was fun. Bought one set of the Ford Cobras off ebay ($60 for 8), installed them. It didn't even start with them. Called the company back and they sent me another batch. From the smell of what use to be gas I decided to send them to be cleaned and didn't even try to install them. The company that cleaned them said that all but one were stuck closed.. the other one was stuck open. He cleaned them ($130 for 8) and they are flowing within 2% of each other. Still cheaper than buying new ones and I have two extra and a second set that needs to be cleaned to work.

On another note my exhaust was like swiss cheese. One shop installed my cat back, another installed the cat and yet another welded the header to down pipe adapter in... all had leaks.
 
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i wanna see a video of this thing go!!! lol mines at the shop getting the machine work done. i'm excited to get it started
 
I'll have some sort of videos eventually. Debating taking it out to the track, but form what I understand I need to but a jacket and helmet... a dyno run is in the plans also and I have a pre stroker curve to compare to, so it should be interesting.

I pulled the tranny to replace the flex plate because I had a sound like rod knock, but it was coming from where the crank meets the flex plate. The transmission checked out and they couldn't find an issue with the torque converter with their testing methods. So, new flex plate and bolts, and a full fluid change.
 
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