- Location
- Columbus, In
at least its not a donkey! 
4.6L stroker in the works
- Thread starter Talyn
- Start date
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
Gawd, we're a bunch of sickies..
My point is that its a really clean looking rig with some real power under the hood... looks like a great road trip sort of a beast & thats my thing so "good job!", Talyn
My point is that its a really clean looking rig with some real power under the hood... looks like a great road trip sort of a beast & thats my thing so "good job!", Talyn
- Location
- Columbus, In
That it is! When i get a stroker dropped into mine i am road tripping it to MOAB!
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
Ugghhh so glad I kept those wheels 
Reminds a LOT of you're rig urban yan. Probably just the hood vents though haha.
A few things though.
a.) Pepper spray is for XXXXXXs, use your fist. Unless that's an inhaler.
b.) Those floor mats and peddles make for one intense looking floor.
c.) Your Jeep looks amazing. The entire thing. You've obviously put a lot of time and attention to detail into this build, and well, it shows. Kudos.
Lastly, you mentioned earlier that you blueprinted the entire thing. I'm looking to do the same to my stock 4.0 in the fall. Where would I obtain all the right specs and clearances for such a task?
Reminds a LOT of you're rig urban yan. Probably just the hood vents though haha.
A few things though.
a.) Pepper spray is for XXXXXXs, use your fist. Unless that's an inhaler.
b.) Those floor mats and peddles make for one intense looking floor.
c.) Your Jeep looks amazing. The entire thing. You've obviously put a lot of time and attention to detail into this build, and well, it shows. Kudos.
Lastly, you mentioned earlier that you blueprinted the entire thing. I'm looking to do the same to my stock 4.0 in the fall. Where would I obtain all the right specs and clearances for such a task?
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
It bears a slight resemblance to Urbans.. we have a few similar mods... different directions though..
a) its a little hard out throw your fist out a window... the spray has a much further reach
As for blue printing you can find the specs in a factor service manual for one. Also there are a lot of engine builder sources, one I think is AERA. I don't know if chilton's and or haynes has the specs. I know they are available through different sources though.
a) its a little hard out throw your fist out a window... the spray has a much further reach
As for blue printing you can find the specs in a factor service manual for one. Also there are a lot of engine builder sources, one I think is AERA. I don't know if chilton's and or haynes has the specs. I know they are available through different sources though.
hehe. My Jeep would be a turd sandwich if it wasn't for Talyn's help.
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Damn, that is a really nice Jeep! :thumbup:
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
Ahhhh great I have an fsm. Looks like I'm I'm business.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
700 miles on it now. I have been running midgrade for the past 200 miles without pinging. Its running a bit rich in the top end (like 11:1 afr), but haven't had a chance to tune it yet. Yesterday was fairly warm and I put 100 miles on it that day. It ran well. never broke 210* on the temp gauge and that was coming back from a job having a bit of fun on a back road. After this tank of midgrade is done I am trying regular gas.
I replaced the flex plate and the tapping sound is still there. I have a torque converted on order. One other sound that I have been noticing is a slight tap coming from the valve cover. Best way to describe it is a quiet flutter, which from research is probably the sewing machine noise from the roller rockers. However, there is a chance that these rockers maybe a bit worn from being run on the previous engine. I'm going to be looking into that this weekend. Its not very loud. Its hard to head when you are in the engine bay, but most noticeable from the interior of the Jeep.. but its so quiet that if I roll a window down or after 2200 RPM it can't be heard.
I also have to replace a door hinge pin this weekend. I noticed that I sometimes have to close the door twice and on inspection I can lift the door up with an audible click. Top hinge is lose. Its always something, ehh? Oh.. and I also need to fix that stupid squeak from the back seat... how many years was the XJ in production and they never fixed that latch design so it wouldn't squeak? And now the dealer I get 25% off at is closing down. DC brings the fail.
I replaced the flex plate and the tapping sound is still there. I have a torque converted on order. One other sound that I have been noticing is a slight tap coming from the valve cover. Best way to describe it is a quiet flutter, which from research is probably the sewing machine noise from the roller rockers. However, there is a chance that these rockers maybe a bit worn from being run on the previous engine. I'm going to be looking into that this weekend. Its not very loud. Its hard to head when you are in the engine bay, but most noticeable from the interior of the Jeep.. but its so quiet that if I roll a window down or after 2200 RPM it can't be heard.
I also have to replace a door hinge pin this weekend. I noticed that I sometimes have to close the door twice and on inspection I can lift the door up with an audible click. Top hinge is lose. Its always something, ehh? Oh.. and I also need to fix that stupid squeak from the back seat... how many years was the XJ in production and they never fixed that latch design so it wouldn't squeak? And now the dealer I get 25% off at is closing down. DC brings the fail.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
I haven't ruled the injectors out. It could be just valve noise coming through the exhaust manifold as well.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
I did two runs today to log the AFR. They were both WOT runs and damn it does pull.. even with a lacking AFR.
Definitely needs some work. The richest it gets is 10.3:1 @ 4800 RPM. If I was running boost that would just be about perfect.
I'm planning to get it to 12.5-13:1.
Definitely needs some work. The richest it gets is 10.3:1 @ 4800 RPM. If I was running boost that would just be about perfect.
I'm planning to get it to 12.5-13:1.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Bit of an update. First I had a thrust bearing go bad. So I looked into that and the crank surface for the thrust bearing was rough. I attempted to fix that with 400 to 600 to 1000 grit sand paper. Then I buttoned it up. Immediately after that I had a hesitation/ stalling issue and an extremely loud valve train. That turned out to be a damaged cam with the noses beginning to be worn off on the cam. So I need new cam and lifters. I talked to Isky and I am having a custom cam ground that will provide a bit less torque then the comp cam 68-231-4, more high end, and a quieter valve train. That should be arriving soon. I also sent the crank out to be fixed by the company that sold it to the machine shop. They polished it up and it should be returned soon. I purchased some Lunati Microtrol lifters that are suppose to provide better oil control, and require less preload. There was a bit of concern that they were really only .903" when stock is .904". However they measured .9036-.9038" as do all the other various lifters I have measure. So I am going to run those. The Comp Cam and lifters were sent back to Comp for diagnosis and refund and they could not explain what happened. I think perhaps the cam wasn't hardened correctly. I personally talked to the RMA diagnosis guy and had no insite into what happened. The break in was correct, the spring pressure was good and the oil was good. So I don't know otehr than teh hardening theory. I went with the Isky for the replacement cam because they a) they listened and talked to me (a few other companies didn't) b) they did dual pattern c) they recommended a decent custom grind and d) their ramp rates weren't as fast as the Comp cam.. while Lunati's were faster.. I didn't want a noisy valve train again.
So besides those problems I still had that knock coming from the transmission. Despite replacing the torque converter and flex plate it was still present. I purchased a used AW4 for $250 with 89,000 miles and will be installing that.
Since the hesitation issue was at idle and off idle, while diagnosing it was mostly at idle, replicating the problem. I think that is what saved me having to do a complete tear down and rebuild as the oil filter wasn't in by pass and filtering all the oil. The only metal particles I found were on the side of the oil pan. None in the oil when I drained it and none on the oil pan plug magnet. I'm going to replace the bearings and clean it out as best as I can with out taking it completely apart. The bearings looked good with no signs of contamination as well. The machinist recommended reusing the old bearings but I decided on new ones. The machine shop is paying for the bearing. There is no scuffing on the pistons either.
So besides those problems I still had that knock coming from the transmission. Despite replacing the torque converter and flex plate it was still present. I purchased a used AW4 for $250 with 89,000 miles and will be installing that.
Since the hesitation issue was at idle and off idle, while diagnosing it was mostly at idle, replicating the problem. I think that is what saved me having to do a complete tear down and rebuild as the oil filter wasn't in by pass and filtering all the oil. The only metal particles I found were on the side of the oil pan. None in the oil when I drained it and none on the oil pan plug magnet. I'm going to replace the bearings and clean it out as best as I can with out taking it completely apart. The bearings looked good with no signs of contamination as well. The machinist recommended reusing the old bearings but I decided on new ones. The machine shop is paying for the bearing. There is no scuffing on the pistons either.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Received the Isky cam yesterday... sooner than I expected.
The surprise was that for some reason they cleaner up the shaft between the lobes quite a bit. An unmodified shaft measures 1.265" in the bare cast sections. Where Isky machined it measures 1.08". Wonder what their reasoning is... looks? weight reduction?
Don't think I am going to get to run a break in this week as I am still waiting for a few other small parts to come in and still need to swap the transmission.
The surprise was that for some reason they cleaner up the shaft between the lobes quite a bit. An unmodified shaft measures 1.265" in the bare cast sections. Where Isky machined it measures 1.08". Wonder what their reasoning is... looks? weight reduction?
Don't think I am going to get to run a break in this week as I am still waiting for a few other small parts to come in and still need to swap the transmission.
bwinter1946
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madera, California
I have not read the whole thread so if this has been covered, sorry.
Are you running an oil with plenty of ZDDP or using an ZDDP additive to protect your camshaft and lifters? I run the Redline additive FWIW.
Are you running an oil with plenty of ZDDP or using an ZDDP additive to protect your camshaft and lifters? I run the Redline additive FWIW.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
its not an oil issue
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Just got back from vacation in the outer banks Saturday. I have all the parts so I started to put it back together today. The crank went in fine, all the bearing clearances between .0015" and .002" using plastigauge, snout run out was .0015", flex plate mounting flange run out was .001", and crank end play was .0055". All the crank measurements are in spec. I also double checked for interference and there plenty room around the rods, counter weights, etc. So the crank looks good.
Everything was going fine until I went to degree the cam in. All the events were off by 14*. Isky ground the cam 14* retarded. Even with the adjustable timing set I cam only retard or advance 8*, so if I advanced it it would still be 6* retarded. Which makes it unusable. After work I'm going to double check my numbers then call Isky. Which means I will have to wait another 2 weeks for a cam. Crap... why is it so hard to get parts that work?
Everything was going fine until I went to degree the cam in. All the events were off by 14*. Isky ground the cam 14* retarded. Even with the adjustable timing set I cam only retard or advance 8*, so if I advanced it it would still be 6* retarded. Which makes it unusable. After work I'm going to double check my numbers then call Isky. Which means I will have to wait another 2 weeks for a cam. Crap... why is it so hard to get parts that work?
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