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37's if you have a really light foot, and if you don't mind changing out worn parts that often. And also, carry spare shafts, hubs, tie rods, and draglinks just in case. Those tires are so big that it's very possible for the steering to go bad.
id carry a spare loaded front and rear axle housing - so all that you have to do is pull the u-bolts on the rear and bleed the brakes!
for the front, the 4 bolts at the LCA's and the one TRE at the pitman arm (because your spare front axle has its own steering) and then the one bolt at the track bar, then bleed brakes.
after doing this for 3 runs, i got a complete axle housing swap down to 12 minutes flat!
Jeff Gordon asked me to be a guy on his pit crew after he read about me in Petersons 4x4 and offroad
Me too. I'm real light on the throttle and I yet to break u-joints or axles with my 35's and hp30 with an ARB and 4.56 gears last year and now with my hp44 and 37's this year. Although I now have alloy axle shafts and OX u-joints and manual hubs, detroits and 5.38 gears. I know that 37's are pushing it for a dana 44 so I watch it. I also just wheel cautiously anyways because breaking is time consuming and costly. There is a definite a difference on the road between 35's and 37's but deeper gearing helps out a lot as well and now with a dana 44, you are not limited to 4.88 gears anymore. You can go as low as 5.38s with the hp44 and 5.89s for the regular dana 44 although many don't go lower than 5.13s with the loss in gear/pinion contact.
well I am set up with 4.56 gears warn inner and outer shafts detroit and a high steer kit I have the atlas so even wheeling I can disengage the front. the 37 MTR'S measure 36 so they are not the tallest "37" and I stayed with a 12.5x15. I also am not runnung bead locks so I am lighter than 35"s with beadlocks. I am light on the skinny and am going to truss the 30 and strengnthen the control mounts on it as well possably hydro assist too