- Location
- Hammertown, USA
33's or 35's
- Thread starter YZRacer408
- Start date
2001XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Canton, MI
assuming you mean 4.56s , howevr, I would recommend 4.88s. I have 33s with 4.56s and its very close to stock gearing..not impressive. Especially if you will be rock cawling
GREATWHITEJEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
Actually meant to type 488s . I believe thats as low as yo can go on a D30. .. Im geared to 488 and it plenty low with my set up.
PahlMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Scripps Ranch (San Diego)
Just the bads, or the bads, rotors and calipers needed? I already buy high quality ceramic pads. And I think my rear drums are not perfectly adjusted (are they ever?). Thanks! I've been hearing good things about Blackmagic on this site. EDIT: I will just call him like you recommended and get first hand answers! Just found his number!
Oh and I'm on 35's with 4.56 and I wish I had 4.88's or 5.13's. I didn't choose these gears though. Just my opinion...I do lots of rock crawling and only drive 3 miles to work.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I'd at minimum do pads and rotors. They tend to work better if you break them in together. If you don't know when the last time you replaced your calipers are, best to go ahead and just do it now.
I have three jeeps with Black Magic brakes on them, 1 I did just pads, the other two got teh entire setup at once. It does make a big difference, although just pads was probably a 15-20% improvement over the EBC Yellow pads I ran before.
I have three jeeps with Black Magic brakes on them, 1 I did just pads, the other two got teh entire setup at once. It does make a big difference, although just pads was probably a 15-20% improvement over the EBC Yellow pads I ran before.
clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
If your going to put 4.88's in a Dana30 make sure that you truss it(especially with a locker). 4.88's in a small 30 housing it creates lots of deflection in the housing.
Brent T
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glendale, AZ
I'd just run the 33's if it was mine, especially with the D30. You're only gaining an inch of clearance by going 35's and your axles will thank you for it. Everybody wants 35's, 90% only because they think it's cool, not because they actually need them. If you're in the other 10% then go for it, but there are other mods I'd do first. I'm on 32's and can get most places the bigger rigs can and at least if I can't make it, I have an excuse.
X E Ryder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
+1 ^That is a good point. How much time do you spend off road, on trails, rocks, on road, highway driving, windy mountain road driving? Would be good to weigh that out. I drew the line at 5" lift, bush flat cutout flares and 33's and it all works properly. I drive it to work up a mountain every day and it also does great for expedition runs and camping.
Definitely take up the offer to check out the rigs with 35's on now. Going 35's is a committment IMO. Consider maybe you'll need proper lift, stops, gears, truss/tube/moly axles, steering system, trackbar relocate, e-brake cables, brake effectiveness, healthy fender trim... etc. Lots of things crawl out of the wood work to get 35's done right.
YZRacer408
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mission Veijo
looks like ill be running some grabber red lable 33's until i have everything i want done finished which will be a work in progress on my budget.
whisky_grip
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, CO
I'm running 35's w/ 4.56's, D30 Front, Ford 8.8 rear and ARB's and it wasnt that much to get everything set-up. Did have to trim quite a bit out of the fenders, added bumps and new steering but still on stock front discs and since i have the 8.8 rear im running discs in the back as well so braking is pretty good. I have plenty of power, especially considering i am a mile above SL. But as everyone as stated here, it takes time and money to get it set-up right.