barillms
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Eastern Ohio baby!
hey guys, I wanted to post this on here to see what I should do.
I built a beefy long arm crossmember with intentions to build a new Y link radius arm front suspension. Then the guts on pirate talked me into doing a 3 link and I went for it.
My LCAs are 39" long 2" square, and my upper is 31" and I wanted to mount it on the drivers side because there's a bit more room there & also, I built a truss... So I want to use it. There isn't much room to build a bracket on my crossmember because the driveshaft.. and I might be able to squeeze a bracket between the yoke & the transmission, but the transfer case linkage is in the way.. and I really don't want to try to move it.
My solution was a unique one, it was the perfect location for my link geometry.. And it also fit the length of my upper and was clear of any obstructions, so I went with an idea I had... And honestly it tubed out exactly as I visioned.
I build a 1/4 plate that conforms to side of the transmission tunnel, and build a bracket that mounts to this plate & protrudes through a hole in the floor from the cab. This plate is welded to the tunnel and bolts using an inner plate that sandwiches the unibody material between two 1/4" plates.. And bolts with 10 bolts and locknuts on the inside. Here are some pics:
Plate position while building, 8" wide x 6" high:
This is an unfinished pic of the bracket & outer plate, I added two triangular gussets on top the bracket reinforcing the attachment tonthe plate:
The bracket goes through the hole in the tranny tunnel and the plate will be welded with large tacks around the perimeter. There will be 10 1/2" bolt holes also drilled around the edge where the bolts will tighten against an inner plate sandwiching the sheet steel between the two heavy plates:
The inner plate I didnt take a photo of before install.. It's a frame, also 6x8" conforming to the shape of the tranny tunnel with the center cut out so it can slip over the bracket & then tightens down with 10 all steel lock nuts. Remember the outer plate is welded to the floor.. And bolts to this plate. Once tightened down & threadlocked.. It really created a strong & solid bracket mount fir my upper control arm in my 3 link:
From the front.. You can see the gussets on top the bracket in this pic. I hopped black RTV around the edge to seal it up.. And on the nuts to keep them from vibrating loose:
Here's a final top view. Again I sealed the edge.. This is a permanent fixture, so it will bedlinered over:
The Deal:
I thought this was an ok solution, but in my build thread on Pirate.. It's getting beat up pretty bad. I assure you this mount is very strong and I really want to use it.
People seem to think the unibody will rip apart? They think the floor will tear and be dangerous. The push & pull link forces are parallel with the sheetmetal..
I don't know what to do?
DO YOU guts think this will work?
Please don't put it down... Just let me know some honest feedback and advice. I'm not an engineer. Thanks
I built a beefy long arm crossmember with intentions to build a new Y link radius arm front suspension. Then the guts on pirate talked me into doing a 3 link and I went for it.
My LCAs are 39" long 2" square, and my upper is 31" and I wanted to mount it on the drivers side because there's a bit more room there & also, I built a truss... So I want to use it. There isn't much room to build a bracket on my crossmember because the driveshaft.. and I might be able to squeeze a bracket between the yoke & the transmission, but the transfer case linkage is in the way.. and I really don't want to try to move it.
My solution was a unique one, it was the perfect location for my link geometry.. And it also fit the length of my upper and was clear of any obstructions, so I went with an idea I had... And honestly it tubed out exactly as I visioned.
I build a 1/4 plate that conforms to side of the transmission tunnel, and build a bracket that mounts to this plate & protrudes through a hole in the floor from the cab. This plate is welded to the tunnel and bolts using an inner plate that sandwiches the unibody material between two 1/4" plates.. And bolts with 10 bolts and locknuts on the inside. Here are some pics:
Plate position while building, 8" wide x 6" high:
This is an unfinished pic of the bracket & outer plate, I added two triangular gussets on top the bracket reinforcing the attachment tonthe plate:
The bracket goes through the hole in the tranny tunnel and the plate will be welded with large tacks around the perimeter. There will be 10 1/2" bolt holes also drilled around the edge where the bolts will tighten against an inner plate sandwiching the sheet steel between the two heavy plates:
The inner plate I didnt take a photo of before install.. It's a frame, also 6x8" conforming to the shape of the tranny tunnel with the center cut out so it can slip over the bracket & then tightens down with 10 all steel lock nuts. Remember the outer plate is welded to the floor.. And bolts to this plate. Once tightened down & threadlocked.. It really created a strong & solid bracket mount fir my upper control arm in my 3 link:
From the front.. You can see the gussets on top the bracket in this pic. I hopped black RTV around the edge to seal it up.. And on the nuts to keep them from vibrating loose:
Here's a final top view. Again I sealed the edge.. This is a permanent fixture, so it will bedlinered over:
The Deal:
I thought this was an ok solution, but in my build thread on Pirate.. It's getting beat up pretty bad. I assure you this mount is very strong and I really want to use it.
People seem to think the unibody will rip apart? They think the floor will tear and be dangerous. The push & pull link forces are parallel with the sheetmetal..
I don't know what to do?
DO YOU guts think this will work?
Please don't put it down... Just let me know some honest feedback and advice. I'm not an engineer. Thanks