3 link long arms

Gary E

NAXJA Member #687
Location
Elk Grove CA
Whats the consensus and does anyone have any experience with running a RE longarm type setup, (same as claytons and rustys) with just one upper arm, like just running the upper to the pumpkin and not running an upper arm to the other side by the vac disco?

when the two uppers are used I know in flex situations they will fight each other and if rubber bushings aren't used something will give. Also I think Andy has to replace rubber bushings every year or so.

PS when I say upper I mean the link that mounts from the lower long arm to the mount on the axle where the upper control arms used to connect.
 
I'm actually running that right now. I have to work one of the bugs out though. My mount for the upper on the long arm its self is making the whole arm piviot and changing the pinion angle and caster but that was a screw up on my part. I wish i had time to fix it so i can truly see how well it drives. but as for flex its unreal and enuf that i had to put extended bumpstops on it so that the RK 6in coils wouldn't fall off the towers.
 
Well, I think it's totally doable, but I would replace all rubber bushings with a good quality poly material. Trying to run one upper with rubber stuff is going to add too much flex to the system and create some sloppy handling under braking.

Actually, my "rubbers" have lasted three years, but they are done for right now. Need to change them out ASAP.

CRASH
 
Also, I would run a couple of heim joints on the remaining upper arm, to increase stiffnes even more.

My buggy is getting RE spherical bearings on each end of the lower arms, and two heims on the single upper arm.

CRASH
 
I agree with andy.

I'd use poly or rubber for a pair of links, but if you wanna run one upper, I'd suggest a "hard link".

that's what I be runnin'.......no rubber, no poly, all johnnies and heims, and running one upper on my passenger side.
 
I run TREs and incorporated a locking feature. It's the shizzy fo sho. Massive flex on the trail and tighter than running swaybars (which I don't have) on the street.
 
I think he's runnin a 44(no pumpkin mount),easy to add on the passenger side!
 
Be careful, though. While easier to do, adding the top link to the passeneger side of a driver's side drop axle has the potential for a much more drastic pinion angle when the driver's side droops and the passenger side is compressed. You won't experience this nearly as much (if at all) with the top link on the driver's side.
 
passenger side cause my tracbar mount is tied into the passenger side upper, making it many more times stronger than the drivers side upper mount.

Arm4.JPG


yeah, I know, ya can't see the tracbar mount in this pic anyway.....
 
Do you happen to have another picture with the track bar bracket? Looks like some damn fine radius arm brackets, too. I like!
 
Beezil said:
passenger side cause my tracbar mount is tied into the passenger side upper, making it many more times stronger than the drivers side upper mount.

Arm4.JPG


yeah, I know, ya can't see the INNER WELD ON THE ARM BRACKET EITHER in this pic

Are you leaving that for trail repair?

mark
orgs mfg
 
Dude, your axle is on backwards! From those pics, it appears you are using a LOW pinion front axle. What up with dat?

CRASH
 
Farmermatt says it was like, THE THING to do, he says "all the cool kids run EB's" But the low pinion thing is not a big deal, cause farmermatt says you can make an EB axle even better by flipping it around so that it is high pinion and adding a counter-clockwise kit to the 231.

I swear that guy knows his shit.
 
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