3 Link Discussion 2024

[Goose_XJ88]

Alright guys,
I am looking to buy a 3 link kit for the new build and trying to find the best bang for the buck. If I missed one or you think my thought process is skewed, please speak up.
94 or 99 XJ, AW4, 231 w/sye, D30/D44 (possibly eventually JKD44s)

Needs
- Removeable center section (arms stay in place)
- skid plates that tie into crossmember
- High clearance link mounts (don't want them hanging super low below the rails)
- "Bolt-in" (built for the XJ, I'm not doing custom fab)
- No Floor cutting (I'd be ok with floor massage but don't want to deal with thin sheet welding)


I think I have it narrowed down to these 2 kits based on price and features.
Ruffstuff's new XJ 3 link
Barnes 4wd XJ 3 link kit


I've seen the Ruffstuff kit installed in person but I cant find any pictures of the Barnes kit searching google and IG. I commented on one of their posts and they claimed there was a bunch of pics on their IG but didn't point me in any type of direction as to which/who's xjs were running that kit or how far back I needed to look (skimmed back through a few years worth at least.)


Other options I looked at but ultimately dismissed for one reason or another
Ironman Fab (price and wary of upper arm design)
Alpine Peak Precision (Center skid needs rear link mounts or custom fab to support the rear)
BDS (non removeable center and no skid plate)
IRO 3 link
Stinky Fab (Not the biggest fan of the crossmember/skid combo)

 

[RCP Phx]

Since those kits use passenger side upper brackets I would definitely re-enforce it!

 

[Phil]

Needs
- Removeable center section (arms stay in place)

On green junk, I had a (custom fabricated) link mount - skid plate combo for my radius arms. The front end had to be supported and springs removed to remove the transmission or transfer case. It was a pain in the butt:
- in Oxnard, replacing my transmission
- in West Sac, installing an Atlas
- never on the trail

I don’t know how many times you plan to drop the crossmember once the build is done but I would not rank “removable center section” as a must-have in my build, if I otherwise liked the product.

 

[Evan03]

I like the link mounts 2" below tge frame for better angles better ride better control. I find no issues getting through rocks with lower bars sliding over rocks.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

On green junk, I had a (custom fabricated) link mount - skid plate combo for my radius arms. The front end had to be supported and springs removed to remove the transmission or transfer case. It was a pain in the butt:
- in Oxnard, replacing my transmission
- in West Sac, installing an Atlas
- never on the trail

I don’t know how many times you plan to drop the crossmember once the build is done but I would not rank “removable center section” as a must-have in my build, if I otherwise liked the product.

I dont plan on needing to pull the trans or anything but want to make it as easy as possible if I am ever in the situation where it is needed.

I like the link mounts 2" below tge frame for better angles better ride better control. I find no issues getting through rocks with lower bars sliding over rocks.

I understand the better angle argument but since my build plan is a LCG at 3"-4.5" on 33s, I know I will be into the rocks quite a bit. I would love to go flat belly but know thats not possible with a 3 link and an off the shelf kit. My opinion is the less there is to hang up, the easier time I will have. I prefer the way the arms tuck up on the TNT radius arm and the Ironman4x4 Fab kits but neither one of those fully meets what I am looking for.

 

[Ol Blue]

Are you only looking at 3-links and not 4-links? The Core4x4 4-link looks pretty good and is the one I'll go with if/when I upgrade. It has the removable center section as well.

https://core4x4.com/product/crl-j-xj-lak1/?attribute_color=Black&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwbitBhDIARIsABfFYIIbpVNTddC6roKKdFAPL_J86IV_2TSMjN8ZNNCoE87WI_TTcHS5RpsaAjjqEALw_wcB

 

[75SV1]

I went with Ironman front and rear and Dirt Bound. I don't think Dirt Bound would be one that covers the OP's objectives. I did look at Ruff Stuffs. Looks good and for the price. Looks like it can be expanded to a 4 link. The DB can too.

 

[ILLXJ]

IRO has a skid plate, but it doesn't come with the 3 link.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I don't run the 3 link, I run drop brackets for factory style 4/5 link stuff, but I'm very pleased with the stinkyfab.com crossmember/t-case skid and transmission skid.







I think their product actually hits all your checklist.

 

[ehall]

I have SFRs brackets, they're impressive. You can use factory crossmember, or any other bolt-in skid (their xmember skid is deluxe but only for 231 if that matters)

 

[Evan03]

Im at 4"ish now with links 2" below frame was also at 2" with links 2" below frame. The fesr of hanging on them is a hoax.

My links are also raised about 2" on the axle end. My jeep handles like its on rails and runs in tge rocks with buggies on 40s. That no exaggeration.

You shoukd see the shit my jeep slides over. Ive flattend mufflers dented frame. Dented gauged my sliders. Its a knarely little rock crawling beast so much so its nick named the little jeep that can.

The lower arms actually guide me through the rocks giving me a point to slide on.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Are you only looking at 3-links and not 4-links? The Core4x4 4-link looks pretty good and is the one I'll go with if/when I upgrade. It has the removable center section as well.

https://core4x4.com/product/crl-j-xj-lak1/?attribute_color=Black&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwbitBhDIARIsABfFYIIbpVNTddC6roKKdFAPL_J86IV_2TSMjN8ZNNCoE87WI_TTcHS5RpsaAjjqEALw_wcB

Not specifically 3 only but I don't want to deal with modifying the exhaust.
Core doesn't have a skid plate option so it's out.

IRO has a skid plate, but it doesn't come with the 3 link.

I missed that and now its a possible contender.

I don't run the 3 link, I run drop brackets for factory style 4/5 link stuff, but I'm very pleased with the stinkyfab.com crossmember/t-case skid and transmission skid.


I think their product actually hits all your checklist.

noted in original post, im not a fan of the crossmember setup. My concern is the weight of it in combination of having a more difficult time supporting the trans/tcase while pulling the skid. The ruffstuff one is large too but allows the tcase skid to be removed, drivetrain suppored, and the trans section to be removed.

 

[RCP Phx]

When I did my transmission awhile back I just tied off the arms with the springs in to pull the crossmember

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Well crap, I think my whole thinking has been flipped on its head because of the helpful insights and alternative thinking you guys provided.

Now I am leaning towards IRO and StinkyFab with Barnes being 3rd.
Now my reasoning for this is the johnny joint style rod ends available as manuf options vs the Heim only from ruffstuff.
I also like the straighter links of the first two vs the Barnes "spaghetti" upper link.

I noticed that Stinky fab and Barnes have Johnny joints on both ends of their lowers vs fixed axle side for IRO. Any opinions on this?

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Since those kits use passenger side upper brackets I would definitely re-enforce it!

Missed this one, Both Barnes and Ruffstuff use Drivers side upper arms

When I did my transmission awhile back I just tied off the arms with the springs in to pull the crossmember

Which kit are you running?

 

[RCP Phx]

Definitely go with some kind of super-joint and avoid the rod ends. I built both of mine from scratch.

 

[JonnyCat63]

Now I am leaning towards IRO and StinkyFab with Barnes being 3rd.

I can only comment on the IRO 3 link, as that is what I run on my 99. I have bought some stuff from StinkyFab, and are a fan of their products, too.

I do like the IRO 3 link kit very much. It fits and performs really well. Very well built. I also used it in conjunction with their Dana 30 over the axle truss. With that truss, it does have some challenges when setting caster. I found that you must remove the upper control arm in order to adjust it. I can't get it to turn fully when in the vehicle by just disconnecting the front joint, the arm has a bend in it, so it wouldn't turn. And you can't just drop the frame side joint, that joint fits into a pocket and has to be moved forward a bit in order to remove it. So you have to unbolt the front joint in order to remove the frame side joint. I also clearanced the upper control arm bracket on the frame side in order to remove it without dropping the bracket. It didn't seem like to me that you could remove it with the bracket in place. It just took a little bit of grinding. Hope that makes sense. If you had a lift, maybe you could drop the axle enough to be able to spin the upper arm for adjustment. I'm doing it on the ground of my garage, and I needed to remove the whole upper arm for adjustment

I didn't use their skid plate that's available with the kit. I run a 241 TC on this jeep, so I opted to use a skid plate from Rusty's, and just modify it to fit. I've used that same skid on my 97, with a 241. Fairly easy mod. I'm sure the IRO one is great, but that's only for a 231. Not sure what you're running.

Anyway, it's a great kit, but it does have some challenges. Not sure if those challenges were specific to my set up, but that's what I encountered. Hope that helps.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

I can only comment on the IRO 3 link, as that is what I run on my 99. I have bought some stuff from StinkyFab, and are a fan of their products, too.

I do like the IRO 3 link kit very much. It fits and performs really well. Very well built. I also used it in conjunction with their Dana 30 over the axle truss. With that truss, it does have some challenges when setting caster. I found that you must remove the upper control arm in order to adjust it. I can't get it to turn fully when in the vehicle by just disconnecting the front joint, the arm has a bend in it, so it wouldn't turn. And you can't just drop the frame side joint, that joint fits into a pocket and has to be moved forward a bit in order to remove it. So you have to unbolt the front joint in order to remove the frame side joint. I also clearanced the upper control arm bracket on the frame side in order to remove it without dropping the bracket. It didn't seem like to me that you could remove it with the bracket in place. It just took a little bit of grinding. Hope that makes sense. If you had a lift, maybe you could drop the axle enough to be able to spin the upper arm for adjustment. I'm doing it on the ground of my garage, and I needed to remove the whole upper arm for adjustment

I didn't use their skid plate that's available with the kit. I run a 241 TC on this jeep, so I opted to use a skid plate from Rusty's, and just modify it to fit. I've used that same skid on my 97, with a 241. Fairly easy mod. I'm sure the IRO one is great, but that's only for a 231. Not sure what you're running.

Anyway, it's a great kit, but it does have some challenges. Not sure if those challenges were specific to my set up, but that's what I encountered. Hope that helps.

Thank you for the insight. I am currently planning to run a 231 with sye and possibly upgrade to an atlas 4 speed way in the future.

I dont have a lift (its on the dream list) but I figured that getting the front rails on some 12 ton jack stands might droop the suspension far enough to spin the upper link? Def something that I wasn't taking into account with the crazy bent Barnes and slightly bent Ruffstuff link. but shouldnt have a need to adjust the caster very often.

 

[ehall]

I noticed that Stinky fab and Barnes have Johnny joints on both ends of their lowers vs fixed axle side for IRO. Any opinions on this?

You can probably replace the ends with something else, ask him what thread he is using.

I did not use the SFR arms at all; I scrounged up a set of (discontinued) Synergy arms with dual-durometer bushings and high-travel bends. This is with the TNT cross member. I have since flipped the arms to high clearance position (needed to modify the axles a bit)

The SFR long-arm brackets are welded and bolted onto the frame stiffeners. A lot of work but the brackets are not going anywhere ever again.

 

[JonnyCat63]

I dont have a lift (its on the dream list) but I figured that getting the front rails on some 12 ton jack stands might droop the suspension far enough to spin the upper link? Def something that I wasn't taking into account with the crazy bent Barnes and slightly bent Ruffstuff link. but shouldnt have a need to adjust the caster very often.

I don't know if it would droop enough, maybe. It looks like that's a by product of all the lift kits you are looking at. I don't know if having that IRO truss made it a bit harder, it was definitely harder to get the axle side bolt out. It wasn't that big of a deal, just kind of a pain, but once it's done, like you said, won't have to do it again.

Part of the issue with setting the caster, is having a reliable spot to put my digital angle finder on. I just couldn't get a good reading, and I couldn't trust the alignment shop knuckleheads to be able to set the caster for me. My e-locker wire and axle vent tube runs along that upper arm. I can't really blame them, no one wants to work on that without charging a fortune, and they have lots easier work to make money on. What I ended up doing, is trying to set the caster myself, and then taking it to the alignment shop and have them check it. Their equipment is much more accurate than mine. It took me 2 trys and 2 trips to dial it in, but it's all good now, and everything is installed the way I want it.

Looks like you'd have the same issue with StinkyFab or Barnes. I looked at both kits online, and while they seemed good, I don't see much of an advantage over the IRO overall. the IRO kit fit well over my frame stiffeners, too. I don't think you can go wrong with any kit, but the IRO is definitely good.

I saw that the Barnes kit was back-ordered on their website. Maybe want to look into that, might sway your decision.