2001 XJ ZERO OIL PRESSURE AT WARM IDLE

Pulled the oil pan last night, found a few decent little chunks of metal. also a crack where the oil pump bolts on, the one whole flange is completely cracked being held up still with gasket.

There is a problem with the newer oil pumps not fitting flat to the block. This has been reported here and over on the strokers forum, Although the only reference I can find here (see post #7) http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042375

Here it is, complete with pictures from the strokers forum:
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2671

When I rebuild my 2000 engine, I had this problem. Only about 1/16" at the corner of one mount was sitting up above the milled surface. This is not obvious; you have to look closely. I chose to grind the corner off the new pump, since the engine was already clean and assembled. This may have caused your original pump casting to break. At any case, I recommend you inspect the pump fitting very closely before closing the pan up.
 
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There is a problem with the newer oil pumps not fitting flat to the block. This has been reported here and over on the strokers forum, Although the only reference I can find now is here (see post #7) http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042375

When I rebuild my 2000 engine, I had this problem. Only about 1/16" at the corner of one mount was sitting up above the milled surface. This is not obvious; you have to look closely. I chose to grind the corner off the new pump, since the engine was already clean and assembled. This may have caused your original pump casting to break. At any case, I recommend you inspect the pump fitting very closely before closing the pan up.

will do! thanks for the advise, greatly appreciated
 
Thank you MoFo! That Stroker write up is excellent. Don't know if applies to Renix, but I am saving it.

Does everyone weld their pick up tube? I had a friend that had one come off
from a small block chevy in his boat. Makes sense if you do not have a tight fit.
 
The oil pumps are common across the years for the 4.0 Liter. So yes this applies to the RENIX engines. If you have the problem or not all depends on how far back the flat surface was milled when the block was machined. That could vary year to year or even run to run within a year. I never put an oil pan on without inspecting this first, whether I serviced the pump or not.

Does everyone weld their pick up tube? I had a friend that had one come off
from a small block chevy in his boat. Makes sense if you do not have a tight fit.
I don't know anyone that had to weld their pickup tube in a 4.0. This is a really snug interference fit. Your big problems are getting the tube out of the old pump and into the new one. You usually need to get creative with some time in the freezer and some heat on the pump. If it doesn't take most of your strength and ingenuity to get the tube into the pump, perhaps it is too loose. If I had one that was too loose, I believe I would choose red Loctite rather than weld it.
 
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I got the rod bearings pulled last night.. first two pics are those. is that pretty bad??? loosened all main caps and pulled the one bottom bearing, third picture.. how do you go about getting the tops out???? I cannot get them all the way out, don't know what to do.. and the last pic is the cracked oil pump.. look bad? or look like normal engine wear?? thanks guys :huh:
 
with small chunks at bottom of oil pan do you think its something to worry more about or just get the bearings and pump done and put her back together?

Chunks of what?
Have you compared the condition of the main and rod bearing to the photos on the Mahle site I provided?
BTW, your photos did not show up. They need to be hosted on a photo site such as Flickr.
 
Chunks of what?
Have you compared the condition of the main and rod bearing to the photos on the Mahle site I provided?
BTW, your photos did not show up. They need to be hosted on a photo site such as Flickr.[/QUO

I did compare to mahle site. Seems to me like hot short and scoring. I will use flickr and re upload those pics. any advice on how to get the top main bearings out and back in?
 
You need something softer than the crank and flexible. I use a strip of .030" thick plastic shim stock that I have had in the tool box for years. I doubt anything thinner than .025" would be stiff enough to push and .040" or thicker would not want to make the turn. A google search will show many suppliers. It is difficult to cut into strips with scisors or a knife, but this stuff is easily cut with a guillotine paper cutter. If you don't have one availavle, take it to Staples, Office Max or the like and I am sure they will cut it for you.
 
You need something softer than the crank and flexible. I use a strip of .030" thick plastic shim stock that I have had in the tool box for years. I doubt anything thinner than .025" would be stiff enough to push and .040" or thicker would not want to make the turn. A google search will show many suppliers. It is difficult to cut into strips with scisors or a knife, but this stuff is easily cut with a guillotine paper cutter. If you don't have one availavle, take it to Staples, Office Max or the like and I am sure they will cut it for you.

ok sounds good, thanks! im going to try a popsicycle stick and if that doesn't work I will go find me some plastic shim stock. thanks for the advise!
 
The oil is clean! its not going through oil or coolant, that's all great.
Pulled the oil pan last night, found a few decent little chunks of metal. also a crack where the oil pump bolts on, the one whole flange is completely cracked being held up still with gasket. Took one cap off rod and inspected bearing, has a little scoring, other than that its just really worn down. going to check the rest of the bearings tonight and hopefully get to checking the mains. Just deciding if I should just do the main and rod bearings and oil pump or take it and have it overhauled..?


what did u end up doing? how many miles on it?
 
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