Recent content by YosemiteJeeper

Cutting the fenders and ditching the flares would help. I personally think no muffler sounds great, much more manly but thats my opinion. Aftermarket bumpers and lights would be cool too. If you take the doors off in the summer people will think your crazy, but they won't think your a soccer mom...

I really want to see what this could do in a lightweight XJ (Chopped top *caged of course*, doorless, 2wd...) One hotrod badass!! If I win the lottery I'm doing the whole turbo setup and stroking it...until then I'll keep buying tickets :banghead:

I'll go with the XJ and a sh*t ton of design and fabrication. But I'm kinda crazy :gee: lol

What a coincidence, my master cylinder just went out...Time for better parts! Should keep this thread alive, lots of good info here

OK, Problem was solved! Took it to a shop and the guy went through all the checks with me, did this, checked that...ended up doing only 3 things: resetting the timing (my setting was good, he said), Bending the little tab on the rotor back up, and flipping the mounting clamp over. hahaha My...

...When you want to park it in the garage not because your concerned about the paint. Your just sick of clearing out the 2 inches of water after every rain. Stupid door seals...

Come to think of it there were some vacc issues. I thought they were resolved but might've missed something. I'll check the MAP sensor again too. I can't reach the garage with the scan-tool till monday, so I'm kind of stuck till then I guess. I had the battery checked by a friend that works at...

New coil and TPS and changed the oil, still no start. It started firing when I put my foot to the floor, but stopped when I backed off it. Finally, I called AAA to help jumpstart it in case the battery was bad...btw, it did sit on concrete when I was rebuilding the engine. Yet another...

yes there is oil. About 6 quarts 5-30 standard oil...which now reeks of fuel :( I did replace the Crank position sensor, and later undid the bolts in an attempt to push it closer, still no luck. No, I didn't paint the block. While I'm swapping the TPS and coil (more on that later) I have the...

Did a compression test and they were all from 120psi to 130-135psi. Fuel pressure was 35psi after double priming (NOT while cranking. Didn't do that). Put in a new Coolant Temp Sensor. Pulled the fuel rail, all injectors are firing...#4 wasn't at first and they seemed kind of oddly ordered at...

Yep. I put them up labeled and organized and they went in the same way they came out. And I changed to champion coppers.

If I can prove the head failed or the block is bad yes. Parts quality (I.E. hole in piston) is the only other way to pin it on anybody else hahaha I did the tear down and rebuild myself. I wanted to be proud driving through the streets knowing I fixed it. Its trying to start its just not...

I only changed the plugs, but they are gapped right. The machine shop owner said I had a cracked head, so he gave me a new one and rebuilt that for me, said it was good. I labeled everything, the injector plugs are in order. Like I said, the fuel filter but that should help not hurt. I just...

Yep. And I don't think paints going to be an issue on any block or head grounds...lol I'm pretty sure they're all good.

Did some things tonight...I cleaned that metal ground strap really good, took some sandpaper to where it mounts on the firewall. I also played with my multi-meter and got some info on my MAP, CTS, MAT, and TPS. Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor: 4.04V on A+B and 4.94V on A+C terminals. It held...