Rear traction bar info/ build questions

Having chewed up a couple sets of leaf springs; I'm getting ready to build a rear traction bar, and I have a few questions for the gurus who have built these (Goatman, Okie Terry, Timmay, Hadfield, DaffyXJ, BrettM, XJ_ranger, etc...)

I'm running a 9" rear and a cherry bomb for clearance. I have the laser cut bracket that Rocklogic4x4 sells. (just like Hadfield's).

I was planning on using box steel for the crossmember and 1.25" ID scd40 pipe (1.66" OD) and plugging 1" ID scd 40 in a few critical spots then use bushings at the axle side and this so far for the body side (stock cherokee shackle)



I've noticed a lot of people run their traction bars on either side of the diff

My question is: what advantages are there to running the traction bar on the passenger side versus the driver side? And Why?

Will my choice in materials be sufficient?

Any Additional pointers from those who have built them?


If I run it on the passenger side it will have to be far over near the frame like Hadfield4wd's setup to clear the exhaust because the pinion on the 9" is offset it can't fit between the exhaust and driveshaft

If I run it driver side I will have to relocate the evap canister similar to how Timmay did on his build.



I've researched a bunch and I thought I'd share some builds I've read to help illustrate my ideas and put this info together for others.

I like these builds:
Timmay's setup here


and Goatman's setup here


Matt's (Hadfield4wd) setup here
and here

and the traction bar idea thread here that has DaffyXJ's bar here

and His build is here


and the axle wrap 101 thread here

Hopefully you guys don't mind I borrowed your pics to help me visualize my ideas. Thanks ::

Looks like you have plenty of good info on how to build one. Make the bar itself strong enough to handle laying on rocks, my first one wasn't built strong enough and bent. I really like the way the mount is welded to the housing in the last pic you posted, it has extra metal reinforcement on the thinner metal on the 9" housing. That mount takes a good beating, and I've seen the brackets rip out from the housing. On that pic of mine, that mount on the axle didn't work well, it didn't have enough seperation and it totally wasted the bushings. I remade it with a bracket welded to the tube like the other ones and it works well.

The theoretical benefit to putting the traction bar on the passenger side is to counteract the torque that leans the rig to that side, the bar lifts up negating that natural torque lean.

Mine is on the driver side and I dont notice any ill effects from it, just put it where it fits.

thanks guys

found somemore good stuff here
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73263&highlight=traction+bar

and here
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72693&highlight=traction+bar

and of course John Nutter's articles
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/ladbar/

and Jeepin Jason's
http://jeepin.net/photos/main.php?g2_itemId=4431

good tech here from MaXJohnson
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10865&highlight=traction+bar

and some additional discussion here on squat, antisquat and bind with Goatman, MaXJohnson, MrShoeBoy, gearwhine, and Crash
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16044&highlight=traction+bar

got it done! thanks for the ideas


check the build here
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=927699&page=14

Does it matter where the upper hinge part is? IE, close to the tcase output, or the spring hanger. Or does that even matter?