Quarter Mega Trim

On my 88 XJ I am installing a RE 4.5" lift, but I still want to run 35" tires and still have room to flex.

So I am gonna see how far I can trim the quarters without going into the rear door (much!)

First I followed the flare line and marked where I want to end up


Then I made a cut thru both the outer quarter panel and the inner panel. I want that outer edge of the inner quarter panel, to be nice and even, that way when I move it up, I can cut the outer quarter at the dashes line, and fold it over at the solid line, then spot weld it just like the factory does.


Here's how I cut the wheel well on the right side, I found out I would have been better off to cut both halves of the wheel well out, I did that on the left side and it came out much better


Need to trim this piece so I can fold the inner quarter forward to fold into what's left of the rocker


Folding & welding


This didn't look good, the right side was quite a learning experience!


So I made some cuts where the lines are and moved up this lip a little

Then I trimmed a little of the inner door edge and folded the outer panel over


Got it looking better


Then I patched in a filler panel and applied seam sealer, then primed and undercoated


I figured out a better way to section the inner quarter when I did the second quarter. Instead of splitting the wheel well, I left the two halves together and cut like this..


On the outside I again used my flange tool to make a lip and punch holes


Then I started folding that lip over


I trimmed the inner panel until it fit good, then I put it back in and I used a couple of sheet metal screws to suck the corner together, now I can spot weld it on there.


Folded the front the same way as the other side

Left jamb, front edge and door


The right side looks pretty ugly inside The left side looks much better


Left side patch pieces and rear edge


Finished left side


Finished right side

Another reason I need a MIG, this may scare my wife. I don't think she'll understand this one.
Great job learning as you go, congratulations.

Can't wait to see some pics at full stuff.

There are a lot of rigs out there that one side of the trim is much better than the other, don't sweat it!

Ask me how I know!

Jump This said:

There are a lot of rigs out there that one side of the trim is much better than the other, don't sweat it!

Ask me how I know!

Click to expand...

Agreed! Mine are both bad, but one is better then the other.


Thats one of the best looking cuts Ive seen for the 4 doors. Good job!

Took it on it's maiden run yesterday up LHC trail. Going to Moab Friday.

Front flexes pretty good


Rear not so great

New leafs need some flexing to work in a bit then they flex just fine.

Yeah but I think the shackle angle is stopping me from getting any more droop. Droop can be overrated but I'd like to have a little more.


It actually had pretty good uptravel, the left spring got a little bit past flat and arced the other way a little when it was on that rock.

But the right side wasn't going to travel down anymore with that shackle angle.

I'm considering moving that top bolt on the rear shackle forward some, I think I heard about someone doing that here?

87xjco said:

Yeah but I think the shackle angle is stopping me from getting any more droop. Droop can be overrated but I'd like to have a little more.

It actually had pretty good uptravel, the left spring got a little bit past flat and arced the other way a little when it was on that rock.

But the right side wasn't going to travel down anymore with that shackle angle.

I'm considering moving that top bolt on the rear shackle forward some, I think I heard about someone doing that here?

Click to expand...

Opie did it. What about some boomerang shackles?

boomerang or move the shackle mounting point forward a bit... i have to do this on mine... my sitting angle is up and down... rough ride and not too flexy compared to the front which is kinda scary with a lot of trail gear sometimes one th trail

shackle box relocation for sure...

Now you go to Moab...where were you last weekend when I was there?

Jump This said:

Now you go to Moab...where were you last weekend when I was there?

Click to expand...

Still working on it :laugh2:

87xjco said:

Yeah but I think the shackle angle is stopping me from getting any more droop. Droop can be overrated but I'd like to have a little more.

It actually had pretty good uptravel, the left spring got a little bit past flat and arced the other way a little when it was on that rock.

But the right side wasn't going to travel down anymore with that shackle angle.

I'm considering moving that top bolt on the rear shackle forward some, I think I heard about someone doing that here?

Click to expand...

The best way to handle this is to rebuild the shackle box not cap it and lower it. Remove the original shackle box from the frame. Plate the outside and bottom of the frame about 18" forward from the back of the plate. move the shackle mounting hole about 3" forward and up so the shackle will just clear the frame. I would weld a thick walled tube threw the frame for the shackle mounting bolt. I would then weld a nut to the inside of the frame. Next I would plate the area of the floor above the shackle mounting box and on the rear frame area by the bumper bolts. Then bend a new shackle box and weld it on.
Use a 1.5" greaseable 1.5" lift boomerang shackle. Also replace the rear spring bushing with a greased poly bushing but leave the front one rubber to keep a smooth ride.

Doing it this way will help keep the springs up out of harms way, improve ride quality and allow for maximum suspension travel.

Up front you may want to relocate your battery and relace air cleaner box so you can reform the inner fender for maximum uptravel.



Mine is an MJ so I was able to redrill the factory mount for better shackle angle. I have a totally different design that will have the upper mount above the frame so the springs will sit almost tight to the bottom of the frame. This way they will be out of harms way and I can lower the rear of the MJ. I will also be using 63" Chevy springs with a traction bar.

Thanks that's good tech!

I was wondering if I can get an inch or so out of those inner fenders, without moving the battery. That's all I really need it looks like to clear where I rub slightly. I'll be trying that soon and see what happens.

I remember seeing your build where you cut out alot of those inners and i think that will turn into alot more popular mod. I like the low COG possible from that, there's so much more stability on mine with the 4.5" lift and full width and the 35's just slightly rub. With your mod. and the mega 1/4 trim, I think I could run 37's and clear.

Heck maybe (o/k big maybe) a guy could have a 6" lift and run 40's.

You should be able to do some inner fender work and still keep probably the battery there. It will probably require a custom battery tray. My MJ will have 2 bed mounted gel cell batterys. About 38.5" tires will be the maximum size that can stuff that far into the wheelwell and still be able to turn. 35"-37" tires are probably the best size for high speeds with maximum up-travel. My goal is to run 14" travel shocks in the front with 2" of bumpstop extention. Air bumps will come at some point.

IMO a tire doesn't fit if you can't turn from lock to lock at any suspension.

I still have some more work and cutting to do to mine. It will have some more things to do to gain another 1.5" in the front part of the wheelwell. I also have to cut 2" off of my bumper ends and taper cut the front flare ends.

I just started to cut some 1/8" steel so I can start plating the frame since I'm working there. Im also using 3/16" & 1/4" steel plating for the steering box area and eliminating the spacer behind the box. I plan on doing the same to the other side and tieing both rails together better.

Btw this is how I cut my rear quarters on my '95 XJ I had with 33x10.50's with 5" of lift. You went slightly higher and they turned out nice. Mine work hides behind flares. I didn't try to make it pretty but everthing is fully welded.



Front flares turned backwards or MJ rear flares work great. They both have the same size opening which I make the longer using a heat gun. I used MJ rear flares.

That's cool how you split those flares and moved the front up onto the door:exclamati

Makes it kind of a sleeper trim job!

I am gonna have to do this because my rear fenders are all jacked up

87xjco said:

That's cool how you split those flares and moved the front up onto the door:exclamati

Makes it kind of a sleeper trim job!

Click to expand...

People that didn't know better, they never looked twice at it.

I had the front flares raised to the bodyline, but they were 1.5" lower then then the rear flares.

Here are some pictures from back in 2000 of of my '95 XJ with 3"-3.5" of lift and 33x10.5's with cut & raised front flares and lightly cut rear wheelwell and stock flares spead out to match the wheelwell opening.





Here's a newer picture with 5" of lift a few years later.