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Long cranking before starting

Truckedup

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Western NY state
97 XJ 4.0....When it's been sitting overnight and occasionally when warm,it takes a lot longer than normal before it starts.The starter turns over fast,and when it starts the engine runs perfect.No CEl. I have two 99 XJ's that start instantly hot or cold as a comparison.. And,when getting fuel there a lot of hissing when the gas cap is unscrewed,sometimes... I never notice this pressure or vacuum on my 99's...
Any opinions? Thanks
 
Have you tried to prime the fuel lines before you attempt to start it?

The check valve in the fuel line is bad about going out and losing pressure.
 
I agree with Lowrange, it's pretty common in the 97 and later XJs and ZJs. the check valve in the fuel pump assembly goes bad and lets the fuel from the fuel rail drain back into the tank while the jeep is sitting.

you have two options, replace the fuel pump assembly (around 150-175 bucks) or just deal with it.
 
I agree with Lowrange, it's pretty common in the 97 and later XJs and ZJs. the check valve in the fuel pump assembly goes bad and lets the fuel from the fuel rail drain back into the tank while the jeep is sitting.

you have two options, replace the fuel pump assembly (around 150-175 bucks) or just deal with it.

Well,dropping the tank isn't a big deal for me.... This Jeep sat for 6 years before I got it a few months ago. This starting issue came up after a 1000 mile trip to Ohio for LSR motorcycle races.....Yes,I did well,set two ECTA records :greensmok
 
The check valves (there are two of them; one on the fuel pressure regulator and another on the fuel pump) are part of the fuel pump assembly on 95.5-2001 vintage 4.0 XJs. When a check valve starts to fail, it can reduce fuel pressure to a point where an extended cranking time is needed to start the engine. It is a very common failure. I experienced it on my 99 at around 75K.

A good (and simple) first step in helping you troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”

1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for about 2 seconds. Be sure to wait until it stops running.
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above steps 1-3 two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over

If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have a check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the fuel pressure leaking down and the subsequent stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.

Also be aware that a bad battery can give you starting symptoms as well. Have your battery load tested (any parts store will do this for free) if you have any doubt; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.

Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Many parts stores will rent you this tool inexpensively.

*Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood

*Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

*Observe fuel pressure gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)

*Shut engine off.

*Observe pressure on gauge. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.

If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, a check valve within the
fuel pump assembly, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult the manual that comes with the fuel pressure gauge and the Factory Service Manual for your year XJ for more information on this exact procedure, but here is basically how it works:

*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.

*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank – most likely a check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.

**Note. Where check valve is suspect, a quick loss of fuel pressure is often the fuel pressure regulator check valve and a slow loss of pressure is often the fuel pump check valve. But keep in mind that either or both check valves can be to blame.

You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you like, as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going to fail. Perform the “poor mans prime” before cranking to speed up your starts. However, if you have a check valve issue and want to resolve it, it is recommended that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly for two reasons. First, you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Secondly, with two check valves, replacing just the fuel pressure regulator where one of the check valve resides may or may not resolve your problem; remember there are two check valves; the other one is on the fuel pump.

The fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit, fuel gauge float, pickup filter and pigtail wiring harness. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality unit; you do get what you pay for here. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies have been known to fail prematurely. I personally prefer Bosch fuel pumps as they manufacture the best fuel pump assemblies for the XJ. Carter is my second choice. Airtex is my least favorite choice; in fact I will not recommend or install them.
 
following the above procedure don't be alarmed if the pump doesn't prime after the second key on cycle, if the ECU doesn't see a run condition it stops priming the pump to avoid problems if there were to be a fuel leak it's a failsafe.
 
The engine starts clean and smooth despite the longer cranking time so I have to assume the injectors are ok.
I tried the key on and off and can hear the pump run for a few seconds each time.And doing this makes the engine start quickly...
New Bosch pump is coming......and new fuel tank straps
 
I had a long crank condition, was about to drop the coin on a new regulator, but decided to pull the fuel rail with the injectors on it. I primed the pump and sure enough one of them was dripping very slowly.

New injector ended up fixing it.

It ran fine once it started, so dont rule it out yet.
 
You might want to also inspect the evap canister. I had a faulty one with a broken port and loose hose. After replacing the evap canister (rectangular type) located underneath the vehicle with a new one ... seems to have helped with starting issues that started to occur sometime AFTER replacing the entire fuel pump assembly with a new Mopar OEM.

My original thoughts that it was a defective or weak drain back valve in the fuel pump or pressure regulator, as the fuel rail was holding pressure ok.

The evap canister (at least on the later model xjs ) is directly connected to the fuel tank for roll over and to expel gas fumes so they can be recycled into the intake manifold. However I would not think pressure in the fuel tank should or would effect the drain back valves unless one is weak or defective.

I haven't had time to drop the tank again to determine the exact cause ... that started after replacing the original OEM assembly with a new one.

The Jeep now starts usually on the first try but since I am in the habit of priming, I give it one prime to make certain ... I probably should perform the fuel testing procedures again to make sure the fuel delivery system is actually holding the right amount of residual pressure.
 
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I installed the new pump yesterday....The Jeep now starts instantly hot or cold. It could have been something else,but it wasn't this time.
I bought a Bosch pump #69316 for about 85 bucks....When I pulled the pump/sender assembly out of the tank it was a bit more complicated that expected.Had to use the screen filter from the old pump because the filter on the new pump was very different. Working on the plastic tank and parts is more pleasant than my experience with corroded metal parts on steel tanks. The only issue was the rusty stock hose clamps,but they broke easily with a Vice Grips. And rolling around on a creeper isn't exactly a good time for us senior citizens :laugh:
 
Does Bosch make a complete module? I haven't looked real hard but Rockauto didn't show one the last time I checked.
 
Does Bosch make a complete module? I haven't looked real hard but Rockauto didn't show one the last time I checked.

They do, but they aren't widely available. I put one in my 99 a while back.

Actually, EBAY is probably the best source for the entire assembly. Will be in the $300 range.
 
They do, but they aren't widely available. I put one in my 99 a while back.

Actually, EBAY is probably the best source for the entire assembly. Will be in the $300 range.

Yeah, the Bosch pumps for the later year XJs are hard to come by anymore. I went with a Carter not too long ago and it's going good for now.
 
There's a lot complete modules on Ebay from 75-$200. They all claim to have the pump,must be some cheap quality?
The $85 Bosch pump I bought from Rock Auto says made and assembled in USA.
 
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