Waggy D44 + T and T(Trek) axle truss

I know...why would anyone put a crappy ol' low pinion 44 in their rig when they should just go D60/D70/Rockwell?!?!?!?!?!

Well, I did it because I found one in the junkyard for a 100 bucks that had new rotors, new brake pads and 2 good ball joints. If I feel the need for more "beef", i'll pursue the Jana54 modification(search on Pirate4x4) to put A D50 carrier/R&P with D60 shafts, and what-not outters.

Now that i've hopefully doused the fires and chants of "shoulda just bought a XXXXX", i've got some cell phone pix to show how it all turned out(so far). Hope to get it mounted up when it gets a bit warmer outside.

We were a lil' confused on how the LCA mounts were supposed to go on, but reading the directions about 5 more times cleared it up. They just didn't look right the way the directions said. However, when you looked at the Upper control arm mounts you can see that they're raised up. This allows you to get the LCA mounts flush with the axle tube....creating much needed clearance. The mounts on my D30 have taken a severe beating, even with 35's.

I apologize for the OE diff cover. Funds are short and i'm gonna hafta run that for a bit. Any questions/comments are welcome. I'll do my best to not sound like ignorant minded fool, but i'm not guaranteeing anything.

Well, you fortunately do not need to self-smack talk too much around here. I did the same swap with the same truss and have found people to be quite supportive of the waggy D44 swap, even though the HP44 is preferred over it.

I have had it on since Oct 2007, and the only issues I have had is that both shock bolts have broken off. I blame this on two things - one was me experimenting with shock length and them being too long at first, and the other was that the studs could use a little more surface weldage (at least on mine:conceited). I can't see too well, but I think yours may be set up differently anyway. Maybe they would have held up a little better if the shocks had not bottomed out on them, but I still think they at least need reinforcing. The other issue I had was the upper arms contacting the truss in flex (with radius arms). It didn't take a lot of trimming, though. I also had to do this to clear that track bar when mounted in the stock location at the axle.

Good times - enjoy your build and feel free to ask about stuff :eeks1:

BTW, those were very minor issues and I am very happy with the truss.

Floydargue said:

Well, you fortunately do not need to self-smack talk too much around here. I did the same swap with the same truss and have found people to be quite supportive of the waggy D44 swap, even though the HP44 is preferred over it.

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I do apologize. While I haven't been a member here very long, I have searched/scoured the search function for my curious needs. Generally anytime the word "axle" was brought up...it sparked the great Hasta debate. Wanted a Ford 78 non-cast wedge front axle, but just couldn't find one, and when I did it was across the country and too much $$$$. Would've been easier, though. Run the Ford radius arms and pick up some coil buckets and call it a day.

I have had it on since Oct 2007, and the only issues I have had is that both shock bolts have broken off. I blame this on two things - one was me experimenting with shock length and them being too long at first, and the other was that the studs could use a little more surface weldage (at least on mine:conceited). I can't see too well, but I think yours may be set up differently anyway. Maybe they would have held up a little better if the shocks had not bottomed out on them, but I still think they at least need reinforcing. The other issue I had was the upper arms contacting the truss in flex (with radius arms). It didn't take a lot of trimming, though. I also had to do this to clear that track bar when mounted in the stock location at the axle.

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Thanks for the advice. I'll be running this on a stock 4-link setup utilizing RCX drop brackets. I'm curious to see the angle of the arms when installed. I may even need to remove them, which i'm not against if it means acceptable geometry in doing so.

Good times - enjoy your build and feel free to ask about stuff :eeks1:

BTW, those were very minor issues and I am very happy with the truss.

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Thanks again. I hope to keep the "build" to a minimum, and "wheeling" to a maximum. :clap:

Are the upper control arm bushings(provided with the truss)holding up OK?

Another foreseeable modification I may need to do is clearance the truss' track bar mount. I'm using an IronRockOffroad mount that curves down right at the bushing/mount. Some minor material removed and it should be perfectly fine.

What part of the geometry are you concerned about? The lower arms being angled upward with the drop brackets?

The UCA bushings are OK - about as good as it is going to get with the natural bind in the radius arm and stock 4-link setup. So far, I have only changed them once. Within 1-2 wheeling trips, the bolt holes in the bushings were elongated again. About the only way to make this better would be move to a 3-link so you can run a solid joint. With the holes stretched out, it hasn't really caused me any trouble - just a little more twisting when it is under load. It hasn't gone metal on metal or anything.

Looks great to me!

it's gonna fold like a taco as soon as you pull it out of the garage. you should've just got some top loader 5 ton axles. that's really the only way anyone can wheel

Are you keeping the 6 lug set up or are you making the changes to 5 lug?

Floydargue said:

What part of the geometry are you concerned about? The lower arms being angled upward with the drop brackets?

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That's sorta what I was thinking. Right now they are ever so slightly angled down(with the current D30). As long as nothing is at anything extreme, i'll be content.

The UCA bushings are OK - about as good as it is going to get with the natural bind in the radius arm and stock 4-link setup. So far, I have only changed them once. Within 1-2 wheeling trips, the bolt holes in the bushings were elongated again. About the only way to make this better would be move to a 3-link so you can run a solid joint. With the holes stretched out, it hasn't really caused me any trouble - just a little more twisting when it is under load. It hasn't gone metal on metal or anything.

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That was exactly my thinking. I'm wondering if a suitable rubber bushing could be implemented? I'm sure it can, but don't feel like going anything "custom".

Porch951 said:

Looks great to me!

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Thanks!

aintright said:

it's gonna fold like a taco as soon as you pull it out of the garage. you should've just got some top loader 5 ton axles. that's really the only way anyone can wheel

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Finally!!! This guy knows what he's talking about! I mean, my 140,000 mile I6 is easily pushing out 650 to the wheels, so may God have mercy on the splines!!!!! :lecture::worship:

NJblackdeath4x4 said:

Are you keeping the 6 lug set up or are you making the changes to 5 lug?

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Going back to that budget thing... Yes. I will be running a 6 lug wheel up front and a 5 lug on the back. Hopefully once funds are back up i'll spring for a 6 lug adapter on the back and pick up 2 more 6 lug Soft 8's.

I just stumbled upon these...seem pretty cheap

http://billetwheeladapters.com/5-lu...dapter-5x4-5-and-5x4-75-to-6x5-5-2-thick.html

Wow! Thank you very much! The cheapest I had found so far were 100$ from "Adapt-It".

While they're .75" thicker than the spacers I have back there now(on the 8.8 axle), if I get the same backspaced wheel(4.75", instead of the current 4"), i'll have nearly the same width and match the front.

Thanks again, man. Bookmarked that site for sure!

I would use some of that steel sheet in the background to re-enforce that pass side UCA mount, it looks a bit weak.

If it becomes a problem, that sheet will be the solution. It certainly appears some bracing on the other side would be beneficial, but i'm just going to trust TandT for the time being.

RCman said:

I would use some of that steel sheet in the background to re-enforce that pass side UCA mount, it looks a bit weak.

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x2, those mounts look flimsy. If you were running a 3-link I'd be even more worried.

I'd also be worred about the RCX drop brackets. I've seen the braces just pull the self tappers out of the frame. Do yourself a favor and throw a few 1" long beads on it.

MoparManiac said:

x2, those mounts look flimsy. If you were running a 3-link I'd be even more worried.

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Well, the other person in this thread that stated they also have this unit hasn't reported any upper arm mount failures...only bushing issues. The bushings provided with this kit are a really hard durometer which tells me the mounts don't seem to be weak at all.

I'd also be worred about the RCX drop brackets. I've seen the braces just pull the self tappers out of the frame. Do yourself a favor and throw a few 1" long beads on it.

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They are, and have been fully welded since install. I didn't trust those ridiculous "self tapping" screws either. How stupid. They've held up great.

MoparManiac said:

x2, those mounts look flimsy. If you were running a 3-link I'd be even more worried.

I'd also be worred about the RCX drop brackets. I've seen the braces just pull the self tappers out of the frame. Do yourself a favor and throw a few 1" long beads on it.

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X3, I would at least box it in or add a gusset on the outboard side or both.

jeeperjohn said:

X3, I would at least box it in or add a gusset on the outboard side or both.

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I was told by a Trek employee that they have not had any feedback of of the upper pass. link failing. It's built the same on their D60 truss, and they know people running 40" tires with no welding/structural failures. The bushings are the fuse-able link.

I'll take their word for it...until it fails.

I would toss a couple gussets on it regardless... way easier to do it before you paint and install the axle than trying to straighten the mount and brace it on the trail. Your call, though, obviously.

Otherwise looks good! I would obviously prefer a high pinion 44 and will be building one, but I have time on my side in collecting parts because I don't need it yet. If I needed/wanted to move to a 44 ASAP I'd probably take whatever decent 44 came my way first, low or high pinion.

I'll update the thread if it ever fails/bends so everyone can tell me "told'ya so".

T to the B said:

It's built the same on their D60 truss, and they know people running 40" tires with no welding/structural failures.

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It doesnt take axles/tires that big....

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1034809&highlight=truss