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Instrument Cluster - Custom Gauges

Without doing a bunch of searching I was wondering if anybody knew of a method to make the 5.3 run a '93 Jeep Tach? No CAN bus or anything, just an 8 cylinder electronically controlled GM engine running a 6 cylinder tach that used to be run by a '93 4.0 in a Jeep XJ. I'm not even sure if the Jeep computer actually ran the tach or if it just ran from a signal on the engine. Yeah, I know, research is needed, but perhaps someone already has this information? Jeff
 
Great write-up. Found this while searching for custom gauge XJ options. My stock gauges on my 94 suck. Thanks for the pics of ohming out the fuel sender and for providing the details.

Did you ever get the harness work done so you could get the night shot?
 
Great write-up. Found this while searching for custom gauge XJ options. My stock gauges on my 94 suck. Thanks for the pics of ohming out the fuel sender and for providing the details.

Did you ever get the harness work done so you could get the night shot?

KILLER AVATAR!!!!

Back to thread, did u ever get pics of it all lit up at night??
 
Hi, new the board but same cluster problems and questions. I am ready to abandon my stock cluster for after market gauges. Can i completely loose the Jeep PCM too. I have the LS engine swap so I am running a GM computer. I am the red-headed stepchild here as this in my 1997 or about TJ Jeep.
 
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Cluster Rear Defogger Controller

The contoller is in the instrument cluster. Do I need to have it if I eliminate my cluster and use different gauge pack and cluster. What is it, can I sub something in to do the same thing? There is also a "switch sense" "module/?" in the cluster. Don't know what hese do in a functional aspect for the defogger
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I have solved by TJ defogger problem by using a "go around part". I used a smart relay, TRW-BW pn - R3221, a pricey little part btu it will resolve my problem. :wave1:
 
Does anyone recall the wiring for an Autometer fuel gauge. I am using a Autometer 3610 Sport comp model. It is self programing from 20- 280 ohms. I am assuming I ground the stock yellow/brown wire (that used to go to the PCM) C2 -A4, cut and eyelet to good ground. The dark-blue/green (that used to go to the PCM) C1 -26 wire cut & connects to the Autometer sender wire. Thanks for any input
 
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