Yay, new arms ! TnT Long Arms that is.

[Rob D]

This is the area I had to cut off from the driver's side of the belly pan. I just followed the angle of the tranny mount.


You can see in this photo why I had to cut it. An this is with the 1/2" spacer between the tranny and the tranny's rubber mount.


Here is where I put the spacer.


Then I realized that I had chopped off 1 of the 2 bolt holes to mount the skid plate. So I took my 2 chopped off pieces and added them close to the driver's side to give me the extra bolt again.


Giving me this for clearance and bolting up the skid plate.


Anyway, I have to get ready for work, so more later.

 

[rockclimber]

if you run rubber motor mounts and a rubber trans mount, that atlas will still hit the crossmember.

I had some gopro footage of underneath my rig and with an OEM style trans mount and browndog rubber motor mounts my 231 moved about 3" total running through some rough desert. with a lot of washboard.

consider trimming it a bit more.

 

[zachandandy]

What's your toe set at. I find when I get death wobble about a 1/4" of toe out makes it drive able enough to get home an d figure out what the real problem is.

 

[Jeep450r]

What's your toe set at. I find when I get death wobble about a 1/4" of toe out makes it drive able enough to get home an d figure out what the real problem is.

lol im assuming this was meant for Jon's thread..

 

[zachandandy]

Ya, don't know how my phone switched threads to post in yours?

 

[Rob D]

if you run rubber motor mounts and a rubber trans mount, that atlas will still hit the crossmember.

I had some gopro footage of underneath my rig and with an OEM style trans mount and browndog rubber motor mounts my 231 moved about 3" total running through some rough desert. with a lot of washboard.

consider trimming it a bit more.

I'm not running rubber/rubber but this is a concern I have as well. The problem is I think I will have to rework the floor of the bellypan as well as the skid and the mounting pad as well. I'll try it a little and see if I get any interference and go from there.

 

[XJensen]

Can You Clock The Case?

 

[EricsXJ]

Rob, I have an Atlas and am running the older style TnT bellypan. I notched the bottom and think I only had to create less than an inch of clearance. In regards to the flexing, I would highly recommend installing a transfer case brace from TMR Customs. That will prevent most flex from the tranny mount.

And, are those zip ties holding up your Atlas? :dunce:

 

[rockclimber]

Rob, I have an Atlas and am running the older style TnT bellypan. I notched the bottom and think I only had to create less than an inch of clearance. In regards to the flexing, I would highly recommend installing a transfer case brace from TMR Customs. That will prevent most flex from the tranny mount.

the problem with those is that unless you run a matching poly transmission mount and poly engine mounts, you run the risk of cracking the transmission housing or the atlas.

its the same reason you shouldn't run a poly trans mount without poly motor mounts, the engine will want to move the transmission more than the poly mount will allow, the bellhousing will eventually fail.

just food for thought.

 

[Rob D]

Rob, I have an Atlas and am running the older style TnT bellypan. I notched the bottom and think I only had to create less than an inch of clearance. In regards to the flexing, I would highly recommend installing a transfer case brace from TMR Customs. That will prevent most flex from the tranny mount.

And, are those zip ties holding up your Atlas? :dunce:

:roflmao: What, ya don't like my custom zip tie Atlas mounts? They're there just to hold the fuel lines out of the way while I drilled all the holes.

I finally put all the weight onto the cross member and found I will need to pull it off and make more room. I've only got about 1/4" clearance between the bottom of the t-case and the top part of the belly pan transmission mount pad. So, break out the cutting and welding stuff again I guess. I'll get it all figured out eventually. It kinda sucks tho that my dd has been out of commission for a week now. (tho it is cheaper driving our Sienna rather than the heep )

 

[EricsXJ]

the problem with those is that unless you run a matching poly transmission mount and poly engine mounts, you run the risk of cracking the transmission housing or the atlas.

its the same reason you shouldn't run a poly trans mount without poly motor mounts, the engine will want to move the transmission more than the poly mount will allow, the bellhousing will eventually fail.

just food for thought.

I guess I'll find that out (knocking on wood...)

I'm running the TMR brace which has poly bushings, stock rubber transmission mount, and newly installed Brown Dog rubber motor mounts. I don't think it will be a problem.

 

[rockclimber]

I guess I'll find that out (knocking on wood...)

I'm running the TMR brace which has poly bushings, stock rubber transmission mount, and newly installed Brown Dog rubber motor mounts. I don't think it will be a problem.

the brown dogs will help out a lot.

 

[Rob D]

The TMR brace looks good. I'm running the MORE motor mounts with the stock type tranny mount, so not sure how well that would work out based on what Rockclimber said. I'll have to look into that some more.

Can You Clock The Case?

I thought of doing that. But as of right now I think it's easier to modify the belly pan/skid than to drop the t-case, by trial and error modify the tunnel and then get this beast of a t-case back in. This sucker is heavy when working all by myself :gee: I think it would tuck it up nicely though. If this was just a trail rig I would do that and leave the belly pan alone for sure.

 

[Rob D]

Okay, finally done. Actually I've been done and driving it all week. But here are a couple of pic's of the finished (as if a Jeep project is ever really finished) installation. You can see the added drop I made (kinda ugly, but oh well) to add clearance under the t-case. I actually bolted the skid to the belly pan, made the dropped part, then cut it in half to make sure they where the same height so one side wouldn't hang down lower than the other and still maintained the ability to separate the skid and belly pan as it is designed to do. In the one photo you can see a missing bolt for the skid plate. I snapped one of the bolts trying to torque it to the proper spec (65lb/ft). It has been replaced now. But 7/16" 14tpi x 5" bolts are not easily found in the local hardware stores. But, it's all good now.




I went back and cut out a section of the tranny mount pad and the lip that angles closest to the x-fer case in this pic to give me more clearance.


Then I cut out the area between the tab I added (on the left of the belly pan in this photo) and the lip to the right and made the crude looking dropped area seen in the first two photos.


After driving it for a week I can say I am happy with the change. It is much quieter on the road and now I have full turning capability without any rubbing. It also seems to have tightened up my steering and it also seems to come back to center better. I did pull the axle back just a little, but only to try and keep my tires out of the front of my fender at full stuff. I would like to have gone out to PC or Hollister today to test it all out. But that will have to wait for a later date.

 

[Luke95]

Nice setup.
Tell me how it works after you have ran it. I want to know the difference between the 4 link and the radius arms