Looking for some advice/input.

[MSRT74]

I have a 92 and the PO installed a bumper and winch and a hodge-podge of other parts.
I have replaced the control arms, track bar (both JKS), steering linkage upgrade, shocks (Skyjacker Black max(gift)), Moog CC784 coils (gift), and OME CS033RB leafs (gift). and I have a set of IRO 3in coils (gift) in my garage.
I used to be in to rock crawling and that type of off roading. Now, more casual trails and some moderate. I plan to daily drive it once I'm done fixing/repairing all that it needs.
My brother and my friend are saying that I should build it up to something similar to my last build. I have almost all the parts needed to go farther into the build.
Should I stay where I'm at, mild, and or continue on?
Thanks in advance and for tolerating this noobish, very broad question.

 

[Evan03]

Id probly wj steering it keep it low 4.56 gears for 33s and have accutune whip out a set of shocks.

Control arm drop brackets and stock arms are hard to beat on dual purpose rig. Keeping lift at 3 "ish.

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[Tim_MN]

Set a budget, build to the budget. I built my 5.5" of lift with gently used parts and stuff I traded/bartered to acquire.

2 - 3 inches of lift and a rear locker will get you lots of places inexpensively. I went to my first Moab Fall Fling with a 2" budget boost and a factory Limited Slip.

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[75SV1]

It really depends on your intended usage. I don't know what your previous build was. My present XJ is DD. Also, need it for material transport. Its a 2" lift and 31's. I do have Core control arms, and now JKS lower control arms. I also, have WJ big brakes with 1-ton cross over steering. Also, frame stiffeners. A bit over kill for my usage.
I do have a long arm kit on order and plan to go to 3-1/2 lift. More that I have MC 3-1/2 front springs and 3-1/2 OME rear leafs.
On the lift of 2", I do like that I don't have to jump up a bit, like my 4.5 lift with 32's. Also, MPG was a concern or goal on this build. I was consistently at 17.5 mpg. I am not sure what I did recently. I did the cut and fold or comp cut on the rear. Put on the window shields and put synthetic oil in the front diff. I had 19.4 mpg on two legs of my trip. 20.2, 21.2 , 17.4 and 14.5 (twisty roads).
I do have a Ford 8.8 in the rear with LS. Should do OK with light Offroading.

 

[Evan03]

For what its worth id toss a grizzly or detroit in the front first. Locked front open rear will walk all over a locked rear open front rig.
Guess that my opinion from my limited exsperince

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[maxbraketorque]

All depends on your budget and needs. If you have parts laying around that will enhance offroad capability without diminishing streetability or usage cost, you might as well toss those on.

 

[MSRT74]

My last toy was an 84 Toyota pickup 5:1 transfer case, locked front and rear, 4.88 gears. But, it was a dedicated off road/rock crawler.
As @Tim_MN said "2-3 and locked rear will get to lots of places." I think I'll install the 3in coils from IRO and locked. This should get me anywhere I want/need to go without killing the wallet.
And @maxbraketorque said "If you have parts laying around that will enhance offroad capability without diminishing streetability or usage cost, you might as well toss those on."
I'll probably go with 31s, if it's not too much of a slog with 3.55 gears. And I would like to add frame stiffeners. I know it's overkill, but I kind of like that extra support. If I ever decide to go overboard with the build, that will be already there.
Over build it once and done.

 

[maxbraketorque]

My last toy was an 84 Toyota pickup 5:1 transfer case, locked front and rear, 4.88 gears. But, it was a dedicated off road/rock crawler.
As @Tim_MN said "2-3 and locked rear will get to lots of places." I think I'll install the 3in coils from IRO and locked. This should get me anywhere I want/need to go without killing the wallet.
And @maxbraketorque said "If you have parts laying around that will enhance offroad capability without diminishing streetability or usage cost, you might as well toss those on."
I'll probably go with 31s, if it's not too much of a slog with 3.55 gears. And I would like to add frame stiffeners. I know it's overkill, but I kind of like that extra support. If I ever decide to go overboard with the build, that will be already there.
Over build it once and done.

I have 31s with 3.55 now. The gearing is fine for fire/logging road stuff. On the street, I leave the trans in 3rd gear 98% of the time now because 3rd will lock which is nice to have and rpms at 65 mph are around 2600 which works well. I only switch into 4th when I'm going 70+ mph for significant lengths of time.

If you plan to run 31s, 3" is definitely enough. If you have adjustable arms, I recommend pushing the front axle forward a full 1/2". That will eliminate any chance of tire rub in most conditions, and I've seen no ill effects on geometry on my XJ.

If you don't plan to lift a tire, it may be worth considering a torsen diff rather than a locker. Torsen are more expensive, but their streetability is excellent. If only one end is going to be locked (or torsened), I think its a bit of a tough choice which to select. Putting a locker/torsen in the rear reduces the need to use 4WD, but as Evan03 said, it may not be the best combo for 4WD traction. Locker/torsen in the front means that you'll be switching to 4WD pretty much as soon as conditions get a little slippery. Choice could somewhat depend on whether your XJ has NP231 or NP242.

Certainly no harm in unibody stiffeners if done right. Main issue is cost, but if you can do the work yourself, its only the cost of the stiffeners and materials.

Presumably you'll beef-up the steering box and track bar mount areas as well with frame stiffeners and/or steering box bracing.

 

[75SV1]

On gearing, I'm on 3.73 gearing with 31's. I do have some issues with it and some grades in WV. It might also be an issue with the trans not shifting correctly. I did have 31's with 3.55 then 4.10s. On flat land 3.55 were OK. It was really nice with 4.10's. I don't know what axle you have in the rear, 35 or 8.25? You can source a 8.25 with 4.10s for about $200. Its the front axle that might cost about $500 to $600 with 4.10s. I'll probably regear to 4.10's latter. I have another build going on, and those axles will do for initial setup.

 

[Tim_MN]

IMO, Unibody stiffeners are for greater than moderate to hardcore usage. They are next on my wish list, but after 15 years of daily driving and trail use I have not noticed any detriments from not having them. YMMV. That kind of money could be better spent on traction devices or suspension upgrades.


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[75SV1]

My path to using frame stiffeners was that the rear channels were rusted out on the bottom. Rodents had packed it with newspaper and other stuff. For the front, I had issues with DW while my front frame had cracked just behind the steering gear box. Then well might as well have the center section done. I also have M&T inner frame stiffeners.
I think I value the WJ Big Brakes and crossover 1-ton steering more though.

 

[denverd1]

For what its worth id toss a grizzly or detroit in the front first. Locked front open rear will walk all over a locked rear open front rig.
Guess that my opinion from my limited exsperince

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let's just leave it at one locker is better than no locker....

 

[Evan03]

Wait what? Miller locker is also good locker so i guess thats three lincoln lockers tend to also have a decent following

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[maxbraketorque]

Wait what? Miller locker is also good locker so i guess thats three lincoln lockers tend to also have a decent following

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I think he means that there is debate about whether a single locker in the front or in the rear is better.

 

[Evan03]

Most have not had the opportunity to wheel a locked front at all then even less have ran a locked front open rear.

So all we got is he said she said

Then after all the he said she said most only care about the on streer driving manners anyways.

In my opinion. Full locked front is best in all worlds paired with a open rear. Atleast thats what she said and i turned it into my first hand knowledge.

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[jeep ride]

Nobody is right if everybody is wrong .

 

[Evan03]

Depends on what she said, ill roll with it.

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[Tim_MN]

I have done the single locker pick an axle thing on both my CJ-7 and my XJ.

IMO, a rear locker has the best trail performance. The reason why is weight transfer.

My CJ-7 was first to get a locker. Off-road capability is improved. The CJ front axle with locker will get to the top of almost any obstacle, but often the front tires just scratch at the dirt while most the weight is on the open differential rear axle. The XJ was next, and got a rear axle locker. It never has had huge issues with the open front climbing a log or rock wall with the rear axle locked, although now with both axles locked it can walk up just about anything.

Your off-road mileage may vary, statistical sample of only two vehicles.


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[maxbraketorque]

Enjoying locker discussion in this thread.

 

[Evan03]

I picked up a 8.25 open carrier so i can debate this further maybe even try make side by side vids of open rear vs locked rear.
Shit I gota do a open front too.

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