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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

First of all from a Machinist point of view, I see nothing wrong with this set up except for the hardware possibly not being strong enough! I think its a great "budget" upgrade and am going to try it myself. However, after my own research the only vehicle I could find with this yoke was 60's and 70's Corvettes. I am still searching and will post any findings here, also if anyone else finds anything could you pm me or post here!
Thanks
Adam
 
The biggest issue is that these are "slip" yokes vs "press/bind" yokes(excuse the term).They fit "loose" as to a regular yoke that fits pretty tight.Oscar here in Phoenix has been selling this yoke for over 10 years.I tried it (8 years ago)and was never totally happy as it still had minor vibes vs being perfect!
 
Zuki-Ron said:
The RE Hack N Tap is a billet machined piece with a hole in it for the attaching bolt.
The fact that it is one piece, instead of a low grade washer sitting in a recess is that the washer could pull through the yoke under stress increased it dependability.


Wrongo.

Someone once said, "If you don't know what the fugg your talking about.....keep your hole shut!":looney:


IIRC, the hack and tap's "washer" is held in place with a snapring.
 
Thumper will incorporate this mod into the plethora of mods already done. Yes I have one of these yokes, it came out of a wrecked and burnt CORVETTE!! Thanks for a great write up! I agree that anyone nay saying this particular modification must first step outside themselves and take a hard look at..... Themselves. Perhaps after seeing what Aholes they look like, theyll take action to "Spruce up" Their ignorant souls, and learn to appreciate innovation rather than verbally defecating from the outset, before they know whats REALLY going on. And yes, from another MACHINISTS point of view, this mod IS viable, and quite creative. I also agree with the cheap insurance of higher grade hardware, as well. (Heat transfer does exist.) LOVE the stud as opposed to bolt! Very smart!

Subscribed.
 
Thumpersdriver said:
I agree that anyone nay saying this particular modification must first step outside themselves and take a hard look at..... Themselves. Perhaps after seeing what Aholes they look like, theyll take action to "Spruce up" Their ignorant souls, and learn to appreciate innovation rather than verbally defecating from the outset, before they know whats REALLY going on.

Is everyone that disagrees with you an ignorant Ahole or is it just the people in this thread?
I will step outside myself for a second.
I never called anyone a name, I never put anyone down for their opinions, I respected everyones opinion whether I agreed with it or not. Yep, Im ok with myself.
Now its your turn. Why dont you step outside and take a look at what you've written.
 
There seems to be a lot of a-holedness going around lately. Perhaps it's the fuel prices keeping people off the trails.

While looking through some on-line catalogs, there is a yoke listed for a Vete with the same spline count as the NP231/NP242, but if you are going to buy that, I'm thinking you might just as well get the part GoJeep listed.

I don't know, I'll keep researching...
 
Did i miss something? What are you guys looking for? He used the stock XJ yoke and cut it down and popped the cover out of it didnt he?
 
Ray H said:
Did i miss something? What are you guys looking for? He used the stock XJ yoke and cut it down and popped the cover out of it didnt he?

Nope. Per his post, he got a used yoke from some place, that fit a TH350 transmission.
You should read the original post.

I did know a guy who did exactly what you just said, went and got a slip joint installed in the rear DS, and after bolting the yoke to the Xfercase, assembled the u-joint on the vehicle. Worked rather well, but removing the DS was a PITA.
 
From what I've read the Corvette yoke won't work because it's made for using u-bolts around a universal joint, and not for a CV yoke. It's my understanding that the bolt pattern is different. You may want to try bolting one to a front driveshaft before installing it, as it may not work properly. Check this post http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243634578&postcount=36 In this thread http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=930930&highlight=3103-27cv

That might help a bit. Seems someone got the Corvette yoke to work by drilling out the holes a bit.
 
Zuki-Ron said:
I have something you can SEARCH for :D

Wow still butt hurt i see about being wrong on the RE HnT???

and a simple search came up with this................... and now that i post this is see i am not the only one who "searched" and found it....... but i will post the rigs list for ya. turd trolls and "E" thugs :sure:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=930930

80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII
 
PornstaR said:
Wow still butt hurt i see about being wrong on the RE HnT???

and a simple search came up with this................... and now that i post this is see i am not the only one who "searched" and found it....... but i will post the rigs list for ya. turd trolls and "E" thugs :sure:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=930930

80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII

Once again, that is NOT the yoke in question. That is the 1310 companion flange that bolts to the RE HnT flange.
 
PornstaR said:
Wow still butt hurt i see about being wrong on the RE HnT???

and a simple search came up with this................... and now that i post this is see i am not the only one who "searched" and found it....... but i will post the rigs list for ya. turd trolls and "E" thugs :sure:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=930930

80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII

No problem with your correction of my bad info. Sometimes I'm wong, and I move on. There is no need to be rude about mistakes. Unless you are an angel, you make them also.

I looked though that thread. The part it references for the Ford, is a CV centering yoke that attaches to a flange. I also examined a number of on-line catalogs, like this one http://www.rockforddriveline.com/spicer.pdf . This would require having to add a flange like a RE1807 to the t-case. Am I wrong about this?

The people on the thread are looking for a yoke like is listed in the GoJeep article, but we don't want to have to pay $120 for a yoke. They are not looking for a replacement centering yoke for the front DS to attach it to a RE1807.
 
Zuki-Ron said:
No problem with your correction of my bad info. Sometimes I'm wong, and I move on. There is no need to be rude about mistakes. Unless you are an angel, you make them also.

I looked though that thread. The part it references for the Ford, is a CV centering yoke that attaches to a flange. I also examined a number of on-line catalogs, like this one http://www.rockforddriveline.com/spicer.pdf . This would require having to add a flange like a RE1807 to the t-case. Am I wrong about this?

The people on the thread are looking for a yoke like is listed in the GoJeep article, but we don't want to have to pay $120 for a yoke. They are not looking for a replacement centering yoke for the front DS to attach it to a RE1807.

Angel's make mistakes hahahaha. The whole Lucifer thing .....sorry Ron I had too.:peace::peace:
 
I see nothing wrong with the hardware used! The only purpose is to hold the yoke in place, there are no forces acting on it. All of the force is thru the splines and therefore have nothing to do with the bolt or hardware used!
 
I agree with 300$XJ. The hardware used will hold up fine. As also stated before Grade 8 is not always best because it is hardened more than Grade 5 and will not stretch as much before breaking. If he checks the tightness periodically like he should he should get just as much life out of the grade 5 if not longer.
 
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