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*ROUGH COUNTRY LONG ARM* install With Pictures.

does it hang as low as the full traction mounts? it seems like they avoer shot how much room they needed to mount those flex joints - too far down and they easily could be farther forward... or more inward on x member like tnt or ever rustys... claytons and iron rock are much flatter and they still house some big joints...
 
looks like a pretty nice kit. i actually like it.

i have never been a big fan of rough country as every YJ ive seen run their lift has completely mangled the leaf packs, but this looks like a pretty decent kit

starting off the write up by saying you think its waay easier to install then a RK kit seems like a bit of a misstatement. my RK kit required no exhaust modifications, or anything that was remotely a PITA, like the hard to get to bolt, dropping the entire exhaust, etc.

drill 2 holes, mount frame brackets, cut off stock CA brackets, install new arms.....easy as that
 
looks like a pretty nice kit. i actually like it.

i have never been a big fan of rough country as every YJ ive seen run their lift has completely mangled the leaf packs, but this looks like a pretty decent kit

starting off the write up by saying you think its waay easier to install then a RK kit seems like a bit of a misstatement. my RK kit required no exhaust modifications, or anything that was remotely a PITA, like the hard to get to bolt, dropping the entire exhaust, etc.

drill 2 holes, mount frame brackets, cut off stock CA brackets, install new arms.....easy as that

but it requires welding :spin1:
 
the RK was a PITA because i had the treks frame stiffy's. i did not have the best drill bits...welding was not the issue.

if i did not have the stiffys, it would of been so much faster
 
i have wheeled a few places in washington with my drop brackets and have never been hung up on them. but i still do agree on ground clearance is always better
 
I have had rough country on 2 XJ's and 2 TJ's and love them! I purchased the long arm upgrade and Im sure they will be fine. I have a buddy who has a yj with what he call's pro crap (pro comp) and his leafs are fu-cked up bad. You can't beat Rc price or customer service, if you have a problem they don't dick you around they send you a new one fast. I have found a couple things wrong like there old track bar setup with a tie rod end that sucked but they did away with that and now have a double shear set-up that matches the best? And the clearance issue how many people run drop brackets and have no problem? A ton! All the people bashing are all the people just protecting the fact that they spent twice as much!!
 
I got a question about drilling. I went to 16 different stores/hardware stores and cannot find 17/32 or 25/32 drill bits ANYWHERE. I don't want to order online and wait a week for them to ship it. Where da heck do u get these sizes???
 
Try Lowes. That's where I got my something/64ths bit I'll be using to do my hack-n-tap SYE eventually.
 
I tried every hardware store around. Lowes, HD, ACE, TSC, hardware stores, and even the dealership to borrow their bits. None of em had the size. I did find 23/64 at Lowe's like you said but that was it. I called RC about it and they said just use one size smaller and dremel the hole bigger. I guess that's all I can do. There's no step-bits with these sizes either.
 
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worked perfectly.
 
it no longer requires welding...the older kits did, but im running the newest gen 3 link. the only recommended welding was to be done to the frame sleeves for the bolts.

i didn't do this because i figure by the time you put a bolt through that sleeve and torque it down, you dont have to worry about that sleeve going anywhere
 
What size step bit did you use? I guess there's enough room to fit the drill for the holes on the inner side of the frame rail? Seems like a tight spot between the tranny and frame.

It's just a Harbor Freight bit (one of the only things worth buying from that place).

Do you understand how small 1/64" is? Pretty much 15 thou of an inch. In Jeep terms that means it's irrelevant. Just use a step bit and drill your hole out until the sleeve fits through.

When we drilled the inside, we just did our best to line up where the hole should be. It worked out fine. Looking back, I would predrill all the way through the frame with a small diameter bit (1/8") would work. That way you're almost guaranteed to get your inner/outer holes to line up for the sleeve.
 
It's just a Harbor Freight bit (one of the only things worth buying from that place).

Do you understand how small 1/64" is? Pretty much 15 thou of an inch. In Jeep terms that means it's irrelevant. Just use a step bit and drill your hole out until the sleeve fits through.

When we drilled the inside, we just did our best to line up where the hole should be. It worked out fine. Looking back, I would predrill all the way through the frame with a small diameter bit (1/8") would work. That way you're almost guaranteed to get your inner/outer holes to line up for the sleeve.

Well I did some lookin around and found the drill bits (cheap ones but good enough for one time use) online for $7 a piece so I ordered em and they will arrive Friday. I didn't feel like spending $50+ on a step bit or $$ drill bits. They are 6" long so I can drill all the way through once without having to cram a drill on the other side. It looks like i have to remove the exhaust to drill in the inner rail if I have a step bit.
 
I just installed this kit yesterday. I ran into a few problems with the kit and also with the jeep but I did manage to get it installed and drive it. It's riding very nicely, probably better than any kit i've had, even drop brackets.

I had something inside my framerail that required a 1 hour drilling session. What I thought would be a simple drill through ended up being 1.5" thick metal chunk of something inside the framrail that I had to drill through to get the crush sleeves in. I dunno what it was but it's solid and shouldn't be there. The forward bolt for the crossmember uses nuts that are in the frame but mine were rusted beyond use so I left those out and will have to rethread the nuts tomorrow.

The trackbar bracket hole for the t-bar bolt was too small so I had to drill that larger. The bolt included for the axle end of the trackbar was too large for the stock hole so I had to drill that hole larger as well. I really didn't want to drill it larger cuz alot of trackbars use stock sized bolts but oh well, hopefully I won't need any other trackbar.

Overall everything went together well and it rides like a dream. RC nailed the springs/shock combo! :clap:
 
I had some of the same issues as previous poster... A little "customizing" was required on brackets that didn't line up just right. Mostly a lot of little nagging issues that delayed the install. I called RC to ask a tech question and the rep asked how things were going so I mentioned a few issues and I think he hung up on me! I thought they'd like to know for quality control and product improvement, as this kit is brand new. So much for trying to give feedback. I wasn't being a jerk or anything - they asked or I would have been content to say nothing!

This isn't the first time they've acted aloof when I called.Their customer service is foul!! They act like it's an inconvenience to talk to you...
 
I had some of the same issues as previous poster... A little "customizing" was required on brackets that didn't line up just right. Mostly a lot of little nagging issues that delayed the install. I called RC to ask a tech question and the rep asked how things were going so I mentioned a few issues and I think he hung up on me! I thought they'd like to know for quality control and product improvement, as this kit is brand new. So much for trying to give feedback. I wasn't being a jerk or anything - they asked or I would have been content to say nothing!

This isn't the first time they've acted aloof when I called.Their customer service is foul!! They act like it's an inconvenience to talk to you...

I get that alot on the online chat thing on their website.
 
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