Misc. engine bay questions

[crazyoffroader]

Here goes:

1. Does the charcoal canister have to be right side up to function correctly? I am currently running it on it's side, no problems yet, but could there be a problem?
2. Do vaccume operated sensors all have to have separate lines?(i.e. map sensor, a/c vac can, ect...)
3. Why is the power steering pump a problem when installing an HO intake on a Renix truck? I've found many references to this problem, but no reasons why.

Thats all for now, more later...

 

[Pete M]

Doesn't the power steering pump bracket bolt to the intake? My guess is that the two intakes don't share that same hole location. Heck if I know for sure though. :laugh3:
Jeep on!
--Pete

 

[deathwobblezj]

oh i think petes on to something :gag:

 

[5-90]

It do. If the bolt holes aren't in the same place, then it won't work.

This does not preclude getting the later PS pump bracketry and going that route, of course. It may or may not be necessary to adjust the length of the belt accordingly - but that can easily be figured with a string wrapped around the pullys to follow the belt routing. Measure afterwards. For best results, measure with the tensioner (usually the PS pump) adjusted about halfway out.

I do not believe the carbon cannister is picky about location - since all it is is a "coffee can" filled with activated carbon.

Probably not, but I would keep the MAP separate anyhow, and any "vacuum reservoir" leads should probably be isolated from engine management anyhow. Why do you ask?

Did I miss anything?

5-90

 

[crazyoffroader]

Probably not, but I would keep the MAP separate anyhow, and any "vacuum reservoir" leads should probably be isolated from engine management anyhow. Why do you ask?

Did I miss anything?

5-90

I ask because I have a vaccume leak that I'm having trouble tracking down, if I were to consolidate the vaccume lines, I would have less suspects.

I have new questions, The truck has 235k well oiled miles on the engine compartment, and because of this, everything rubber or plastic in the compartment is MELTING!? Is it possible to buy a compartment wiring harness? or should I just replace the wires one at a time (and hope that none short in the mean time)?

What causes this disintigration? Motor oil? I had to replace the vaccume lines because all the rubber elbows were coated in black crud had turned to jello. The truck stull runs 5w30, no blow by (still passes WA emissions) but I think several cover gaskets have failed durring it's life.

The brake booster is not doing it's job, but has not completely failed yet. Could this be causing both my vaccume leak AND a stumbling when cold problem I've had since I bought the truck? The booster didn't seem to be going bad until recently, but anything's possible I suppose.

Thanks for the help.

 

[5-90]

Engine oils are antagonistic to most elastomers (except the expensive stuff, like butyl,) and you'll need to change things from time to time. The wiring usually isn't too bad, but the vacuum crap gets worn - either the elbows and boots start to dissolve, or the damn Nylon lines crack. You can usually find them at the dealer.

Before you go to the trouble to change the brake booster, change the hose, check valve, and grommet. If they work, note the change in your repair log (you DO keep a repair log, don't you?) and go on your way. If they didn't, it's a good idea to change them with the booster anyhow.

Also, go along the manifold sealing surface, and make sure all those bolts are tight - I torque mine down once a year, just for insurance.

If the stumbling problem is present when cold, but it goes away when hot, I say to start with the manifold bolts. When that's going loose, it will be intermittent at first - related to engine temperature. Returque everything, and do a cold start and see if it's been sorted.

5-90

 

[crazyoffroader]

Before you go to the trouble to change the brake booster, change the hose, check valve, and grommet. If they work, note the change in your repair log (you DO keep a repair log, don't you?) and go on your way. If they didn't, it's a good idea to change them with the booster anyhow.

If the stumbling problem is present when cold, but it goes away when hot, I say to start with the manifold bolts. When that's going loose, it will be intermittent at first - related to engine temperature. Returque everything, and do a cold start and see if it's been sorted.

5-90

I have kept both a repair and fuel log for the durration of my ownership of the truck (8 mos).

The gromet, hose and check valve were all replaced when the vaccume system was revamped.

The stumbling is VERY noticible when cold, and will die if the gas pedal is not depressed slowly to start with when in gear (will die if you floor it, or even just press it too fast). The stumbling is always present, but almost unnoticable when at speed and/or warm.

I've never checked the intake bolts, something to do tomarow I suppose

Thanks again

 

[5-90]

The "quick and dirty" method is to use a 9/16" wrench to hit all the bolts (the lower rear ones are a pain.)

The "good" way to do it is to use a 9/16" socket with inbuilt universal joint, and torque to spec. Let me know if you can't find the specs - I've got them somewhere.

If it hasn't been doing this for very long, you can probably torque it down and call it a day. If it's been a while, you might have a burned-out manifold gasket, and you'll have to replace the thing. If you do, PM me and I'll give you some pointers (or just search around here, I've covered it enough...)

5-90