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Bolt In High Pinion Dana 44

Nice write up, and I also like that track bar bracket on the axle, that's the best length I've seen anyone get!

It looks like you were able to do that because you moved the spring seats behind the axle tube. Does this cause any problems with getting the body spring seats inline with the axle spring seats? I would think your control arms would have to be a little longer (or longer brackets fabbed onto the housing) and the axle would be setting pretty far forward if those top spring seats are in the stock position.

Does the housing still clear the frame mount track bar bracket and does the steering linkage clear the pitman arm and draglink?
 
Does the housing still clear the frame mount track bar bracket and does the steering linkage clear the pitman arm and draglink?


Naw.......I'm sure it all hits. :D
 
I also ran into an interference issue between the upper ball joint zerk fitting, and the zerk fittings on the CTMs. I ended up greasing the ball joint, and then getting a threaded plug to put into the ball joint. When I need to grease the ball joint, I will disassemble the axles and put a zerk back in.
006-2.jpg

I ran into the same issue when I was doing my HP44. I also did the same thing, plugged it up after I greased the ball joint.
 
I know when we did the ball joints in my mother's dodge D44, my parts guy had ball joints that protruded a little further into the knuckle and had the grease fitting come in through the side of the ball joint.

I'll have to get a part number for them...
 
My BJ's have always come without nipples... :gee:


Maybe I'm shopping at the wrong places? :shhh:
 
Nice write up, and I also like that track bar bracket on the axle, that's the best length I've seen anyone get!

It looks like you were able to do that because you moved the spring seats behind the axle tube. Does this cause any problems with getting the body spring seats inline with the axle spring seats? I would think your control arms would have to be a little longer (or longer brackets fabbed onto the housing) and the axle would be setting pretty far forward if those top spring seats are in the stock position.

Does the housing still clear the frame mount track bar bracket and does the steering linkage clear the pitman arm and draglink?
Getting the trackbar that long was actually one of the hardest parts of this build. It was a pain to get everything lined up, and not have anything hitting.

The coil buckets are, like you said, moved back so the front edge of the spring is even with the rear of the axle tube.

I ended up lengthening my wheelbase by about 2'', which required me to extend my long arms. The coil will sit pretty much strait up and down. Its not perfect, but its close enough. If anything, they sit at a better angle then they did when I was on shortarms and ~5'' of lift!

Naw.......I'm sure it all hits. :D
Theres always a comedian somewhere:gee:

My BJ's have always come without nipples... :gee:


Maybe I'm shopping at the wrong places? :shhh:
Im not sure I want to know where your getting your BJs. Do you ask for the full service, or just the cheap knock offs?


Ive always liked the American BJs, and not the cheaper Chinese ones. They usually last longer, and have nipples included (in a little bag of course).
 
Im not sure I want to know where your getting your BJs. Do you ask for the full service, or just the cheap knock offs?


Ive always liked the American BJs, and not the cheaper Chinese ones. They usually last longer, and have nipples included (in a little bag of course).

I ususally get mine mail order... Parts Mike give me 'special' pricing, and the last time, he even installed my BJ's for me! :confused1
 
I guess if I was paying for everything right out, it would be about $200? But thats for a full spool of wire and gas tank for the welder, and I didnt use anywhere near that much.

i think i made a boo boo. meant materials as in parts... :doh: my bad.

FWIW, my new BJ's for my 30 came with fittings and plugs too for the same problem.
 
I always figured those grease zerks would self clearance. :D
 
0074.jpg


You do realize that you take the zirc fittings out to install and then put them back in while between the inner C and the outer knuckle?
 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/StarboardM/Front44/0074.jpg

You do realize that you take the zirc fittings out to install and then put them back in while between the inner C and the outer knuckle?

Ha, I was going to say that, but I figured I'd let that go.
 
You do realize that you take the zirc fittings out to install and then put them back in while between the inner C and the outer knuckle?

Ha, I was going to say that, but I figured I'd let that go.

Yes, I realize that, but I didnt want to have to do that when/if I ever have to pull the shaft.


It was a PITA getting those zerks in while it was apart sitting in my garage, so I cant imagine trying to do it under the Jeep on the trail.




Was there anything wrong with doing it the way I did it, other then not doing it how you did it?
 
Yes, I realize that, but I didnt want to have to do that when/if I ever have to pull the shaft.


It was a PITA getting those zerks in while it was apart sitting in my garage, so I cant imagine trying to do it under the Jeep on the trail.

Was there anything wrong with doing it the way I did it, other then not doing it how you did it?

They are easy to put in with a 7mm wrench and it take about 3 minutes to all of them. :dunno:

I recommend to ANYONE BUILDING A FRONT DANA 44 NOT to do this and cut into the knuckle like that.
 
They are easy to put in with a 7mm wrench and it take about 3 minutes to all of them. :dunno:

I recommend to ANYONE BUILDING A FRONT DANA 44 NOT to do this and cut into the knuckle like that.

It would be easy if it was clean, and in an easy spot to get access to. What happens when its night, 35* outside, muddy, and your perched on a hill? I would much rather replace a shaft and joint when they slip out, rather then having to take out the 4 zerks.



You say dont do this, why? Is taking 1/8'' off four times going to weaken the knuckle? Im no engineer, but I fail to see how it would compromise the strength of the knuckle in any way.


Also, the axleshafts themselves would not fit through the knuckle, so I also had to take off about 1/16'' in select areas to get the ears of the shafts through the hole. In your opinion is that not good either?
 
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