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Are Your Floor Pans Rotting?

Are your floor pans rotting?


  • Total voters
    215
86 330,000 km (approx 200,000 miles) little bit starting on the inside front pans. Underneath looks excellent. Most of it still has factory? undercoating, and the rest has a good coating of oil from the last engine leak. Lots of salt on the roads up here in the winter.
 
I think this question could have been better rephrased as "Do you live somewhere where they use road salt?".

In Vermont, I found the front drivers side is always the worst. My theory is that the sanders deposit more sand on that side which removes the paint.
 
I have rust in varying stages on and in all the floor, especially along the seamd where it's spot welded to the uniframe,seems to be real common in the NE, I clean and paint regularly but it is tough to stop completely
 
Makes me feel better that I am not alone! lol
 
My 96 has rust free floors...but my dd 99 sport had rusted out rockers, and the rear passengers floor board had a hole in it. We still got a nice settlement from our insurance after the accident.
 
Must be nice! I'm fixing mine now. Sawz All is coming out soon!
 
Ahhh rot! :)
 
Looks to be about 2 feet long by 6 inches wide on the passenger side. I fixed the passenger side temp for inspection. The driver side is maybe 6" x 3". The rear is about 8x8" on both side. I am cutting out the majority of the front pans and the rear pan. I have new floor pans for the front/rear that I will be installing within the next few weeks :-D
 
Looks to be about 2 feet long by 6 inches wide on the passenger side. I fixed the passenger side temp for inspection. The driver side is maybe 6" x 3". The rear is about 8x8" on both side. I am cutting out the majority of the front pans and the rear pan. I have new floor pans for the front/rear that I will be installing within the next few weeks :-D

makes me cringe every time someone mentions repairing such large sections of floor pan. if it was me i would have cut my losses and given up a long time ago.

are you going for a stock repair with spot welds and seam sealer or fully welded?
 
I had two problem areas. There was a really big hole under the spare tire, where rain had leaked through the luggage rack, dripped onto the spare, and pooled up underneath. There were also some pinhole spots in the front passenger footwell from a leak in the blower motor foam insulation, but these were just pinholes and nothing serious.

Surprisingly the old thing with 339k miles, including 15+ years of Ohio and Maryland winters, is remarkably rust free.
 
makes me cringe every time someone mentions repairing such large sections of floor pan. if it was me i would have cut my losses and given up a long time ago.

are you going for a stock repair with spot welds and seam sealer or fully welded?

I have full XJ floor pans. I was planning to do what we did to my friends XJ after the carpet caught fire while wheeling in the NJ Pine Barrens. We cut out the rot. Put in the new pans. Drilled lots of holes for the pop-rivets, and used marine grade silicon to seal off the pans. I MAY have my buddy spot weld the front pans, and just rivet the rear. I don't like welding by gas tanks :)
 
I have full XJ floor pans. I was planning to do what we did to my friends XJ after the carpet caught fire while wheeling in the NJ Pine Barrens. We cut out the rot. Put in the new pans. Drilled lots of holes for the pop-rivets, and used marine grade silicon to seal off the pans. I MAY have my buddy spot weld the front pans, and just rivet the rear. I don't like welding by gas tanks :)

Rather than rivets, you might consider self-drilling screws. You can get them in various lengths, with 1/4 inch hex heads. If you have a cordless drill with a clutch, it's very quick and tight.
 
Rather than rivets, you might consider self-drilling screws. You can get them in various lengths, with 1/4 inch hex heads. If you have a cordless drill with a clutch, it's very quick and tight.

Work great.

Until you have to work under the jeep...

Robert
 
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