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'92 Eliminator Resto

You'll want to use the 1992 sensors, ignition, and control. This will keep you from having to visit a smog referee. You should be able to use the 1998 head, manifolds, etc. though as the major components are all mostly the same.

Motor will bolt up to trans, I'd expect no drama there. You will need a pilot bushing for the clutch.

Replace the clutch while you have it apart. Also when the engine is on the stand do the rear main seal, oil pan, valve cover, and oil filter gaskets. If you want to go the extra mile pull the harmonic balancer and the timing chain cover and do the timing gasket and crankshaft seal. If you see any rubber starting to spit out of the balencer replace that, too.
 
GSequoia said:
You'll want to use the 1992 sensors, ignition, and control. This will keep you from having to visit a smog referee. You should be able to use the 1998 head, manifolds, etc. though as the major components are all mostly the same.

Motor will bolt up to trans, I'd expect no drama there. You will need a pilot bushing for the clutch.

Replace the clutch while you have it apart. Also when the engine is on the stand do the rear main seal, oil pan, valve cover, and oil filter gaskets. If you want to go the extra mile pull the harmonic balancer and the timing chain cover and do the timing gasket and crankshaft seal. If you see any rubber starting to spit out of the balencer replace that, too.
Click to expand...


I've done all the seals on the motor already, minus the timing cover. I'll take a closer look at the balancer to see if it's okay.

When you say ignition and control, do you mean the distributor and coil, or something else?
 
Lurch said:
When you say ignition and control, do you mean the distributor and coil, or something else?
Click to expand...

Distributor (along with the included camshaft sensor), coil/ignition control module, and ECU.
 
there are different pilot bearings for different input shafts, a new clutch kit will come with both.
Pick the one that fits.

other than that, it's all the same stuff. I'd definitely do a new clutch while it was apart. A new LUK kit is like $150, and is the only clutch I'll use.

agreed that you should just drop the 98 motor in and hook up all the 92 sensors and be on your way.
I believe if you want to use the 98 manifold you'll also need it's power steering pump and bracketry.
not 100% on that.
 
87manche said:
I believe if you want to use the 98 manifold you'll also need it's power steering pump and bracketry.
not 100% on that.
Click to expand...


One more point I wasn't thinking of...

The 98 manifold is no better than the 92. Get a '99 manifold and pump/bracket. :clap:
 
Cool, thanks guys. Luk clutch kit ordered.

I actually already have a '99 intake on the motor, it worked fine with my '98 pump and bracket, although I had to grind the runners a bit to work with my APN header.

Anyway, I'll hope to get the motor pulled and started on the clutch replacement this weekend. Funny, I just realized that I have your engine crane at my house Geoff.
 
I honesty don't think the 99 manifold is worth the trouble.

I'd just stick it back like it was 1992 and be done with it.

edit:
well since you've got it, run it.

and I should clarify. Input shafts are all the same, it's the recess in the flywheel that makes the difference. It's obvious which one you'll need when you have it apart.
 
Mostly covered already, but here goes.

95 down motors have a boss on the timing cover near the advance markings that will get in the way of the 96 and later belt path. Not an issue for you, you're going the other way.

91 or 92 and down ax15s have a small input shaft pilot tip, 92 or 93 and up have a large one. You need a proper pilot bearing to deal with this. Small is approx 17mm, large is approx 19mm.

Various 4.0s from various years and various transmissions, allegedly very confusing, have either 1 inch or 1.055 inch inner pilot bearing pockets. Afaik, they all have the 1.815 outer pilot bearing pocket. The fc69907 bearing/bushing that large pilot tip ax15 vehicles use goes into the outer bearing pocket, putting stuff in the inner bearing pocket is confusing and I try to avoid it because I am easily confused.

95 down vs 96 up, the power steering pump bolt pattern and intake manifold mounting bolt pattern change, so the pump year range must match the manifold year range.

All 91+ fuel rails have the same injector and mounting bolt spacing so swap at will. You can swap between returnless and supply/return style rails as long as you also use the right year range pump assembly, I would just use your original fuel rail TBH.

97.5 and up 4.0s have no gauge temp sender thread port in the head. It is 1/8 NPT if you want to drill and tap it, or drill and tap the extra boss on the thermostat housing to 1/8 NPT and extend the wire about 24" so it reaches. Keep it out of the fan's path.

Swap all your accessories, sensors, and brackets over and it will go in pretty easy aside from the gotchas I've listed. I put a 98 zj motor that had previously been in a 96 xj into my 91 mj, but I also went with a 95 or 96 ax15 (can't remember which, same thing anyways) at the same time.
 
convert to an external slave cyl if you dont have one already. the aftermarket internal ones SUCK.
 
the LUK one doesn't suck and is reasonably priced.

my junk will be staying internal slave. I've never had an issue.
 
87manche said:
the LUK one doesn't suck and is reasonably priced.

my junk will be staying internal slave. I've never had an issue.
Click to expand...
i had at least 4 fail within 2 years. I know the clutch was branded LUK and the slave came in the kit, but i can't say if the slave was made by LUK or not. I had the clips back out that hold in the bleeder tube on two of them. the ends weren't peened enough on the clip. One had a bearing fail , and one just blew a seal out.
Needless to say, i got pretty fast at swapping them out by the time i got rid of the jeep.
 
Finally making some headway on this thing. Got the motor and trans pulled this weekend. Everything went smooth except the CPS wire was ziptied to the harness that I didn't see so I pulled the wire clean out of the sensor. Not a big deal considering I thought the whole engine was going to fall off the crane.

[/URL <http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/scottmjohn/media/20150424_153129_zpsc0pznuzg.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g440/scottmjohn/20150424_153129_zpsc0pznuzg.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL> ]


The old engine leaked oil about as fast as you could pour it in so there was A LOT of greasy dirt over everything thing. Four cans of degreaser and a ruined driveway later I removed a couple inches off grime.

[URL="http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/scottmjohn/media/20150425_132009_zpsvii7z0fg.jpg.html"]

New(er) and old:




Removed the clutch assembly, I looked back at my notes from when I bought the truck in 2013 and the previous owner told me that he had recently replaced the clutch. I have no problem buying a new unit as I'm not trying to cheap out here, but if this one does have a relatively long life left on it I rather spend the $150 elsewhere.

Here are some pics of the friction disc and pressure plate, any way to tell the condition of them? I have no idea how much material is supposed to be there.





 
Can't really tell when looking top down, I'd look at how thick the material is on the clutch disc on either side. Looks like there is still a bit of meat left in it. I'd probably run it if you're on a budget.

At the very least, I would definitely replace the pilot and throwout bearings for cheap insurance while you're in there.
 
If its apart and clutch life is unknown it gets a clutch. Pretty good rule of thumb, Its nice to know you wont have to pull the trans for a good while. And good clutches aren't expensive
 
Factory spec is 0.02" runout on the face of a *new* disc. They do not publish runout on used. You check this by putting the dial indicator about 1/4" from the edge of the disc.

Make sure the pressure plate isn't warped from removal. When tightening alternate bolts, only running them in about 1/2 turn each. User a clutch alignment tool to get everything in place properly.

The 1996 manual (closest one on hand) does not publish how thick the friction material should be.

I would probably be on the fence about replacing it as well. While I want to say just go for it if you're very good with a clutch and aren't wheeling it I could see re-using as long as its not damaged. I mention being good with the clutch because if you're burning it a lot or wheeling it (especially if anywhere near under-geared in rocky terrain) you will accelerate wear.


BTW - You'll be done with this by SoCal Fest, right?
 
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