BIGSLVRXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Des Moines, Iowa
Glad to hear that, it looks so much better with them!
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'92 Eliminator Resto
- Thread starter Lurch
- Start date
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Finally getting settled in at the new place, time to start working on Jeeps again. Pulled the carpet to check for rust...
Sweet, I love native SoCal cars. Only problem is when I put the carpet back now none of the back lighting on the dash works. Not a fuse or headlight switch, thinking i might have knocked a ground loose, haven't had time to check it yet. Annoying. Also, the seats had been switched around for some unknown reason, when I switched them back so the adjustment controls were on the correct sides I found out why. Something is broken in the drivers seat causing my left ass check to slide into the door while driving. Need to fix that.
Replaced the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sending unit so now I have working gauges. The 4.0L has a pretty healthy oil leak, need to replace the OFA, rear main and oil pan gasket. Hopefully since its 2wd it won't be as big of a pain in the ass to get access.
Also picked up a brake booster and master cylinder off a '96, need to swap that out. The brakes are straight up scary on this thing, I've almost ended up in someone's trunk on several occasions.
Unfortunately I've been spending money like a drunken sailor on my new house so fixing the body panels might not happen as soon as I'd like, but there's plenty to do in the meantime including prepping my black jeep for Moab.
Sweet, I love native SoCal cars. Only problem is when I put the carpet back now none of the back lighting on the dash works. Not a fuse or headlight switch, thinking i might have knocked a ground loose, haven't had time to check it yet. Annoying. Also, the seats had been switched around for some unknown reason, when I switched them back so the adjustment controls were on the correct sides I found out why. Something is broken in the drivers seat causing my left ass check to slide into the door while driving. Need to fix that.
Replaced the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sending unit so now I have working gauges. The 4.0L has a pretty healthy oil leak, need to replace the OFA, rear main and oil pan gasket. Hopefully since its 2wd it won't be as big of a pain in the ass to get access.
Also picked up a brake booster and master cylinder off a '96, need to swap that out. The brakes are straight up scary on this thing, I've almost ended up in someone's trunk on several occasions.
Unfortunately I've been spending money like a drunken sailor on my new house so fixing the body panels might not happen as soon as I'd like, but there's plenty to do in the meantime including prepping my black jeep for Moab.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You suck! Seriously though, that's awesome and I wish I could find an MJ that clean up here.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
The seat is really easy to fix and a common thing to break if it's been owned by larger people. Take the seat apart. Remve the back of the seat, set it aside. Then pull the upholstery and foam off. Now you can weld the frame back together. You will likely have to touch up some welds and make some braces.
Brakes - Check the caliper guides, they may be grooved, that will make it nice and scary. When you do the '96 booster compare the pedal rod to yours, you will notice they are slightly different. You can modify the '96 one to be exactly teh same keeping your options open for cruise control.
Brakes - Check the caliper guides, they may be grooved, that will make it nice and scary. When you do the '96 booster compare the pedal rod to yours, you will notice they are slightly different. You can modify the '96 one to be exactly teh same keeping your options open for cruise control.
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cheapcherokee93
<----boat-manche
- Location
- Guadalahabra, CA
i really hate your floors. seriously, not a single spec of rust!
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
So I've been kicking around with the idea of lowering this thing for awhile, but not looking to get a lot of time or money tied up into it. I really like how Gold Cobra's 'George' build turned out, but any changes I make I'd like to be easily reversible (no notching the beam or relocating control arm mounts). So I guess I'm limited to dropping it 2-3" max with those requirements.
So whats the cheap to lower a solid axle vehicle, and what's the best way to do it? i.e cutting coils and lowering blocks vs.?
I don't know jack about lowering things, what else is needed - shorter shocks, steering modifications, bumpstops, swaybar links etc...
So whats the cheap to lower a solid axle vehicle, and what's the best way to do it? i.e cutting coils and lowering blocks vs.?
I don't know jack about lowering things, what else is needed - shorter shocks, steering modifications, bumpstops, swaybar links etc...
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YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
Lowering the rear on an MJ is easy, just get the typical spacer blocks and mount them between the axle and leaf packs. Obviously you'll need to replace the U-bolts. Since the bolt plates will remain in the same place, you won't need to change shocks as you're moving the axle up, but not changing the spring/ride height.
The front is a bit more of an issue. Yes, you can cut 2 coils off to get that 2-3" drop but it does put the upper control arms and axle dangerously close to the engine and oil pan. You'll want to bump-stop things to be on the safe side..... but it will change the ride quality as you will bounce off the stops often.
This is a 2wd Eliminator I had a while back. Cut coils, 2" drop block in the rear.
Dunno if you can see it in this photo, but there was about an inch between the bumpstop and coil retainer.
The front is a bit more of an issue. Yes, you can cut 2 coils off to get that 2-3" drop but it does put the upper control arms and axle dangerously close to the engine and oil pan. You'll want to bump-stop things to be on the safe side..... but it will change the ride quality as you will bounce off the stops often.
This is a 2wd Eliminator I had a while back. Cut coils, 2" drop block in the rear.
Dunno if you can see it in this photo, but there was about an inch between the bumpstop and coil retainer.
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- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I own that one now, drive it every day.
2wd axle beams are cheap, so you could just modify a different one, and save the original if you ever wanted to go back.
Once I get some spare time, I'm thinking that 'George' needs another 2" down. :flame:
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Been a while since I worked on this, mostly because I was getting my XJ ready for a Moab trip and got married, in that order, but finally had some time to wrench on it the last two weekends. Installed a few parts that I had sitting around for a while; Hella H4 lamps and an old Putco harness that I had laying around, a ZJ 28mm swaybar and the master cylinder and booster out of a '96 XJ. The truck brakes and corners so much better now, it's a lot of fun to drive. I'd love to get the Addco rear swaybar as well to tighten it up even more in the corners, but no way I'm dropping $200 on it.
Also been getting around to this for a while. The previous owner painted the grille, headlight bezels, flares and cowl cover black. It looks fine but I'm a big fine of color matched parts and wanted to bring it back to stock. I found a cowl cover in Colorado Red at the junkyard and swapped it out but was having trouble finding the rest of the pieces so I ordered up some spray from automotivetouchup.com and went to town:
Before:
During (I figured out why he painted them, faded and chipped):
After:
Also, I finally fixed my dash light problem. Turned out when I pulled my carpet to check for rust I shorted a wire running underneath the carpet. Nice to finally have dash lights again.
I'll be changing the rear main seal in a few weeks and plan to throw some ZJ rear coils and a modified MJ pack on to bring it a little closer to the ground...stay tuned.
Also been getting around to this for a while. The previous owner painted the grille, headlight bezels, flares and cowl cover black. It looks fine but I'm a big fine of color matched parts and wanted to bring it back to stock. I found a cowl cover in Colorado Red at the junkyard and swapped it out but was having trouble finding the rest of the pieces so I ordered up some spray from automotivetouchup.com and went to town:
Before:
During (I figured out why he painted them, faded and chipped):
After:
Also, I finally fixed my dash light problem. Turned out when I pulled my carpet to check for rust I shorted a wire running underneath the carpet. Nice to finally have dash lights again.
I'll be changing the rear main seal in a few weeks and plan to throw some ZJ rear coils and a modified MJ pack on to bring it a little closer to the ground...stay tuned.
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Ronbo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Marcos, CA
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Thanks. Just a satin base coat. I'm going to hit it with a few layers of clear coat to try and match the gloss of the rest of the body.
- Location
- sacramento
Hey Lurch, I dig the rig. It was good to meet you in Moab. Congrats on the wedding too. you have some big balls for trying that hot tub man. grande webbos.
Rockslut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lincoln, CA
Is there a bend on the inside top edge of the tailgate?? Also, is the title clean? My dad owned that exact truck and put many highway miles on it. Sold it a couple years ago. Had the same dash light issue. Would be funny if its the same truck. I was just thinking about it the other day and was kicking myself for not picking it up when he sold it.
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
It was nice meeting you too Jon, hopefully I'll make it up there to wheel next year. Still haven't run the 'Con yet.
Well this would be crazy, yes there's a dimple on the passenger side of the tailgate and it doesn't quite line up flush when closed on that side. Title is clean, I bought it from a guy in Arcadia outside of LA. He owned it for less than a year and according to the CarFax I pulled on it there was only one previous owner if I remember correctly.
The paint had something called 'Perma Plate' on it, there's a sticker for it in the driver door jamb. It's held up really well. The dash light issue however only happened after I pulled the carpet so that was something I caused.
Was your dad the original owner?
eflores
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Greg's place
sexy jeep
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Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Thanks!
Timely bump of this thread by the way, cough, April ROTM voting, cough.
Anyway this kind of motivated me to start restoring the fender flares that the PO had painted black because its what the OE Eliminator had and I think color keyed trim pieces are sexy. I knew from my headlight bezel resto that they were probably in rough shape and that's why he painted them, but other than some fading and few cracks the one side I did they look pretty good.
Just used Acetone and a rag, still need some touch up in the crevices but it looks good from 20' away.
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Almost a year since the last post:wow:
Finally getting back to paying some attention to this little truck. I've been daily driving it for over a year and a half now with zero problems. I rolled and totaled my XJ on a wheeling trip over new years and ended up getting a 2007 4Runner Sport Edition to replace it. That will get daily driver duties now so I can keep the MJ in the garage and actually work on it. And it needs some love.
The MJ failed smog three weeks ago due to high NOx. I'm troubleshooting the problem, but it's kind of a moot point because I'm swapping my 125,000 mile XJ motor into it anyways. Other plans for it include finally getting around to trying to lower it a few inches, fixing the dents on the passenger side and eventually a new paint job and Eliminator body stickers. Gonna swap in a D44 with 3.73 gearing and a trac lock, and freshen up all the suspension and steering joints and bushings as well.
I hope to start updating this thread more frequently with pics and questions, I WILL have some questions for the gurus when it come time to swap the motor over.
Finally getting back to paying some attention to this little truck. I've been daily driving it for over a year and a half now with zero problems. I rolled and totaled my XJ on a wheeling trip over new years and ended up getting a 2007 4Runner Sport Edition to replace it. That will get daily driver duties now so I can keep the MJ in the garage and actually work on it. And it needs some love.
The MJ failed smog three weeks ago due to high NOx. I'm troubleshooting the problem, but it's kind of a moot point because I'm swapping my 125,000 mile XJ motor into it anyways. Other plans for it include finally getting around to trying to lower it a few inches, fixing the dents on the passenger side and eventually a new paint job and Eliminator body stickers. Gonna swap in a D44 with 3.73 gearing and a trac lock, and freshen up all the suspension and steering joints and bushings as well.
I hope to start updating this thread more frequently with pics and questions, I WILL have some questions for the gurus when it come time to swap the motor over.
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Going to start the swap of my '98 motor into my '92 this weekend. Any tips or things I need to know - the donor motor was mated to an AW4 and I will be keeping the MJ's AX-15.
Can I use the newer intake manifold, injectors and sensors?
What is needed to adapt the '98 motor to the '92 AX-15 trans?
Should I replace the clutch on the trans? It feels fine, but I have no idea how many miles are on it. I'm not sure how involved of a job this is. I plan on replacing the input and output seals on the trans while its out, anything else?
I've heard everything from its plug and play job, to having to mess with the speed sensor and ECU because I'm using a different trans.
Can I use the newer intake manifold, injectors and sensors?
What is needed to adapt the '98 motor to the '92 AX-15 trans?
Should I replace the clutch on the trans? It feels fine, but I have no idea how many miles are on it. I'm not sure how involved of a job this is. I plan on replacing the input and output seals on the trans while its out, anything else?
I've heard everything from its plug and play job, to having to mess with the speed sensor and ECU because I'm using a different trans.
