You may recall...

Yeah, it's kinda hard to break a 2" diameter solid chunk of steel.
It hard to do but still possible. But when you do all they ask for is a pic of the damage.
What to ask me how I know?:angel:

"HeroTrail" @ Hale mt took out a helm and the threads on the rear upper left bar on my old tj. They replaced both with just a pic of the damage and it was one of their gen one kits and about 11 years old.

I have a RK kit on the TJ unlimited now too. I love their kits.
 
It hard to do but still possible. But when you do all they ask for is a pic of the damage.
What to ask me how I know?:angel:

"HeroTrail" @ Hale mt took out a helm and the threads on the rear upper left bar on my old tj. They replaced both with just a pic of the damage and it was one of their gen one kits and about 11 years old.

I have a RK kit on the TJ unlimited now too. I love their kits.

Hmm, My upper link has messed up threads in it. Really, it was my fault for not having the joint threaded in quite far enough. I wonder if they'd do anything about that.
 
I had my buddy take some real pictures so everything I had wasn't from my iPhone, but I wanted these before it went under the knife since it is pretty original!


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Please take pictures.

What are you doing for the long arm mounting brackets? Since there is no crossmember, are you going to add one or is it not necessary? I was told by some who have used the RK kit, that they have made a crossmember to stiffen everything up. What is your take? What does Stump think?
 
We didn't get that far, from what their instructions show you don't need to fab a crossmember or anything like that. But we'll see once we actually get it on there if it's something I'm going to need/want to add afterwards. I'm lucky enough to have a slew of other cars so this can keep sitting until it's right.

We got the rear 8.8/spring over axle conversion knocked out tonight. The front long arm setup still needs to be done, but that'll get knocked out in the coming weeks. Talk about a gangsta lean!

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Look at that cute little Dana 35!

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Just waiting on my Rubicon Express 5.5'' coils and some time to get the front knocked out at this point. I'm kind of on the fence with my plan for 4.10s now in favor of 4.56s, my thoughts are the extra gearing may help with the lighter rear end. Obviously a locker would be best, but gear wise I don't want to be disappointed.

Here is what my old XJ is looking like now days. ORFab rear and rocker armor, and Rustys front metal flare armor. He has a new Warn winch with on board air for it and got a Warn (I believe) rear bumper after he painted it Anvil. He also put some hood vents in and a few other small things. He is still waiting to do the 4.56s until he gets his lockers in.

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FWIW, I'm running 33's on 4.10's and I feel it's very lacking in my hilly area. It's the same as my last one on 35's & 4.56's. I feel I'd be happier with 4.56's on the 33's and would've been happier with 4.88's with the 35's. I'm sure that if I lived in a more flat area my opinion would change, but that's my experience.
 
You could probably be happy with 33's 4.10s and a mantrans. Personally i like deeper gears whenever possible. The 4.56's will be much easier on the clutch and associated parts both on the street and in the dirt. Plus if you ever decide to put 35s on it youll already be in the right gearing range.

Just dont run 4.88s.... A pinion that small doesnt belong in a d30, ever.
 
Yeah mine's an automatic so I suppose that's why I'm not too happy with it. On the flip side, my Wrangler has 4.56's on 32's & AX15. It's fun from red light to red light, not so great on the highway lol
 
I'll probably stick with the 4.10s in the end since my commute to work is 25 miles highway and that's going to be its average trip other than where I may go wheel. I think I'm going to rock this Peugeot for awhile and just rebuild my ax15 until it's really needed.
 
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