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XJ has different "modes"???

Ok well one more reason to believe it's the IAC. I started it up yesterday and everything was fine. Perfect. I went in and out of reverse multiple times to make sure it was getting thrown into ridiculous mode like it usually did. Took it up the street, nothing. Perfect shifts, no stutters on turns, nothing. My steering is still stiff, but no "electrical" problems. So then I pull back to the house and put it in park. The idle immediately shoots up to 2200 rpms, finally falling to around 1700 rpms. So time to head to the stealership or shop around online.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Ok well one more reason to believe it's the IAC. I started it up yesterday and everything was fine. Perfect. I went in and out of reverse multiple times to make sure it was getting thrown into ridiculous mode like it usually did. Took it up the street, nothing. Perfect shifts, no stutters on turns, nothing. My steering is still stiff, but no "electrical" problems. So then I pull back to the house and put it in park. The idle immediately shoots up to 2200 rpms, finally falling to around 1700 rpms. So time to head to the stealership or shop around online.

That does not sound like a bad IAC. It sounds more like a loose ground, or bad TPS. Something is sending bad data to the ECU/PCM and it is adjusting the IAC, or there may be an intermitent vacuum leak. Start it up and get the idel to about 750 in park while hot, then disconnect the IAC and run it through the paces, modes. If the idle changes again like before it is probably a vacuum leak coming and going somehow. If it runs normal while the IAC is disconnected than look for a bad TPS or bad ground or a bad sensor or bad sensor wiring like on the O2 sensor. Also check the vacuum line between the throttle body and the MAP sensor, if it is loose it will do real screwy stuff.
 
Alright well so far I've replaced the TPS, MAP, and IAC. Still nothing. I tried about 3 different junyard TPS's and 1 brand new one. Still throws a p0122. I REALLY need plug wires, they are in the mail. But the old ones ark and get real bad in the rain. Any way this could be throwing the code?
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Alright well so far I've replaced the TPS, MAP, and IAC. Still nothing. I tried about 3 different junyard TPS's and 1 brand new one. Still throws a p0122. I REALLY need plug wires, they are in the mail. But the old ones ark and get real bad in the rain. Any way this could be throwing the code?

Maybe. When did this "Still throws a p0122." show up, that is the first you mentioned it here?

Bad arcing plug wires are part of your problem for sure. When they arc they can affect electlronic gounds, cause engine miss, and if they arc to sensor or computer wires look OUT! Get that fixed first.

If the code remains you have either a bad PCM wire to the ECU or a bad PCM power supply.

Oh, and a loose belt causes alternator voltage fluctuations which screw everthing up too!!!! Get that belt changed for sure, or get it degreased and tensioned properly if it's not worn out.
 
Yup, wires are in the mail, and a belt is on the list for tomorrow. The code has been around for maybe 2 weeks now. I didn't think I had a CEL, but then realized it was burned out! So it's probably been on as long as the problem has been occuring.
 
Well I replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor last night. All OEM. Still has the problem. I'm really starting to think this TPS is bad, but I've tried a couple different ones with no luck. I'm so confused!
 
As I said before,

" If the code remains you have either a bad PCM wire to the TPS or a bad PCM power supply.

Oh, and a loose belt causes alternator voltage fluctuations which screw everthing up too!!!! Get that belt changed for sure, or get it degreased and tensioned properly if it's not worn out."

Start using a volt meter to test the voltage input from the PCM to the TPS when it is in rediculous mode, or when the idle goes whacky!!!!! AS I said before it's not the IAC.
 
Yup not the IAC, and not the TPS. Might be what you said about the power supply, but the actual sensor is fine. I've tested 2 new ones and 2 used ones, all with the same result. I put a new belt on this morning, OEM as well. Stopped some funky squealing but the problem is still here.

Funny thing is, it only starts to cut out around right turns. Sometimes the converter will disengage on the highway etc... but it never stutters on left turns, never. Still shifts too high, still idles weird and erratically.

How do I go about checking the PCM power supply or the PCM wire to TPS? I am severely stumped on this one.
 
Is there a power steering pressure sensor that talks to the PCM on the 97 model, a load sensor for bumping up the rpms during turns? I know some vehicles started adding them in the late 90s, like dodge neons IIRC.

Start at the TPS, measure the input voltage during erratic behavior, rig up a long set of wires with a splice to a meter you can use in an empty parking lot if it only miss behaves while driving. If the voltage from the PCM to the TPS is not a steady 5 volts (read if it jumps erraticaly during bad behavior) you will know it is the PCM or a shorting, loose wire between the PCM and the TPS.

Look for wires near the exhaust manifold that may have rubbed and burned the insulation off, or pjnched, shorted wires that get jerked durring a turn, and check the engine and transmission mounts too to see if cornering is making the tranny move excessively. I had a bad tranny mount (no bolts) for years that I never knew about.
 
The mounts are fine, but I'll check around for a burned wire in the bay. I rreally think it's something to do with the power steering. Even if I'm sitting in the driveway and turn to the right, it stutters and bucks. The idle goes up and down, and nearly cuts off. It's almost like a wire is touching some moving steering parts, but I've looked it over up and down and found nothing binding or rubbing anything.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
The mounts are fine, but I'll check around for a burned wire in the bay. I rreally think it's something to do with the power steering. Even if I'm sitting in the driveway and turn to the right, it stutters and bucks. The idle goes up and down, and nearly cuts off. It's almost like a wire is touching some moving steering parts, but I've looked it over up and down and found nothing binding or rubbing anything.

OK. Long shot, but it could be the power steering pump or high pressure hose Internal colapse of hose wall) or steering gear box getting in some kind of a bind and locking up and creating back pressure on the steering pump from somewhere downsteam of the pump. If the pump pressure can not flow (read: a clogged hose, or stuck steering gear or linkage) it dead heads the pump and the load increases on the engine dropping the engine rpms. There may be a cheak valve in the power steering pump outlet that could be bad. Not sure on any of this, as I have not really had it happen to me before, but it is possible.
 
Well I made a lot of progress today. My buddy works as a Volvo tech and let me bring it in today. We hooked up Modis and ran a whole bunch of tests. Long story short, my TPS, IAC, MAP, and every other sensor are fine. The TPS code is being set off by either a short somewhere in the signal wire, or a bad PCM. The TCU is fine, the power and ground are fine on the TPS, it's getting the right voltage, but something is messing with it. I also got a code P0700, which is a tranny code. Looked that up and it's with the TPS too. My idle also got better from resetting something that has to do with the IAC and pintle length.

However, the problem is still there, but it's definitely electrical related, and seems to have gotten a little better. One of his guys used to be a jeep tech and said he has also seen this problem happen before, but only once. I'm taking it into the Jeep shop foreman on Monday to see what he can figure out. If he's stumped, they're gonna open a case on it. All because I know a guy who knows a guy, which is good :)

All in all we spent about 4 hours this morning trying to diagnose it. A LOT of stuff was eliminated, but the problem is still hidden.
 
Well I'm still pissed. Not the pcm. I swapped one out with my sisters 98, no go. I want to take it to the dealer but I'm scared they're going to do the same thing I did and dick around for hours on Modus or Alldata with no luck, while I'm in the waiting room getting the shaft...
 
While you are waiting around remove every ground you can find, clean both ends of the grounds so they are nice and shiny on both the lugs, bolts, mount points then put a dab of dielectric grease on them and put them back on. Might want to stick a meter on those wires too if they are covered in insulation, they can corrode under it and you won't see it, the braided one can also be replaced for a buck or two at the store.
As far as finding a vac leak in the engine compartment, some carb cleaner or WD40, when you hit the leak you will hear the engine idle change, you can use water too but thats a bit more subtle.
One other thing, the OBDII stores the running parameters in there, if you replace a bunch of stuff it's a good idea to disconnect the battery and let the ECU reset to factory. Then reconnect and go drive it for 45 min or so, don't just let it idle and relearn, drive it. I had a big hesitation problem after I replaced my engine with a jasper, for 2 years it had a really annoying hesitation on acceleration, modis did not show it, nothing turned up. Back in January I had to replace the alternator and the battery got disconnected so the ecu had to relearn, the hesitation was gone. When the engine was replaced all they did was idle it and take it for a 10 min test drive then parked it. It never really learned it's parameters other than idle and short drive.
 
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Good idea RichP, might as well while I'm thinking of other possibilities. I'm still super stumped as to why it does it on right turns only. It's definitely an electrical problem, but I haven't seen the harness or anything else flexing while I turn. Something is screwing the TPS. The tranny says the TPS is bad, and the ECU agrees, so I might just have to trace every wire related to that circuit.
 
While it's idling in the driveway start tugging and moving wires around.
 
Use GB's Oxguard instead of di-electric.
Great stuff. Protects aginst corrosion and is a conductor, has metal flake in it to bite into connecting surfaces..
Di-electric is an insulator and will keep moisture out but is only as good as the initial contact.
My .02
 
Great thread, but would you guys mind spelling out some of the abbreviations. I am having some shifting problems and think some of this info would also be useful, but other than the TCU and TPS, I have no idea what parts we're talking about.

Thanks!
 
Hmm well I looked over the thread at abbreviations that were used. Some of the confusing ones could be: IAC, Idle Air Control (motor) this controls your idle. MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. TPS is Throttle Position Sensor, this controls basically your entire transmission. When it shifts, when the torque converter engages and disengages etc... PCM stands for Powertrain control Module. This is basically your entire engine's computer. Sometimes referred to as the ECU (engine control unit) or other terms. That's all I could find confusing, anything else just ask
 
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