WTB cheaper labor rate

jentz71

NAXJA Forum User
Location
reno
Live in Reno and was looking for someone with xj skills i.e. I need to install a S.Y.E. but won't pay the 95$ rate to install.
I know I probably could do it BUT want piece of mind in knowing it's done right. If you or anyone you know does quality side work let me know..

Thx
 
Unless it is a hack & tap, $95 sounds cheap. If it is a H&T, disco the rear shaft and pull out your sawzall or angle grinder with it in gear and running. Have at it!
 
It really is very easy to do, just a little scary to crack it open. Once you do though you will notice there are only 3 parts to worry about in the back half of the case. The two shafts and the chain.

I can help you out if you ever make it down to sac.

Josh
 
so if you ever have to mess with a t case on the trail, who are you going to pay then for a cheap rate?
its best to learns the ins and outs of your xj in the garage for the first time, so when it happens on the trail (or freeway) you already know the process . i am a firm believer that if you wont work on your junk in your own garage then you definetly wont be working on it on the trail. which means i or someone else has to work on your broken junk on the trail. which sucks for me or someone else. so learn to work on your junk. dont get me wrong, ill help you work on it either way of you rboke down on the trail....


plus the more you know your vehicle inside and out, the more you will understand its capabilities and where the strenghts and weaknesses exist.



its easy to pull a t case off. once its off, its easy to install a sye.
95$ is dirt cheap. ive heard rates as low as 450$ before to pull the case, install the sye, reinstall case.

that being said, i installed a sye on my spare t case the other night in like an hour or something after a bottle of wine. its pretty straigtht forward.

get good snap ring pliers otherwise you wont be movnig as fast on it

tcase removal:
pull driveshafts
unbolts shift linkage - its one 1/2" nut on driver side.
disconnect any vacuum lines, electrical, adn speedo stuff.
support tranny
unbolt 4 x-member to tranny mount bolts
unbolt 4 x-member to frame bolts
pull x-member
unbolt 2 18mm tranny mount bolts
unbolt 6 bolts (9/16) from tranny to t case
lots of u joints and extensions are a must for some of the ahrder to reach of the 6 bolts, and i also use ratcheing wrenches as well.
pull t case off. it only weighs 80 pounds.


install sye on case
reinstall t case on tranny
drink the rest of your 12 pack...
 
That's probably $95/hour at a shop. And it'd probably by 3-4 hours with removal and replacement.

I understand 'work on your own rig' but what sort of trail repair will you be doing inside the transfer case anyway?
 
I like knowing that i can pull the t case with confidence if i need to. the worst ive had to do is rear output seal, super easy trial fix if you carry spare seals...

things that could happen:
bust rear output shaft (swap in spare)

holes in the case halves wallow out that hold the rod that the shift fork slides on wallow out and you loose the abilityto shift in and out or to move at all (this happens on borg warner electric shift ford explorer t cases , ive had to one due to that, car wouldnt move...)

swap in new chain

crack the t case in half

probability of these things are pretty low but still....
 
yah 95 an hr. like I said I could do it but wanted a tutor in knowing it was right but guess thats what directions are for
 
honestly if you can change your brakes you can pull a t case and do a sye.
take your time, if you have to, have ziplock bags, and a sharpie and label bolts and parts as you go , i even sometimes take pictures with my camera and use it for reference if i get stuck.
 
Unless it is a hack & tap, $95 sounds cheap. If it is a H&T, disco the rear shaft and pull out your sawzall or angle grinder with it in gear and running. Have at it!

"With it in gear and running"????? WTF? Don't do this please. Aside from the obvious dangers please ask yourself, why? The shaft turning isn't going to cut the shaft any quicker. Sorry but it's simply a bad idea.
 
Tons of people have done it and I haven't heard one negative thing about. With it in two wheel drive and no rear shaft, the car isn't going anywhere.

Spinning the shaft is about getting a straight perfect cut, not cutting faster.
 
"Spinning the shaft is about getting a straight perfect cut"

A- It doesn't have to be perfectly straight. Close enough is good enough. Cut it long then flap disc it. Or simply cut it straight in the first place, lol.

B- I installed one of the first RE "hack in taps" ever produced a good 10+ years ago and I've never heard of anyone running the engine to spin the shaft. Not to say it isn't done, but let's just say without hurting anyone's feelings, maybe that's why they call it "Hack" in Tap. As in those that install it that way are the "Hacks" and not the kit.

C- Finally, as to the car not going anywhere? What if while the car is in gear somehow the T-case is engaged, then what? We read how you ran yourself over and you're paralized and the Heep ended up in the kitchen.

All because you couldn't cut straight? No thanks.
 
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