RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Kristian, you need to re-gear to at least 4.56's for that size tire, 4.88's would be more the ticket!
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WJ front axle in Xj -89
- Thread starter K.Skog
- Start date
smokeyyank
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Crawlarado
Ahh, well in that case the varilock axles are trash.
- Location
- Colorado
The akebonos fit with no grinding into my 15" cheap D window steelies... the teeves I took off weren't much smaller, but by a hair. Idk why a bigger rim would be a "good thing for 35" tires" ? id rather have more rubber and less steel/ less weight tbh.
I know some have swapped zj seats. I might take a look at the wj seats if they aren't beat up and go for it. Like was said: knuckles, tierod, drag link, brakes, and steering pump are the only real upgrades off a dub. Most peeps take the knuckles and drag link, ream the knuckles for tierod and use heims or 1ton tre.
I've seen a few do the brakes and all seem to have different results afa needing spacers not needing spacers(caliper bolt spacers, all needed the hub to knuckle ring- no need to weld it though, that's a fairy tale) and rims rubbing on akebonos. Seems like the aluminum rims have more chance to rub? Idk if they are thicker in the 15" flavor but I had no issues with steel.
On my 2000, I did the WJ BB swap and cross over steering. For some reason the 15" steelies didn't fit. The 2000 XJ, 16" rims did. I am running 31's on 3.73 gearing. I do use 07-08 Liberty or Nitro brake rotors. They are a 'No Drill' option. You give up about a 1/16" on the outer side. I do run 32.5's on '98 XJ. They are a bit sluggish on flat land. Still, OK over all. I'm looking at 4.88 and 35" on my next build. I do run Ford 8.8 with the LS (Limited Slip) on both.
- Location
- Colorado
Nitro and liberty of the same year works? I need to grab some at the jy for my spare axle shafts.. if a warn hub goes boom on the trail, or a front axle shaft, I want to be able to throw in a spare shaft with the liberty/ nitro rotor ready to rock
Been running them on the 2000 XJ for about 2 years now. RT 15 in WV has a few Kissmeheinies or hairpins on it. Also, ran them on my '98XJ for a few years. I went with WJ rotors and Hubs to run the WJ 5 on 5 Rims.
Its crazy how so many wj swaps with even more outcomes.
Ive done it
Ran teeves later swapped to akobone no noticed difference in caliper size neither rubbed 15" steel wheels with 3.5" back spaceing.
Hydraulic mods please go alittmore in depth so I can figure out what I missed.
Didnt weld unit bearing spacer I agree its a fairytale the guys saying you have to probably havent done the swap.
At the end of the day 373 355 are so close you can run them on the dirt with no issues I wouldnt want to run them at speed or on a surface that wont allow the tires to slipp.like asphalt will twist transfercase into a pretzel
and would prefer the 355 front 373 rear so that the front is pulling instead of being pushed.
The wj swap is pretty envolved aswell as exspensive thats why not many do it. But its one of the best mods that can be done on a xj.
running 4.88s 33 35 tire. Did a grizzly front locker at time of gears . gears with front locker was like flipping a switch into a offroad go anywhere get really stuck kinda rig. Baddass
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Ive done it
Ran teeves later swapped to akobone no noticed difference in caliper size neither rubbed 15" steel wheels with 3.5" back spaceing.
Hydraulic mods please go alittmore in depth so I can figure out what I missed.
Didnt weld unit bearing spacer I agree its a fairytale the guys saying you have to probably havent done the swap.
At the end of the day 373 355 are so close you can run them on the dirt with no issues I wouldnt want to run them at speed or on a surface that wont allow the tires to slipp.like asphalt will twist transfercase into a pretzel
and would prefer the 355 front 373 rear so that the front is pulling instead of being pushed.
The wj swap is pretty envolved aswell as exspensive thats why not many do it. But its one of the best mods that can be done on a xj.
running 4.88s 33 35 tire. Did a grizzly front locker at time of gears . gears with front locker was like flipping a switch into a offroad go anywhere get really stuck kinda rig. Baddass
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I've had the spacer ring welded on the three sets of knuckles I have. I have or had two XJs run with them. I did switch on to a 5 on 5 with WJ Bearing hubs. The third set I started out to add an adjustable steering stops. Then I added pressed in 1/4 spacers for the caliper bracket. I went OTK on this one. My other two are under. I did make a fixture or plug to center the 1/4 spacer ring to the bore for the hub bearing.
A real benefit is the WJ cross over steering. I ran my first one without a steering stabilizer for at least a year. I've been running the second on with out a steering stabilizer for about 2 years. A little bit of a steering bounce once in a while.
I think that casting variations, ie core shift, tolerance stackup and I wonder about variations on the steel rims would cause issues.
I am having an issue with the front drivers side. I thought it might be the F(l)AG hub bearing. I had an SKF and a F(l)AG for the install. NAPA was changing suppliers. I installed a new (open box) SKF Sunday. The replaced hub bearing looked to be an SKF. My tire had puckered and there was a bit of a whine. The replaced hub unit seemed OK. I did note marked on the IRO Almost alloy axle shaft. I'll have to look further into it.
I am running NAPA Adaptive pads and Reactive rotors. They seem OK. I did have some brake fade though coming down Point Mountain in WV. I was behind some logging truck for a while. I'll probably install the Black Magic pads I have at some point. He recommends Cetric rotors, but doesn't sell WJ ones.
A real benefit is the WJ cross over steering. I ran my first one without a steering stabilizer for at least a year. I've been running the second on with out a steering stabilizer for about 2 years. A little bit of a steering bounce once in a while.
I think that casting variations, ie core shift, tolerance stackup and I wonder about variations on the steel rims would cause issues.
I am having an issue with the front drivers side. I thought it might be the F(l)AG hub bearing. I had an SKF and a F(l)AG for the install. NAPA was changing suppliers. I installed a new (open box) SKF Sunday. The replaced hub bearing looked to be an SKF. My tire had puckered and there was a bit of a whine. The replaced hub unit seemed OK. I did note marked on the IRO Almost alloy axle shaft. I'll have to look further into it.
I am running NAPA Adaptive pads and Reactive rotors. They seem OK. I did have some brake fade though coming down Point Mountain in WV. I was behind some logging truck for a while. I'll probably install the Black Magic pads I have at some point. He recommends Cetric rotors, but doesn't sell WJ ones.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Good to know about this rotor option. Piecing together a WJ swap and the idea of drilling a rotor gave me anxiety.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Wish they said what the brand was. I'd like to stick with Centrics and use the black magic pads.
I do have a set of Black Magic pads. Might have to see if Blaine has any issues with the Nitro Centric rotors. See how they perform vs the NAPA Reactive -Adaptive setup. It will probably be next year.
Edit: I looked a Black Magic. He list Liberty rotors for 2002-2007. So, I have to check cross reference on Rock Auto. So, Nitro 2007-2011 and Liberty 2008-2012.
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I looked on Rock Auto. The OD of the Patriot is 11.575. So, giving up a 1/4 of contact radius. Not for me. With the Libby/Nitro its about a 1/16. With the pads on mine, I'm near the Edge. Also, watch the choice on Libby-Nitro rotors. The HD ones are a bit over 13". It would have possibilities if you could get a rim of say 17". I am looking into that or the 2014 Cherokee rotor, then drill 5 on 5, Dakota Calipers and WJ hubs. I have rum WJ hubs and rims with WJ rotors on my '98 XJ.
atriot:RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Because of the difficulty in finding things there, you would be way better off to just re-gear now and avoid all the other things!
Yea I know. The main issue is cash and availability (spellcheck this please
) The plan is to get the highest ratio I can get for the cheapest price I can get them.
As for now it would actually be cheaper to fly to the US with an empty bag, fill it with parts and fly home instead of buying the stuff In Sweden
Planned the same thing with a riflescope once but my wife passed the date to fly due to pregnancy so no new scope for me
2 planetickets, 2 weeks at a hotel in Miami and the same rifle scope = 34.500 SEK
The same rifle scope in Sweden = 35.000SEK
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I would make a deal with one of the east coast Naxja members!!!
Also, with the gears, you have to note weather HP or LP. The Ford 8.8 did come with 4.10 gears. Auto or Manual and tire size? Also terrain and usage.
I will note that I see that the Libby did have options of a 17" and 18" rims. I haven't seen them in person.
I will note that I see that the Libby did have options of a 17" and 18" rims. I haven't seen them in person.
