Wiring Q involving CB

[97XJ2]

I have decided that I'm putting my CB in my overhead console, I'll put up pics when done. Now for those that know wiring, can I tap into the 'power supply' to the overhead to power the CB? (and is there an 'always hot' supply?) I would bet the answer is no but I've been wrong before and I don't know wiring. This is just so I can be lazy and not have to run a wire down to the fuse block.

Prob be helpful to know: Uniden PC68LTW

manufacturer's specs
Current Drain
TX:​

​

​

AM Full Modulation 2.2 A max)​

RX: Squelch 25 A

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I plugged in to the wiring for my cigarette lighter, since I have the aux power outlet too, and don't use my lighter..... Just pulled the dash apart and plugged the CB wires into the connection. I can leave the CB on all the time, because it turns on/off with the ignition.

 

[bradow]

The best always hot fuse I have found in the fuse block is for the headlights. But that does'nt help you much does it. Sorry.

 

[CharlesS]

While connecting the power source of the CB to the overhead console power may be the easiest...; this may interfer with the operation of the console functions...
Probably would be more advisable to run the separate +/- wires to give a more suitable power source.
Running the wiring directly to the battery is your best source of power since the battery not only provides power, but acts as a capacitor and filters out the vehicles electrical noises...

 

[Mudderoy]

It's only 4 watts during transmit, but you'll be a lot happier in the long run if you run the same gauge wire that is on the radio, all the way to the battery. You'll get the full current that your radio wants and wires can handle, otherwise you are splitting up between the device that you are taping into, and the current capacity of it's wiring. You can do the math and figure it all out, but it is just simpler to run to the battery.

And like the other guy said about it being a nice filter for electrical noise.

Yes yes I know it will work find on the cig lighter etc...

 

[97XJ2]

Ok, all confirms what I figured: sure it could be done but your limiting your system if you do it that way. Going back and looking at it now it shouldnt be difficult to tuck the wiring away.

Muckleroy- We'll just say that it puts out a little more than that :shhh:, which is probably another good reason I do the wiring right.

ONE more: Now would running to the battery really be that much more beneficial than hard wiring into the accessory port circuit?

BTW: I found a diagram there is an always hot wire in the overhead, would make sense to keep the data.

 

[Mudderoy]

Ok, all confirms what I figured: sure it could be done but your limiting your system if you do it that way. Going back and looking at it now it shouldnt be difficult to tuck the wiring away.

Muckleroy- We'll just say that it puts out a little more than that :shhh:, which is probably another good reason I do the wiring right.

ONE more: Now would running to the battery really be that much more beneficial than hard wiring into the accessory port circuit?

BTW: I found a diagram there is an always hot wire in the overhead, would make sense to keep the data.

Back when I was doing the CB thing I thought "With only 4 watts out I want to be sure I at least get the 4 watts!" I'm into HAM radio these days and it is either 50 watts, or 100 watts. I really don't have a choice about going tto the battery or not.

 

[Midnight Krawler]

A 4 watt CB pulls just about 1 amp of power during transmitting. Any hot wire like the over head light will work. Just make sure to fuse the wire going to the CB.

 

[CharlesS]

On a 12.5 volt (V) circuit; 4 watts (W) transmitted draws approximately 3 amps (A) (ie. 12.5VDC / 4W = 3.125A) depending upon what the carrier is set at.... On a SSB radio; the amperage draw can modulate up and down.

 

[h2opete987]

On a 12.5 volt (V) circuit; 4 watts (W) transmitted draws approximately 3 amps (A) (ie. 12.5VDC / 4W = 3.125A) depending upon what the carrier is set at.... On a SSB radio; the amperage draw can modulate up and down.

got your equation a bit backwards there. is P=I*V (power=current*voltage), or I=P/V. so on a nominally 13.8v system, I=4w/12.8v=.3125amps (transmitting). you also have the constant power draw, and the effeciency losses from the amplifiers to consider.

in any case, i would run 2 additional lines, just to be on the safe side.

 

[CharlesS]

Now that you mention it...
What was I thinking....
Thanks for the correction....

Would recommend nothing smaller than 14 ga wires to the battery....

 

[RCP Phx]

The transmitted output power(watts) has nothing to do with the DC amps(watts).