Why I won't be doing any wheeling this year.

One of the things I have thought about does involve desert tan. Was thinking of doing digital/multi camo with desert tan as the base. Maybe I will do that with my MJ
 
EricsXJ said:
Thanks. I didn't realize I forgot to put up some pics of the crossmember. I literally have about a thousand photos of the build, some I can use here and some I can't because they are being used in the book. Here's the crossmember:

8372.jpg


I designed it similar to how knucklehead61 made his. It starts with a 2" x 4" x 3/16" rectangular tube with 1/4" plate on the bottom. The brackets are from Ruff Stuff but they aren't a "kit". The uppers are their link towers with the bottom radius cut off (they are supposed to go on an axle tube).

8820.jpg


It mounts via 4 bolts under the frame rail on each side and 2 bolts through a plate into the inner side of the frame rail which is also plated. Then there is another 1/4" plate that bolts up connecting this crossmember to the TnT bellypan. You can see the 4 holes drilled into the rear of the bellypan for this purpose. And for added security there are three 1/2" long welds on each side holding it to the frame. Those welds can be easily cut if I need to remove the crossmember.

So yes I kept the TnT bellypan and modified it for the 3-link up front. I'm using my own links (it is a true 3-link, not TnT radius arms).
Click to expand...


Awesome thanks or the pics. I'm goin to link the rear and was thinking about using there rear crossmember that bolts onto the front part. Not sure yet. Mind taking some pics of how you built the upper link and off of what? I have a HP44 and the dam yoke/ujoint from the ds contacts the y link where the upper is welded onto the lower. And hard core. So I was thinking of cutting the uppers off and doing a 3 link but keeping there lowers.
 
jeepfreak1020 said:
Awesome thanks or the pics. I'm goin to link the rear and was thinking about using there rear crossmember that bolts onto the front part. Not sure yet. Mind taking some pics of how you built the upper link and off of what? I have a HP44 and the dam yoke/ujoint from the ds contacts the y link where the upper is welded onto the lower. And hard core. So I was thinking of cutting the uppers off and doing a 3 link but keeping there lowers.
Click to expand...
I've actually been asked the same question by someone else with the same exact problem you are having. I don't know what the solution is other than going with a different link setup and your idea might work.

So I kept the TnT bellypan for my 3-link. Keep in mind I have the older version and you had to attach the radius arm to it before lifting it up in place (major PIA). Some of the bolt holes on mine were messed up too. So I cut those mounts out and built my own lower mounts and welded them in the same place as the original ones with the bolt hole slightly (1/2" maybe) lower. You can't see it in this pic but the other side of the mount allows for bolt access so the link can be installed with the bellypan in place. The upper is an aftermarket link bracket that I welded on top, added the gusset and drilled the hole out for a 5/8" bolt, and strengthened with weld washers. I had to cut a hole in the floor for clearance but that was no big deal as I knew that would be necessary from the start.

8628.jpg
 
i love what you've done with the place :)
 
So you cut out the lower mounts off the crossmember that came on it? Then welded in new ones and added the upper one? Did you add it right above the lower or what? Mind taking a few of that man?
 
Definately a well built rig...
standard.jpg

...rides great on the road, works great in the rocks, and the hillbilly carburator fuel tank mod is the cat's meow. :shhh:
Only thing I'd change is the horrable muffler, I still hear that drone. :D
 
Jes said:
Only thing I'd change is the horrable muffler, I still hear that drone. :D
Click to expand...

LOL back in Eric's original 'beef-up' thread on JeepForum, he had a video of his exhaust and said it wasn't too loud. So I followed suit and bought the same cat and muffler for mine.

OMFG is the drone horrible. 4.56's and 35's makes for a nice headache every time I drive it, especially with the doors off. A lot of times, I'll keep it in 3rd gear up to 50mph just to put it higher in the powerband and away from the drone.

Sorry Eric :)
 
I, for one, cannot wait to see this thing in person in Moab! :cheers:
 
Thanks for the pic Jes!

Yes I agree the drone from the exhaust is bad... really bad. I'm going to try and add a tip to the end of the exhaust so it points straight back or to the side instead of to the ground. Its only bad between 1500 - 2000 rpms but that happens to be where it cruises at on the trail. Going fast or with the doors on, it is not bad at all.
 
I think what's next is to wheel it until he finds the weak links. then to upgrade them.

:D
 
EricsXJ said:
what weak links? ;)
Click to expand...

there's always "weak links" that need upgrading :D

actually I might also have to finally upgrade my stock AM/FM cassette player. I'm afraid the dust in it will make it eat my Van Halen tapes.
Click to expand...

put some Schenker in there... that will clean the dust out :laugh:
 
Killer work man, props to you sir. I've enjoyed everything you've shared; please continue.

:cheers:

Quick question about that line lock. Do you have to keep power on it stay closed (engaged)? As to say, if your battery went dead, or became disconnected, wouldn't the solenoid release?
 
Last edited:
s14unimog said:
Quick question about that line lock. Do you have to keep power on it stay closed (engaged)? As to say, if your battery went dead, or became disconnected, wouldn't the solenoid release?
Click to expand...
It depends on how you wire it. Mine is wired to a circuit direct to the battery so the engine can be shut off and it still has power (and remains engaged). If you wire it to a switched circuit, it would disengage when you shut off the engine. I intend to use it only for short periods of time, mostly on the trail if I need to park on an incline and get out of the vehicle. I need it to remain engaged whether the engine is on or off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

rang-a-stang
4.0 Head is cracked. Any other upgrades I should do when I am in there?
Replies
4
Views
379
Ol Blue
Ol Blue
F
Spartan locked help
Replies
1
Views
390
cabz
C
P
ARB bumper question
Replies
3
Views
321
Paradiddle
P
T
Steering Wheel Vibration
Replies
9
Views
587
techno
T
Jeepin_JD
92 XJ Sport - Resto Mod
Replies
17
Views
354
Jeepin_JD
Jeepin_JD
Back
Top