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Where should i start with this jeep?
- Thread starter pavester
- Start date
JRW7072009
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bullhead City, AZ
This link will help you learn most of the forum lingo, also some killer XJ specs.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cherokee-stock-specs-26256/
My XJ started out about how your looks, I would look on eBay and the junkyards for most of your body parts that's where I found the best deals.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I would start with fiberglass front fenders and a front clip off a '97+.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
As you don't know the maintenance history (a**umption), I would just use CHEAP fluids for the first change, don't waste money on expensive synthetics yet.
For engine oil, I recommend Shell Rotella 10w30 dino from Wal-Mart. Diesel motor oil will clean the years of sludge out of the engine.
For the differentials, cheap 75-90 gear oil.
For the AW4, cheap Dextron III if you can find it.
You should buy some commercial grade cooling system flush, the kind you put in and drive it for 500 miles, then flush and neutralize it, and fill with 50/50 mix coolant and distilled water. After the flush and before the refill, remove the thermostat housing and replace the thermostat. Use a Stant Premium 195 degree thermostat. Drill two holes in the thermostat flange, far enough in from the outer edge for that mounting and the gasket will not block them. Place the thermostat holes at 12 and 6 o'clock, the will aid in "burping" the system. Replace the pressure bottle cap with Stant 10224--it is a Volvo cap but it clears the hood and keeps a higher amount of pressure, and it will seal on the aftermarket bottles.
For the transfer case any automatic transmission fluid will do, might as well keep it the same as the AW4.
Flush the brake system with new DOT 3 fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and pulls moisture from the air, and that moisture changes the brake fluid's properties--and not for the good. Rule of thumb, if you don't know when the brake fluid was last changed, or you can't remember, then it is time. Don't forget to inspect the rubber brake lines front and rear--when they get old they will "swell" when pressure is applied, and that reduces the effectiveness of the brakes--on a system where the brakes are not known for being good to start with.
For engine oil, I recommend Shell Rotella 10w30 dino from Wal-Mart. Diesel motor oil will clean the years of sludge out of the engine.
For the differentials, cheap 75-90 gear oil.
For the AW4, cheap Dextron III if you can find it.
You should buy some commercial grade cooling system flush, the kind you put in and drive it for 500 miles, then flush and neutralize it, and fill with 50/50 mix coolant and distilled water. After the flush and before the refill, remove the thermostat housing and replace the thermostat. Use a Stant Premium 195 degree thermostat. Drill two holes in the thermostat flange, far enough in from the outer edge for that mounting and the gasket will not block them. Place the thermostat holes at 12 and 6 o'clock, the will aid in "burping" the system. Replace the pressure bottle cap with Stant 10224--it is a Volvo cap but it clears the hood and keeps a higher amount of pressure, and it will seal on the aftermarket bottles.
For the transfer case any automatic transmission fluid will do, might as well keep it the same as the AW4.
Flush the brake system with new DOT 3 fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and pulls moisture from the air, and that moisture changes the brake fluid's properties--and not for the good. Rule of thumb, if you don't know when the brake fluid was last changed, or you can't remember, then it is time. Don't forget to inspect the rubber brake lines front and rear--when they get old they will "swell" when pressure is applied, and that reduces the effectiveness of the brakes--on a system where the brakes are not known for being good to start with.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Glad to see you made it here.
Welcome to
.
Welcome to
.:wave:Glad to see you made it here.
Welcome to
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Engine - 6 quarts, including filter. If you use a larger oil filter, start with 6 quarts then add as required after checking the level - the distance between "full" and "empty" is one quart.
Diffs - fill them up till the fluid starts pouring back out the hole.
AW4 - I believe it takes 12 quarts total, not sure, but I've found that you need around 3-5 quarts when doing a drain and fill, how much exactly depends on if you also replace the cooler lines and end up draining the tranny cooler out at the same time.
Transfer case - pull fill plug, pull drain plug, put drain plug back in, fill it up till it starts pouring back out (a couple quarts iirc)
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
x2 and make sure you do it in that order. You don't want to pull the drain plug out, drain it then find out you can't get the fill plug out.
Last edited:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Yep! That's something I learned while working at a quicklube garage. There were some pretty severe penalties for anyone who ignored their training and pulled the drain plug first - rule was always to pull the oil cap, put it on top of the hood latch, pull the fill plug on the transfer case for the fluid check as well. Same goes for manual transmissions.
Be careful on the transmissions though, if you don't know what you're looking for, it's easy to pull a special pin/bolt/plug/retainer gizmo out (on some trannies) that actually holds part of the shift fork mechanism in. Then you get to listen to all the important bits fall down inside the transmission and turn the air blue while getting ready to pull the transmission for reassembly...
Be careful on the transmissions though, if you don't know what you're looking for, it's easy to pull a special pin/bolt/plug/retainer gizmo out (on some trannies) that actually holds part of the shift fork mechanism in. Then you get to listen to all the important bits fall down inside the transmission and turn the air blue while getting ready to pull the transmission for reassembly...
