What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

[Crusher16]

Never mind. Timing isn't off. I was just paranoid. Haven't driven the jeep in a while so I forgot about the initial lifter tap. Ran the jeep more. Stays right at 210 with the new pump and radiator. Got to fix the upgraded headlight harness with some solder on a contact and I can finish putting the header panel and lights back on. Then I'll drive the piss out of it.

 

[Crusher16]

Radiator is set, runs good, temps stay at 210. Went to put my header panel and everything else back on and come to find that my headlights don't work now. Replaced battery terminal connectors, redid some of contacts and parts of the headlight harness and still get nothing. Sigh.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Make sure you burp the cooling system well.

I would pull the upgrade harness on the headlights and see if they work off the oe harness. Then at least you can isolate the issue.

 

[Crusher16]

Make sure you burp the cooling system well.

I would pull the upgrade harness on the headlights and see if they work off the oe harness. Then at least you can isolate the issue.

I tried the headlights without the harness and they do work without it. Id like to keep the harness, but I think Ill just pull it and order a new one.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

I tried the headlights without the harness and they do work without it. Id like to keep the harness, but I think Ill just pull it and order a new one.

They're 30 bucks on amazon these days.

Did you reconnect the grounds for the harness?

 

[Ecomike]

I had that problem 3 times recently, one was water in the relay shorted out and ate the relay, electrolysis (They are now sealed, relocated, turned 180 degrees.....learned that lesson!!!), other time one bulb was bad and so the other did not want to light, that was odd, the last was a bad ground to the frame for the harness on the drivers side (it killed both lights!!!).

Check the bulbs, relays and the grounds!

 

[XJ Eric]

Got rid of the Rugged Ridge HD steering. The tie rods were shot. So I picked up a stock set since I'm not wheeling it anymore. Replaced the rear wiper switch and Amazingly it works! Third try was the charm.

 

[Crusher16]

They're 30 bucks on amazon these days.

Did you reconnect the grounds for the harness?

Yep. Relays weren't even clicking on. I took the harness out. Have headlights again.

Next issue is that the timing chain cover seal for the harmonic balancer is leaking oil. Sooo all that shit has to come off again. Im about to order a new cover and gasket so I can do that when I feel like it. Which won't be for a while. Its not too bad of a leak.

 

[Ecomike]

Some leaks are caused by or made worse by a clogged CCV line on the rear of the valve cover, and huge crankcase leaks in other places, like the valve cover gasket or too much blow by exhaust.....

When the CCV system is air tight and the rear line is not clogged and getting good vacuum, the crank shaft seals seal much better and don't seem to leak. Also synthetic oil is real bad about leaking if you are running synthetic.

Are you sure it is not the oil pan gasket leaking?

Yep. Relays weren't even clicking on. I took the harness out. Have headlights again.

Next issue is that the timing chain cover seal for the harmonic balancer is leaking oil. Sooo all that shit has to come off again. Im about to order a new cover and gasket so I can do that when I feel like it. Which won't be for a while. Its not too bad of a leak.

 

[Crusher16]

Its coming from behind the harmonic balancer. I thought it was the oil pan gasket, but after looking at it closer, its from behind the balancer.

I also need to bleed the cooling system some more and fighter out why my electric fan doesn't kick on unless the ac is on.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

That's the Efan working properly.

Only clicks on for ac and overheating.

To burp put the nose uphill, open the rad cap, fill. Run jeep with cap open till coolant expands and comes out. Then cap it

 

[Crusher16]

That's the Efan working properly.

Only clicks on for ac and overheating.

To burp put the nose uphill, open the rad cap, fill. Run jeep with cap open till coolant expands and comes out. Then cap it

What temp does the efan kick on? mine never kicks on, even when it was over heating.

 

[Ecomike]

What temp does the efan kick on? mine never kicks on, even when it was over heating.

91 might have a fuse or relay, but I would think both on signals would use the same fuse and relay. The ECU turns it on based on temp data from the CTS, so your CTS on the T-stat housing may be bad. I am assuming this is a 91 you are talking about?

 

[Swamprat]

So the other day I gave up on trying to make my impreza a street queen, decided to lift it instead

 

[sandsgg]

Got pissed of at the mj cuz the idle still refuses to cooperate up down left right back forth stall race... Feel like I'm playing a really bad game of Tetris.

 

[Ecomike]

Try back-probing some key sensors and grounds with a DC volt multimeter, while it is doing that!!! Be willing to bet one of the sensor grounds is floating up and down or has some resistance that is bouncing the engine sensor outputs voltage to the ECU up and down causing the ECU to run the idle up and down.

It could be one of the crimped piggy back grounds in the wiring harness is loose, and or one of the old male/female harness to sensor connectors has a loose female pin making poor contact.

 

[Crusher16]

91 might have a fuse or relay, but I would think both on signals would use the same fuse and relay. The ECU turns it on based on temp data from the CTS, so your CTS on the T-stat housing may be bad. I am assuming this is a 91 you are talking about?

When I disconnect the CTS from the TStat housing, the CEL comes on and the fan kicks on, so I think thats fine. Not sure what else to check or if there is any other way the ECU would kick the efan on.

EDIT: Well, the sensor could still be bad. Hmmmm

 

[Ecomike]

When I disconnect the CTS from the TStat housing, the CEL comes on and the fan kicks on, so I think thats fine. Not sure what else to check or if there is any other way the ECU would kick the efan on.

Actually that confirms the ECU, wiring, and Fan and relay and fuse are fine, but also confirms that the sensor is bad since the fan does not come on when the jeep overheats!!!! You can verify that with an ohm meter and a hot sensor using the data tables in the FSM, or just replace the sensor.

 

[Crusher16]

Actually that confirms the ECU, wiring, and Fan and relay and fuse are fine, but also confirms that the sensor is bad since the fan does not come on when the jeep overheats!!!! You can verify that with an ohm meter and a hot sensor using the data tables in the FSM, or just replace the sensor.

Guess Ill swap in a sensor later today and see how that works.:wow:

 

[Ecomike]

Guess Ill swap in a sensor later today and see how that works.:wow:

Their resistance changes with temperature, so they are easy to test, or compare. Resistance versus temp tables are in many old posts here. Boiling water and ice water work well.