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What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

Ran more electrical tests on My Wagoneer. I have new Clues :cool:
 
87 Wagoneer, had to hot wire the fuel pump, final test. Heard a click, then nothing. Tried 4 times, same thing.
Pump is bad or...., needs to pulled out, so might as well replace it. It is 37 years old I think. Shopping for a new fuel pump assy.
Also need to drain some of the fuel, as the tank is full.
Any suggestions?
Need to pull the fuel pump to see if there is a fuel tank issue as well.
 
Had frame stiffeners and a StinkyFab long arm kit installed a couple weeks ago.
 

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87 Wagoneer, had to hot wire the fuel pump, final test. Heard a click, then nothing. Tried 4 times, same thing.
Pump is bad or...., needs to pulled out, so might as well replace it. It is 37 years old I think. Shopping for a new fuel pump assy.
Also need to drain some of the fuel, as the tank is full.
Any suggestions?
Need to pull the fuel pump to see if there is a fuel tank issue as well.
Installing an inline, external fuel pump instead, as soon I get a helper.... Ugh,
Wish me luck.
 
Just like the title says. Post up what you have done to your rig today!
Swapped out the pressure relief valve & spring from WJ power steering pump with the stock one in my 1998 XJ Sport. It was supposed make the steering easier, but no change. Side note: I have 33” tires. I’m thinking of the next recommended step of enlarging the small port in the high pressure port.
 
Inline fuel pump was no help, except to confirm that the dash fuel tank level gauge was lying (Gas tank was not full, it was 85% empty or more). My son helped install it and a day ago we installed (mostly my son) a new Renix Fuel pump assy in the tank.
Also replaced the FPR. Now on to getting it to actually run again. Wish me luck.
It served it me well. Not sure of it was the 1987 FP, or one installed before I bought the jeep in about 2005.

May my old Renix FP friend RIP.:
 

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I am going to sell one of my spare 4WD 1989 4DR Cherokees folks. Has to go in the next 4 weeks. It is in great shape. No Mods. Hell of deal.
 
Battery is not doing great, and drops to 10.5 Volts while cranking (one test, need to retest), and still not cranking fast enough after a full charge (according to the charger electronics, and the volt meter said It was changed up to 13.7 volts at full charge, and was fully charged). Thinking the battery is partly sulfated, and not up to the job, but it is just 11 months old)
It cranks 2 times faster with a 3000 amp Li-ion Boost charger, jumping it.
Still will not run.
Starter fluid (Ether gas vapor-spray) gets it to fire but it still does no run. Got fuel pressure (new pump and FP regulator, holding 36 PSI while pumping, takes at least 24-36 hours to bleed down to about 10 psi).
It is not flooded, and I checked two spark plugs, and they were not flooded, so either it is not getting spark, or not getting spark and fuel..
Testing continues.
 
Rear view mirror fixed, with an after market suction cup style Rear view mirror found on Amazon. It does not suck like the Permatex and 3M, and others glue kits do. Well actually it does suck (LOL) in a good way, and holds super strong, and can be re-attached in seconds.

I love it. Also fast and easy to install
(no more glue that gives up the ghost in summer heat waves BS).

Bulbs in the rear lamp assemblies, wiring and connections are all clean and in perfect working order. Hoping the problem is a turn signal flasher?
The column switches are not that old or used (Since I replaced them). I do have a customer dash 30 amp by-pass switch that must be 18 years old, that took a lot of loads off the poor wiring AMC/Jeep did back then, that may have gone bad, or the wiring/connectors, as it turns the wipers on/off just wiggling it (with the steering column WSW switch on...). I think it powers the door locks and E-windows also, so ugh, I may need to battle that under and behind the dash, but I am getting too damn old to get into tight spots with my Rheumatoid Arthritis kicking my ass...
 
Cranks and starts just fine now, even with the cranking battery voltage reading only 10.56 volts, and cranks like it 12 volts. Engine off the battery reads 13 volts, while running reads about 14 volts right after starting.

I have brake lights and turn signal lights now. My Custom 30 amp dash switch I installed 15 years ago to bypass the P*ss Poor ignition switch and undersized wiring, just needed some self cleaning exercise to make good electrical contact at the switch contacts after 2 years of non use.

She is good to go again.
 
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