What tire/wheel/terrain broke your D30?

Not everyone wants to run RCV shafts.

And they are still 19 spline. ;)
 
1993 D30, 3.55 gears lockrite, brake a drivers shafts and a pass shaft, both has to do with my heavy throttle use, both were the ujoint blowing apart taking the shafts with them, shortly after the break in the first vid moparmaniac broke a ps d44 shaft and took out his balljoints(that was a fun night)


2nd breakage, also twisted the splines in the inner shaft
 
Broke 5-6 teeth off the ring gear once doing a climb out of a pretty tough trail. Bad gear setup was to blame. Been running all the same parts since then with a new R&P with no problems.

35" Kevlars, RCV shafts, ARB, 4.56's, ruff stuff cover, recently trussed.


And everything I've heard agree's with Cal. Upgrading to a D44 is only good for about 37's and that's if you have all pricey parts on it. Everyone has told me no sense in upgrading unless you are going to a 60.
 
Broke 5-6 teeth off the ring gear once doing a climb out of a pretty tough trail. Bad gear setup was to blame. Been running all the same parts since then with a new R&P with no problems.

35" Kevlars, RCV shafts, ARB, 4.56's, ruff stuff cover, recently trussed.


And everything I've heard agree's with Cal. Upgrading to a D44 is only good for about 37's and that's if you have all pricey parts on it. Everyone has told me no sense in upgrading unless you are going to a 60.

This is the same thing I've read, and same as cal said, the only major differences are a bigger ring gear and real hubs the rest is about the same when a 44 is stock.

Also the 44s you guys smoked what were they out of?
 
f-150 hp44, narrowed to waggy width

I've broken about 8 warn premium locking hubs, two warn stubs, an alloy usa stub, 2 warn inners, 1 ten factory inner, 1 ctm, 3 brake calipers, a spindle.

granted, i drive it like its gsequioa's, but still.. i was way harder on my 30 and it held up way better.
 
f-150 hp44, narrowed to waggy width

I've broken about 8 warn premium locking hubs, two warn stubs, an alloy usa stub, 2 warn inners, 1 ten factory inner, 1 ctm, 3 brake calipers, a spindle.

granted, i drive it like its gsequioa's, but still.. i was way harder on my 30 and it held up way better.

What kind of wheeling do you do? And what are you running in the rear?
 
open it's really hard to break them. I thrashed my 30 (stock shafts, stock 297 ujoints missing some of the bearings already, stock balljoints, stock cover even...) for a year with 33" ATs on it, bounced it off things, went airborne, slammed wheels into obstacles at full throttle, sawed the steering back and forth while flooring it and shifting back and forth from 1st to reverse... it never even egged the yokes out.

Put an aussie in my next one and ripped a ujoint out of the pass side shaft and destroyed my balljoints the second time I took it out :doh: at only 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, going uphill in the rocks and bouncing a bit.

Terrain: steep rocky muddy woods trails in the northeast
Gears: 3.55s ftw!
Locked: no, yes
Tires: 33" ATs on steelies
Shafts: stock
Cover: RuffStuff
Throttle: yes.

I'm not sure if I damaged the yoke ears on that shaft while changing the ujoint in it a few weeks beforehand though. Regardless it sucked.

If I wanted to make a 30 last... truss, RCVs, and a good stout diff cover.

I carry spare parts and view them as somewhat disposable though, at least till I get my new axle built. Cost me more for the gas I burned on my last trip than replacing the whole 30 will (I bought a new one to sorta-build while I collect parts for the 44, it's getting the aussie, better shafts, WJ steering/brakes, etc)

- Ken 'I drive an MJ, I should just put the spare 30 in the bed and strap it down before hitting the trail' Stein
 
What kind of wheeling do you do? And what are you running in the rear?

teraflex 35 spline hp60 rear.

everything from driving to starbucks to wheeling the hammers.


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Pic shamelessly stolen from Goatman -who I bought this rig from - although we wheel most of the same trails (he however is a much better driver than I am).

I have a Dynatrac hp60 sitting in the garage waiting to go into the jeep, but its going to have to wait until next year, after we finish the KOH car.
 
When you break a stub, it has a high chance of breaking or swelling the spindle with it.

I've broken 3 D52 calipers. Braking hard in the sand, the ear rips off of the caliper at the lower pin, the caliper pivots up, pushes on the caliper bracket off plane and can destroy it. The last one left me stranded 200 miles from nowhere - a local club member had to come get me.

I bought a tow rig a couple of days later.... ;)
I find that interesting about the calipers, I've never heard anyone having issues with their calipers like that before. I have a spare spindle/hub/rotor/drive slugs in my back with me anyways for the other issues, but I have

This is the same thing I've read, and same as cal said, the only major differences are a bigger ring gear and real hubs the rest is about the same when a 44 is stock.

Also the 44s you guys smoked what were they out of?
Larger brakes, bigger/thicker axle tubes, I would say the housing is a little stronger.

I have a HP44 out of a '77 F150, narrowed to a custom width. I've only broken the two warn hubs (one I could tell wasn't engaging correctly, and I actually called me breaking the other one before we got on the trail), other than that it has been alright on my 33x13.5 tires with each wheel/tire weighing >115 lbs each. (Yes, they aren't 37's like Cal) I just threw stock slugs in out of the '74 wagoneer I got the knuckles out of both times I broke, and continued to wheel hard without issues.
 
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See I feel that if I'm going to go 60s I'd just build a fsj Cherokee or ramcharger. Damn this sucks.

what does one have to do with the other?

neither comes with 60's, and you're stepping down to a heavy carburated v8 vehicle that has less power than your lighter 4.0 powered rig now. spending more to have less..
 
Not everyone wants to run RCV shafts.

And they are still 19 spline. ;)
Not according to here.

Shaft & housing upgrades aside; I think the real thing almost everyone can agree on is above a 35" tire (and maybe even less than that), the D30 ring/pinion starts to really become the issue. You can upgrade anything to be 37"+ tire proof, but the tiny ring and pinon size only gets you so far.
 
I do agree with you that 35" is the cap on a D30 in most environments.

That said, I'd be willing to beat the living snot out of a properly built 30 on 35's. I'd even be willing to race KOH stock class with one... ;)
 
Knock on wood, I have ran 35"x10" boggers on a 1997 dana 30 with a lockright and 297 joints without much issue. But I am not one to hammer on the jeep. I am cheap.
 
19 spline stub shafts, spindles, hubs, lockouts, brake calipers. All weaker than equiv dana 30 27 spline or 30 spline stuff.

I don't mean to hi-jack but...

You're making me think I'd be better off doing WJ outters rather than the d30/44 hybrid. It would certainly be easier too so if you said yes and I decided to change my mind and go with the WJ outters/brakes, I wouldn't be heartbroken ;)
 
I don't mean to hi-jack but...

You're making me think I'd be better off doing WJ outters rather than the d30/44 hybrid. It would certainly be easier too so if you said yes and I decided to change my mind and go with the WJ outters/brakes, I wouldn't be heartbroken ;)


If we touch our D30 before we race King of the Hammers with it this winter, it will be to tube a HP44 center with D30 inner C's at a width to use 30 spline d30 shafts, WJ outers with a Warn 5x5.5 hub kit and Synergy TJ balljoints.

I think that's going to be the most solid hybrid setup we can come up with - best of both worlds before going to 1 ton stuff.
 
you realize WJ outer shafts are the same size/strength as XJ ones, just CV shaft style, right? Same splines, same diameter, slightly different length (thus why everyone uses late XJ bearings with spacers instead of just boring WJ bearings for XJ bolt pattern)

(unless you're talking about the knuckles, bearings etc when you say 'outers')
 
After making a call to Currie, 60's are way out of my price range for a while.

I guess I'll just have to treat the "polished turdy" a little nicer.

I do recommend the RCV shafts if you are going to stay with a 30. No binding, same strength at full lock and they will not take out the knuckle/ball joints if they do say goodbye!!
 
you realize WJ outer shafts are the same size/strength as XJ ones, just CV shaft style, right? Same splines, same diameter, slightly different length (thus why everyone uses late XJ bearings with spacers instead of just boring WJ bearings for XJ bolt pattern)


We all realize that. We are also all talking about using XJ outers.

In my case, we're talking about 30 spline Warn outers, with hardened spindles and chromoly hubs. Way stronger than the similar D44 outers.
 
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