What kind of brew?

[rokclimbertx]

 

[8Mud]

Andechs DoppelBock Dunkel. Brewed in a Monastery. http://www.andechs.de/essen/kochrezepte/Biermixgetraenke4.html
You can cut the stuff with a knife and the, on premises offering, hovers right around 18%. Bottled the alcohol content is a bit less. The stuff is a calorie bomb, that will fire up the old metabolism.

 

[Captain Ron]

Culturing your own yeast is a PITA, I did it for a few years. I can pull off of a bottle and it is easy, but working custom strains just took too much farking time.

As for a good hefe I use a little more wheat malt than two row (or munich if I'm feeling it) 60-40, and a belgian White Labs yeast and it comes out great. My mash is very low and stepped up to sparge; I usually mash this beer overnight. If I really want a more wit style I dust the kettle with clove and a touch of corriander.

Been working with Wyeast 3333 as a base culture. Seems to me that fermenting temps are the key to controlling phenolics. What kind of conversion rates are you getting?

--ron

 

[Captain Ron]

Pyramid makes good chit.

John makes great brew too.

Leinenkugels???

I usually prefer my own homebrew, but my favorite micro is anything Bells, also known as Kalamazoo brewing.

BJ says John does a better extract brew that anyone else he knows.

That's not it. It was a Nut Brown Ale, and I'm sure it had something to do with dead squirrels...

SEAN!

--ron

 

[theslacker]

 

[Highlander]

I brew my own beer.. IPA 60, 90, 120 minutes... Celabration.. Ports

No you don't !!! *LMAO*

Sam brews it and you drink it!! *L*

 

[Highlander]

Well.. I'm a huge fan of anything from overseas...

Duvel
Guiness
Warsteiner
And theres nothing like a pint of heineken in Amsterdam!!!!!!!!!(isn't the same here)

 

[againstherwill]

I like this stuff the best, heavy,think and creamy like a stout but tastes like a pale ale. Hard to beat something thats been made refined for over 600 years.

 

[gcurtis]

Been working with Wyeast 3333 as a base culture. Seems to me that fermenting temps are the key to controlling phenolics. What kind of conversion rates are you getting?

--ron

If I do this recipe as a wit, hold my ferment temps slightly above 70 (I want some character/phenolics to the beer with a wit - fairly true to style not that I really give a damn anymore about style) and use a WLP 300, I can convert 75% or better, if not in the low 80%'s... and the wonder batch of a rare 90% (which rarely happens).

However, if I use that crappy WLP 320 (American Hefe Yeast) it tends to sit pretty high sixties or very low seventies, but if you want a very clean finish it is a good type to go with.

When I go for a higher gravity brew (which is pretty much everything I do these days), instead of a starter I'll brew a small version of the recipe a couple of weeks before to warm the yeast up and get a happy population. Split the drop out between two fermenters and have an explosive fermentation and great attenuation (blow off tubes are your friend).

This also works well if you want to control the phenolics because you have a huge population of very active yeast that will work (literally) under 70* with very little aggitation or other hassling of the yeasties.

I really perfer this technique to stepping up starters for two reasons. First off, I end up with a much bigger slurry that is much more active than a test tube baby. Secondly, it gives me a "jr" version of the beer I'm about to brew so that I can tweek the recipe if needed for spice, off flavors in ferment temps or adjusting the grain bill. When I brew for comps I do every beer in this manner.

But hey, that is just me. RDWHAHB (Relax don't worry have a home brew)!