What is your opinion of this XJ build for sale?

[DrivnXJ]

$5500 for this 01. Im just a weekend warrior.



0331 head issues aside....is this build worth that kind of money?


143k miles


Basics:

Dana 44 front

amc 20 rear.

6 inch lift, 4 linked in front.

4.88 gears/ manual locker.

3/8s steel plating side rub rails.


Had planned on getting a sub 2k XJ and installing the works...but this popped up. Figured id ask what say you?

 

[RCP Phx]

It "looks" good, but......

 

[Skruffy]

$5500 for an 01 doesn’t seem bad to me. All of these Jeeps have issues from years of mods/abuse/neglect. Looks reasonable for weekend wheeling trips. If you are planning on keeping it for a while and wheeling it hard see if all the doors open and close. If they don’t, the unibody could be bent and once that happens they are never the same. Having a clean XJ makes it harder to wheel since you are worried about cosmetic damage (I was anyway). There is something magical about a vehicle you don’t care about too!

 

[DrivnXJ]

There is some truth to that. Hard to find that middle ground.



Im really regretting selling my old long arm xj.



Now they are mostly rust buckets here. I looked at one yesterday for 2200 and I swear the body was levitating off the suspension.

 

[89Mock]

Coil overs
Winch
Front bumper you can bash into rocks
Good year for mechanical.

I’d say $5,000 is what his bottom dollar number is. You can upgrade the axles later.

 

[Evan03]

Lower it a few inches and its good to go.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Ok here is a new option 8K


4.0 automatic Np231 with sye

Rustys 8.5” long arm

38” super swampers on diy beadlocks

Ford hp Dana 44 front, chromoly shafts, Yukon grizzley locker, 5.13 gears
Ford 9” rear, disc brake conversion, chromoly shafts, spool, 5.13 gears

Frame stiffners Rock sliders Hydro assist steering with diy links out of dom tubing and heims
Cage on the inside

 

[RCP Phx]

Again, why do have a need to go so high? The best wheeling rigs run about 4.5-5.5" with cut wheel wells to get max articulation. Other than that you can post parts all day but it doesn't mean they are there or properly installed only you might be able to determine that.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Well I didnt get to choose the lift.


I suppose im mostly asking in regards to the cost of actually going through with a build like this vs just buying someone else junk and go from there.

 

[RCP Phx]

Well I will say you can build a good one for a reasonable price if you do all your homework with the type of parts and where you get them from. It will likely take longer but you will usually get more out of it!

 

[75SV1]

I would look at both as, what do you want and the $$ to get there. Both look clean, ie no rust. Is that so? Then I'd KBB the value as a stocker. Look what is done that you want in a build. See what the parts value is for that and possibly labor. What do you not like? What value does that have is you can resell it. I don't like the height of the lifts.
Presently, I am building a 2" lift. The one has frame stiffeners. I am have some installed on mine. Rust issues in the rear frame was the start of it. So, about $700 in parts, then installation $$. Yes, I know a 2" build. ??? Now, if and when I go to sell it, will someone see that, the Chevy cross over steering etc. Then say all they have to do, is lift to what they want. ???
I's also check and see what steering setup they have and brake mods. The one looks like cross over steering. That's probably $500 or more. If WJ big brakes, that could be $1200-$1600.
Also, define what use you plan for this.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Ok here is a new option 8K


4.0 automatic Np231 with sye

Rustys 8.5” long arm

38” super swampers on diy beadlocks

Ford hp Dana 44 front, chromoly shafts, Yukon grizzley locker, 5.13 gears
Ford 9” rear, disc brake conversion, chromoly shafts, spool, 5.13 gears

Frame stiffners Rock sliders Hydro assist steering with diy links out of dom tubing and heims
Cage on the inside

I would want a look at the third member. if its an aftermarket third it this wouldnt be a terrible deal.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Rustys lift? Pass in my book.

I'd rather buy a stocker and spend a bit more building it myself to know it was done right with good parts.

 

[Skruffy]

Rustys lift? Pass in my book.

I'd rather buy a stocker and spend a bit more building it myself to know it was done right with good parts.

Building your own rig is fun but dont forget that the newest XJ out there is still 19 years old. Even if it has been well taken care of it is going to have some problems. New weather stripping, bushings, window motors, etc all that stuff that wears out overtime adds up on a stocker AND you need to buy new parts too.

 

[89Mock]

Between the two I’d take the second one because of the Ford 9 inch. Much stronger than an AMC 20. Buy another 3rd member and you could have gears for daily driving just by unbolting thirds. Mile high lift can be changed later or you can keep it and learn with it.

 

[daletec]

I paid $4000 for mine, minimal rust, but I am changing the 3 inch lift from blocks/spacers to leafs, coils, shocks, track bar relocation, control arms, ball joints, etc. I only run 31" tires, so my 4.11 gears yield about a 3.70 ratio. I only do forest service roads and some rough roads while pulling a 17 foot, 3000 lb camper. It really depends on your needs.

 

[DrivnXJ]

Wanted to thank everyone for the advice and opinions.



I decided to go all DIY and learn something new. Had a bolt on build years ago and want to take it further this time.



Gonna try to do most everything myself with "budget" in mind.



Got me a clapped out $600 99 that begs for door sill tube and comp cut (rusted out lol)


Going to look at 02 F250 Dana 60 and sterling axles - Hoping to get full assemblies of the truck for $450 total.



Anything else I should be taking of the truck while there?
Gonna try to get the brakes, steering and wheels.