Mnkyboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sandy,Oregon
Got a new belt driven throttle body spacer this weekend
What did you do to your XJ today
- Thread starter Cherokeefever
- Start date
- Location
- NE Texas
Got a new belt driven throttle body spacer this weekend
This should be good
XJCasper
NAXJA Member #1042
- Location
- Yelm, Washington
Got a new belt driven throttle body spacer this weekend
More pics needed...
Mnkyboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sandy,Oregon
Some pics of it disassembled, the supercharger is pretty small once you remove the air/water intercooler.
Trying to get my wheel stud situation figured out before my new wheels get here. With steel wheels I have roughly 3/4" of thread engagement. My plan for aluminum wheels will likely cut that in half because of the thicker mounting flange. I don't like this.
I ordered up some longer studs, but unfortunately these aren't going to work.
I'm having a hell of a time finding longer wheel studs for my front 44 that have the correct knurl placement and shoulder dimensions. ARP appears to make a set, but for $80 for five studs, no thanks.
Stared at my rotor/hub for awhile, and thought about how I could make a standard press in stud work (like what's pictured above). Snap gauged the ID of the rotor, .650". This is the largest diameter in the wheel stud hole.
What I'm wondering is, is there a reason to run the knurl .500" above the head of the stud on the hub flange? Why couldn't I drill out the rotor and hub to a common ID (.675"), and run the knurl on the bottom rotor side instead? For those not familiar, D44 outers press the rotor and hub together using the wheel studs. In this picture the lower step in the hole is the rotor, and the closest surface is the hub flange. It appears .500" of knurl length will engage the rotor and a bit into the hub flange as well, so they should still be pressed together.
Bad idea, or brilliant idea?
Anyone got a part number for longer front D44 studs (2" thread, 3" overall)? Fingers crossed SpecFab has what I need.
I ordered up some longer studs, but unfortunately these aren't going to work.
I'm having a hell of a time finding longer wheel studs for my front 44 that have the correct knurl placement and shoulder dimensions. ARP appears to make a set, but for $80 for five studs, no thanks.
Stared at my rotor/hub for awhile, and thought about how I could make a standard press in stud work (like what's pictured above). Snap gauged the ID of the rotor, .650". This is the largest diameter in the wheel stud hole.
What I'm wondering is, is there a reason to run the knurl .500" above the head of the stud on the hub flange? Why couldn't I drill out the rotor and hub to a common ID (.675"), and run the knurl on the bottom rotor side instead? For those not familiar, D44 outers press the rotor and hub together using the wheel studs. In this picture the lower step in the hole is the rotor, and the closest surface is the hub flange. It appears .500" of knurl length will engage the rotor and a bit into the hub flange as well, so they should still be pressed together.
Bad idea, or brilliant idea?
Anyone got a part number for longer front D44 studs (2" thread, 3" overall)? Fingers crossed SpecFab has what I need.
The floating rotor did cross my mind, but this is pretty standard on D30's. Plus the knurl length is .500" which will extend into the hub flange as well by about .120".
I also considered the 9/16 upgrade. Problem is my rear shafts use a screw in style wheel stud and are already 1/2" (already have longer studs too). I'd have to drill out the flanges, and switch to a press in knurl style stud, which is doable.
The other option is go with something like this, and just run 9/16 on the front axle. I'm already twitching at mismatched lug nuts though.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-278/overview/
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
I was looking at using a floating rotor back when I was a Ford guy.
The pre 76 Ford drum brake hub places the flange closer to the knuckle, I was looking at using a drum hub and mounting the rotor in front of the hub instead of behind as is the norm. All my data was lost years ago but from what I remember it was just about perfect for it.
Not sure if Chevy/Dodge/Jeep hubs followed a similar pattern though.
The pre 76 Ford drum brake hub places the flange closer to the knuckle, I was looking at using a drum hub and mounting the rotor in front of the hub instead of behind as is the norm. All my data was lost years ago but from what I remember it was just about perfect for it.
Not sure if Chevy/Dodge/Jeep hubs followed a similar pattern though.
Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
Finally joined the cool kids club by getting some cheap low tread 33" tires to replace this
Now the fender wells don't look so empty.
Also got some ball joints coming my way to keep that from happening again lol
Now the fender wells don't look so empty.
Also got some ball joints coming my way to keep that from happening again lol
BoringDave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boring
Man you burned though those fast! There was 50% tread or better on them when I sold them to you.
- Location
- NE Texas
There's still plenty of tread on half the tire:dunce:
Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
Mm mm hydro assist. Well that will eventually go in the jeep, like 20 years from now probably at the rate it's taking me to get things finished on it lol
muddypunk
TOOL
- Location
- Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Broke both at the same time no locker just bound up real good.
Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
The parts are slowing piling up lol
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
XJCasper
NAXJA Member #1042
- Location
- Yelm, Washington
While I have replaced many parts trying to figure out why she won't run right...
Yes there were a few things wrong.
We are down to one more issue, which is waiting for my other car to be out of the shop. Then a minor tear down starts...
In the mean time, I will be exiting the XJ world as the reigns will be passed to my son. We have tentative deal for him to buy it from me.
This way, I can get a better daily for mpg, my Stang can be garaged during winter, and my wife can finally get her Wrangler.
Yes there were a few things wrong.
We are down to one more issue, which is waiting for my other car to be out of the shop. Then a minor tear down starts...
In the mean time, I will be exiting the XJ world as the reigns will be passed to my son. We have tentative deal for him to buy it from me.
This way, I can get a better daily for mpg, my Stang can be garaged during winter, and my wife can finally get her Wrangler.
