What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Gears were USA Standard, bearings were the Toyo master install kit. Both from RWKHausSupply. In November we replaced one of the carrier bearings, not both. I think the pinion got pulled at the time just to make sure those bearings were not damaged as well. I first noticed the noise in late December / early January, it got worse over time, and I finally examined the oil in February.

I'm the one who let them get this bad. I didn't ask for help again when I should have.

Other than the brakes the old axle is still together.

The whine I have now is not just on transitions, it is any time I am not coasting. It's quiet but still noticeable.
 
Well if you can hold off selling the old axle I'd love to grab it from you so I can look it over and try to figure out what the hell went wrong with that thing. I think its mostly a result of crap bearings but I' like to do my own analysis to see if there is anything to learn from it for the future. No matter how many you've done there is always something to learn.
 
Just an opinion of what I see from the pics but it looks like improper break-in to me. It never hardened the tooth surface.
Like I said... just going off the pics.
 
Digger87xj said:
Just an opinion of what I see from the pics but it looks like improper break-in to me. It never hardened the tooth surface.
Like I said... just going off the pics.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I would believe that. I tried to follow the break-in procedure as best I could, but with an hour drive home I didn't have time to drive 10 miles and let it cool, etc.

What break-in procedure do you recommend? I've seen at least 10 different opinions on it.
 
I never really worried about it. I check for overheating after 10 miles or so and then go. Think about it, car manufacturers don't do any break in. I bought an Astro Van with the factory hitch. I put a trailer behind it and left for a three day 3000 mile trip with very few stops with maybe 10 miles on it. I put 300k on those gears.

I swapped a set of gears in Moab, promptly went wheeling and did Poison Spider, Gold Bar Rim, and what ever that other trail is that goes with them.
 
Re: Re: What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

SolarBell said:
Interesting. I would believe that. I tried to follow the break-in procedure as best I could, but with an hour drive home I didn't have time to drive 10 miles and let it cool, etc.

What break-in procedure do you recommend? I've seen at least 10 different opinions on it.
Click to expand...

Typically, the 10 mile and cool rule applies. All the aftermarket gear sets usually include a booklet that will tell you their recommended break in. Most will tell you no towing before and to change the gear oil after the 500 mile mark. Most people don't and are fine, some get bit.
The point of the break in is to create a hardened surface. Because it is happening in oil, it is essentially case hardening the gears when done correctly.
Afa OEM gears go, the owners manuals usually do say no towing within the first 500 miles. Again, most people don't even read the manual let alone follow the suggested break in. I think OEM gear makers use better materials and lapping procedures for their gears. They typically have beautiful patterns right out of the box with little effort in setting them.
 
This is right out of the USA Standard Gear manual ... sorry for the poor pic... naxja resizes it

picture.php


Many may poo-poo the break-in but I'm not one to argue with those who make the gears.
 
I always tell people to change the oil out on their next oil change, of course that's assuming they change it regularly.
 
I know I totally missed the towing add-on bit, although I was careful to keep the load really low for the first couple hundred miles and changed the oil about 1000 miles later. I did tow some heavy loads after the first 1k - 2k miles.

Doesn't change the current state but good to know for later.
 
LED's, led's, and no that doesn't mean this is Led's rig.











Daytime running lights. :)



Only turns on in the dark, when the vehicle has moved.



I really like LED's. :)
 
How long til those side ones get ripped off ya think???


Picked up new 9000 series shocks (no bilsteins in correct lengths available in 5125,5150) for sisters ride as we are gonna go ahead and do the budget boost. Just gotta put it all on. Also got some new pads and rotors. As well as a fancy box of fun from boostwerks. :gag:
 
I'm working on lift supports for the rear hatch if they could ship the right parts.
Also the radiator swap providing they sent me the right one.

I'm on hold now. #4 Then off to the parts store for antifreeze.
 
Well got the budget boost and new brakes knocked out. Unfortunately 4wp decided to sell me 'new' shocks that were leaking and damaged as I pulled them out if the box. So I'll be returning those tomorrow. Ordered up some bilsteins from serious and will install hopefully next weekend or whenever they get in.
 
in4aride said:
Well got the budget boost and new brakes knocked out. Unfortunately 4wp decided to sell me 'new' shocks that were leaking and damaged as I pulled them out if the box. So I'll be returning those tomorrow. Ordered up some bilsteins from serious and will install hopefully next weekend or whenever they get in.
Click to expand...

What about the box from Boostwerks???
 
Started on my sliders last weekend. Body is cut out and the 2x8x1/4 tube is laying by my shed at work. Lots of fun cutting out the old sheet metal. Got it cleaned up for the most part and found there is not really a lot of floor pan left on either side. I'm thinking a piece of 10" wide 10ga or 3/16 fb would not only tie in the tube nicely it would add some floor strength too.

my idea via MS Paint

001_zpsfc8893d7.jpg~original


Not sure what to use for kickers to the frame...do I really need to?
 
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