What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[jeepdude25]

ummm complete overhaul....pretty much a new jeep

 

[jimgrms]

Just get ready for winter and order lift skids ect

 

[Hypoid]

grab me a drivers seat like that.....

:roflmao: That's gonna be expensive!

Last summer I saw a nice set of leather two-door seats...with razor cuts in them. The same puke has left his mark on some really nice sploder seats too. :gonnablow

I've made a dollar or two off sploder seats with the air cushions. I wish they were easier to stuff into an XJ.

 

[jdxj]

I'm gona build some hydro assist. But I'm waitin on my steering box! HINT HINT

 

[Kiefer316]

Finally got seats put back in the rig. Got rid of the gear oil smell and It looks GREAT now.

Worst part of surface rust in on the drivers side floor board..

 

[collkid]

Finally got seats put back in the rig. Got rid of the gear oil smell and It looks GREAT now.

Worst part of surface rust in on the drivers side floor board..

WORST SMELL EVER!!!!


Looks very nice and clean now, well done.

 

[mcantar18c]

Nice job Kiefer, looks good!
Yeah that gear oil smell is by far the worst smell that can come out of a vehicle.

This damn Mustang has been keeping me from getting any work done on the Jeep... so yall get pics of it instead.

Got the Willwood brakes set up today... huge rotors, hubs, calipers, master = $8k

Also got a front and a rear tire/wheel to mock up. Carbon fiber wheels, these things are light as hell! With a price tag to match of course. Word is its getting a CF driveshaft too.
The theme is black with subtle red accents and hints of brushed metal here and there. I think its coming out pretty damn good.

*NOT* ride hight, will be about 2ish" lower.

Ran into a problem though... these gawd damn wide-azz rears (370s) are TOO wide... they're getting in the way of the control arm mounts (triangulated 4link) :banghead:
Should be getting the drivetrain in the next few days... dual superchargers :eyes:

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Call me crazy, but aren't those rotors supposed to be turned on a lathe to remove the paint/coating?

And do I see a '64/'65 GTO in that last pic????

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

Call me crazy, but aren't those rotors supposed to be turned on a lathe to remove the paint/coating?

And do I see a '64/'65 GTO in that last pic????

Your CRAZY!!!!!!

SRP Drilled Performance Rotor
For custom, show, and high performance sport driving, SRP rotors offer the high tech look and improved performance of a directional cross-drill and face slot pattern. In addition to the aesthetic appeal, the venting and cleaning action of the hole and slot pattern helps to reduce pad glaze and minimize irregular pad build-up on the rotor faces. The results are a smoother engagement feel at the pedal and consistent response from the pads. Each rotor is precision machined to less than .001" tolerance for overall flatness, parallelism, and radial run-out on long grain carbon iron castings. The rotors are finished with a black electro coat to provide corrosion resistance.

 

[mcantar18c]

Call me crazy, but aren't those rotors supposed to be turned on a lathe to remove the paint/coating?

And do I see a '64/'65 GTO in that last pic????

You're crazy. Your brake pads do the job, no need to turn em. Just like the oily coating on Checker-bought rotors.

And yup

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Why would it ever be a good idea to make the brake pads scrub off and absorb any kind of coating on the actual friction surface? I'm sure the coating is intended for corrosion protection for the non-friction, exposed surfaces, but really? Scrub it off with the brake pads?

 

[mcantar18c]

I see your point, but I've never had issues/heard of anyone having issues with it. And since every brake component on this thing is Willwood, I'd assume its all made to work with each other.
Lemme put it this way... this car is bringin in almost $100k in labor and well over $50k in parts... and will be on the cover of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine... and some other stuff I can't say. NOTHING is being overlooked. Even shit like the RCA line I ran the other day from one amp to another amp needs to look good, and that's being covered up with fiberglass and upholstery.
So if the coating needed to be turned off, I'm sure they'd let me know :dunno:

 

[xj-grin]

I hesitated to post in here, since I thought my list might suck up the last of 's bandwidth...

• clean the friggin garage so I might possibly get some work done
• Go by Frank's in the nifty new-to-me cargo van and pick up my axles, so he has less concern with the above item in his garage
• disassemble two 231 t-cases, re-assemble the 99 version with my new-to-me 6-gear planetary gearset and my spare NP247 input gear, and the SYE from the 93 case
• Install above case in WJ
• Remove the entire dash and replace the heater core - yeah.
• re-assemble the dash, and repair the "blend door" issue which causes my climate control not to work, even if the heater core didn't blow coolant mist...
• pull the steering wheel and replace the clock-spring that has disabled my airbags, makes random warning lights come on, and random "bings", sometimes frequently, emanate from the dash
• replace all of the support thrusts, every last damn one of them -- hood, lift window, liftgate
• Holy Shit - I get to work on the lift portion of the WJ!!!:sunshine:
• Replace the stock crossmember with the Clayton's version from which my front long-arms will mount (grind to metal beforehand), and prep unibody for rear triangulated 4-link mounts, framerail stiffiners
• Cruise back to Frank's to have him cook the Claytons crossmember and 4-link mounts on -- there are certain things I refuse to do with the flux-core, and 1/4" steel to unibody on suspension parts is one of them...
• get the WJ back in the garage, and up on jackstands to remove the stock axles
• mock up front JKaxle, and determine whether the 1" I am supposed to move the JK coil buckets inwards is necessary or if I can live with the spring-bow... get anal and move the buckets anyways.
• install front long arms & shocks
• rework mounts as necessary on rear axle for lower links -- uppers are part of a truss that will need to be cooked on...
• install rear 4-link arms & shocks
• Buy a sufficient quantity of MGD to get Frank to come over and do a mobile oh-crap garage affair for a new trac bar and draglink (and cook on the rear truss/4-link mount)
• pray that my guesstimates on driveshaft length were right -- then take driveshafts to shop to have em shortened/lengthened and balanced
• figure out the wiring for my JK rear e-locker
• figure out the wiring for my speedometer with the different ABS sensors in the JK axles, or hot wire it to the t-case output...
• lord only knows what else awaits...:confused1

of course before I do any of that, I need to wrap up the main-floor bath remodel (my drywall skills blow, I'm reworking the tape/mud for the 3rd time this weekend -- then install toilet and new vanity, baseboards, and crown molding), wrap up the master bath remodel (install heated mat, tile, grout, add tile detail to shower).

Think I have a snowball's chance of finishing before Christmas?? :bs:

Oh, and SOMEONE BUY MY STROKER!!!!:jester:

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Wierd thing is, all of the pics I found on line by Wilwood show their products with bare steel, not coated........... but a few links to magazine articles of the install show the final assembly process leaving the coating on....... :dunno:

All I know is I'd be pissed if that were my car and the first few miles of use involved brake chatter or grabbing because of crap that shoulda been removed prior to use. I'll be interested to hear if that coating just burns off quickly or ?

 

[.40CalPatriot]

I really like the wheels but I am not a fan of them on this project. I would have gone with a more "classic" looking wheel.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

I really like the wheels but I am not a fan of them on this project. I would have gone with a more "classic" looking wheel.

LOL! Whut? There is VERY little "classic" look left on that damn thing. Did you notice the "13" cut outs for the tail lights? The shit-ton of body work on it? It looks like one of the Adams Family kids would drive it......... it's like a demonic Eleanor

Dunno what your definition of "classic" would be when fitting a tire/wheel combo on that radical ride. :dunno:



Well, from Wilwood's FAQ section regarding the rotor coating:

Q: Does my pad bedding process change at all if I have e-coated rotors?

A: No, the bedding process is the same. Remember, proper break-in of pads and rotors is extremely important. Not doing so, can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. For further information on bedding, please consult Wilwood's Tech Tip Guide.You can also contact a Wilwood Sales Technician at 805-388-1188 or email Sales/Tech Support.


Q: What do the black rotors look like once they are bedded in?

A:The annulus (where the pad comes in contact with the rotor) is quickly stripped of the e-coating and appears the same as any iron rotor. The e-coating remains in the radius around the drilled holes, and in the slots providing a nice contrast and high visibility of the drilled and slotting pattern of the rotor, as well as protecting those areas from rust.


Q: Why are my rotors black, I wanted zinc?

A:Wilwood uses a process called “E-Coating” to protect our rotors from corrosion. E- coating is another name for electrocoating, electropainting, or electrophoretic lacquering. It is used to deposit a protective coating as opposed to a metal such as is deposited by electroplating. Parts are dipped into a vat of the e-coat material and are electrified in order to promote a reaction at the surface, which deposits the protective agent. Through this process, we ensure that all exposed surfaces are protected from corrosion, providing the very best in protection. You can still order Zinc plated rotors as an option, but keep in mind that the zinc coating is more expensive and offers less rust protection than e-coat.


I officially learned something new today.......... :thumbup:

 

[.40CalPatriot]

the wheels were what stuck out to me the most. If it were my build the whole thing would be done to look original

 

[xj-grin]

I wouldn't necessarily do my mustang original (I should change that to future tense... someday), but I would certainly be in more of a resto-mod type of build than this one. That said, the lines on an early fastback mustang (pre 71) are so fantastic that it is kinda hard to screw them up... those "13" tail lights are working on being hideous, however.

 

[mcantar18c]

LOL! Whut? There is VERY little "classic" look left on that damn thing. Did you notice the "13" cut outs for the tail lights? The shit-ton of body work on it? It looks like one of the Adams Family kids would drive it......... it's like a demonic Eleanor

That's cause 13 and Eleanor have the same parents :eyes:
Yes. I mean it like that.

the wheels were what stuck out to me the most. If it were my build the whole thing would be done to look original

The only original/factory piece of anything on this vehicle is the half inch by 4 inch strip that the vin is stamped on... EVERYTHING has been custom made for this car. "Original" went out the window a long time ago.

I wouldn't necessarily do my mustang original (I should change that to future tense... someday), but I would certainly be in more of a resto-mod type of build than this one. That said, the lines on an early fastback mustang (pre 71) are so fantastic that it is kinda hard to screw them up... those "13" tail lights are working on being hideous, however.

Yeah I'm not a fan of the tail lights. But whatever. The grill is gonna be steel mesh, but the holes are gonna be little 13s lol... speaking of which, anybody have access to a water-jet or a laser cutting table? Cause we're looking for somebody to do that grill for us.

 

[xj-grin]

That's cause 13 and Eleanor have the same parents :eyes:
Yes. I mean it like that.

you lost me mac. :dunno: