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welding tow hooks

What I have read is that tow hooks are forged, and welding screws up the temper, causing embrittlement.

Not a good idea. We don't allow welded hooks at NAC events.
 
Seen it done once on a bumper that I took off (and replaced with mine). Smacked it them with a 4lb hammer and it cracked on the hook itself, brittle brittle brittle. That would not be cool to see one fly off during an extraction.
 
i've seen it done and used heavily with no problems, but it was welded by a very, very experienced welder. I would HIGHLY discourage it, and I would not pull you out if you were stuck and you had welded hooks. Bolts are easy, use them. Grade 8.
 
i use to have one welded on the front of mine, long since replaced by bolts. the guy that did it was very experienced(welded for a living) i trusted it but never got a chance to try it very heavily. i wouldnt do it again though
 
go to a place that sells parts for building and repairing hydraulic equipment. Buy a couple of 1" thick 10,000 lb rated cyclinder mounting tabs and weld them on (or have it done if you are not top-notch).
Then add a triangle gusset to the top and weld it to the tab and to the bumper.
 
Use bolts, you don't want hooks to break, they could literally kill the guy strapping you. if you try to get through inspection at the place I wheel and you have them they paint them pink and you can't use em. inspecting welds is an art, but you can quickly look at bolts and see that they're grade 5 or 8, and know for sure how strong it is.

Bolts all the way, 5 or 8. no welder, however experienced, can consistantly get the strength of grade 8 bolts every time. likewise, any idiot can bolt things just as well as a pro can.
 
Well i just bought a set of hooks with retainer clips. Gonna bolt em thru my front push guard which isnt much of a bumper and would probably bend it trying to tow it using the hooks. So, gonna give em a weld then weld up added supports to the frame and bumper off of the push grill guard and i'll post results.

I just welded up a GOOD pair of rock rail sliders using the existing smitty nerf bars!! Thru some beads on the nerf and then welded a 1.75 steel bar down the center one inch down from the rocker pannels then welded the ends. The hi-lift picks up the whole side with the bolted (now welded) on nerf step bars!! NOT DONE EITHER...another tube is going down the side of the frame rail and welded as well then a few tie ins and that should beat out spending $250 plus for rock rails!!
 
BIG-G said:
Well i just bought a set of hooks with retainer clips. Gonna bolt em thru my front push guard which isnt much of a bumper and would probably bend it trying to tow it using the hooks. So, gonna give em a weld then weld up added supports to the frame and bumper off of the push grill guard and i'll post results.
How about you weld up a bracket and then bolt the hook to the bracket?
 
Big-G, if that push bar is just bolted to the stock bumper, it is not an adequate tow point regardless of how much extra crap you weld to it. Find another way.
 
Lawn Cher' said:
Big-G, if that push bar is just bolted to the stock bumper, it is not an adequate tow point regardless of how much extra crap you weld to it. Find another way.

Its actually bolted underneath to a bracket to the frame and fits over the stock front bumper. I have pics some where.
 
lets see some pics of those nerf/sliders
 
BIG-G said:
Not a bad idea, i'll try both and test which works better/stronger.

Lovely. There's nothing like destructive testing for recovery points. :wierd:
 
BIG-G said:
Not a bad idea, i'll try both and test which works better/stronger.

As someone speaking from the experiance of losing a hook under a hard pull, don't bother showing up for a MWC run with that set-up.

We are just trying to help...get the correct brackets.

Rev
 
BIG-G said:
Not a bad idea, i'll try both and test which works better/stronger.
Don't bring it to a NAC event to test it, either. Do it right or don't do it at all.
 
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