Totally missed the your post...
I'm going to check fuel pressure right now.
Map checked out
Mat checks out
CTS appears to be 200 ohm off my gauge read 210 my IR gun read 220 at a freeze plug but the CTS was 400 ohm, I'm not sure what it takes to deem one busted.
Does the EFR sensor report back to the computer or only activate the EGR?
Happy to say the fuel pressure checks out.
I'm glad because if the pump was bad I'd probably re-do the whole fuel system
I'm not entirely convinced that it's not the torque converter in the video.
Either way I still have it cutting out when I roll on the throttle so I'll check out the 02 sensor next.
Just cutting out when rolling on throttle, I'm going to replace the TPS tomorrow I tested it but maybe there's something up between idle and wot.
O2 didn't change anything.
Shifts feel fine.
I'd think if it's drives ok then it'd be Something like TPS because as you said it is wide open when it fluctuates. But it should have been ok if it test good. I never trust myself on those test so I usually replace it if in doubt.
Than again thinking about it I'm not sure how much oil pressure the transmission needs to preform at those levels. If it were something like that then maybe it only show up at full throttle. My gut says a test drive with the transmission should prove it good or bad, but don't want you to miss out on a possible solution.
Just cutting out when rolling on throttle, I'm going to replace the TPS tomorrow I tested it but maybe there's something up between idle and wot.
O2 didn't change anything.
Shifts feel fine.
What year is this rig? The computer, bulk of the jeep controls...
I know the newer vehicles, possibly HOs-91 and up, or OBD-IIs, 96 and up have a throttle limiter designed to keep the engine from red lining, I have seen them operate on my sons 96 ford Taurus and the daughters 2001 Saturn and they do what you are seeing at about 3900 rpm in park.
Just cutting out when rolling on throttle, I'm going to replace the TPS tomorrow I tested it but maybe there's something up between idle and wot.
O2 didn't change anything.
Shifts feel fine.
If you read through my old "The RenX files" thread in this forum the data for testing the TPS on each side of the TPS, mounted, and un-mounted are posted there and no where else in the world or the factory service manuals. You can test the TPS with the power off and/or on using that data.
I already got a new TPS. The base reading for the old one was correct but I don't know about during the range of throttle.
Just waiting for an electrician to come monday and fix my 220v so I can use my plas to make a better TPS adapter. I don't like the idea of modifying the TPS to get it to fit. especially if I may warranty it in the future.
I already got a new TPS. The base reading for the old one was correct but I don't know about during the range of throttle.
Just waiting for an electrician to come monday and fix my 220v so I can use my plas to make a better TPS adapter. I don't like the idea of modifying the TPS to get it to fit. especially if I may warranty it in the future.
Good plan the TPS is easy to damage and can be ruined permanently by letting them get wet. I hear that many aftermarket TPS units are know to not work right just from posts here the last 10 years, but I got good ones from Rock Auto IIRC about 8 years ago. Many here swear by OEM (or OEM JY) only on the CPS and TPS for Renix.
I learned a lot running all sorts of ohm tests on mounted and unmounted Renix TPS sensors in my research. I had 3-4 used ones that were all over the map with good operation in spots and not in others. One had a noisy resistance at idle on one side and not the other, and one had a noisy resistance a cruise speeds on the engine side only, and another had a flat spot for a wide path of movement on one side, the TCU transmission side, non of which show up on a simple OEM manual calibration test. Mine, the first bad one I had was perfect on the Engine operation side and was way WAY off on the sweep of the Transmission control side. It had me shifting into 4th gear at 15 MPH!!!! But the engine side was perfect.
I'd think if it's drives ok then it'd be Something like TPS because as you said it is wide open when it fluctuates. But it should have been ok if it test good. I never trust myself on those test so I usually replace it if in doubt.
Than again thinking about it I'm not sure how much oil pressure the transmission needs to preform at those levels. If it were something like that then maybe it only show up at full throttle. My gut says a test drive with the transmission should prove it good or bad, but don't want you to miss out on a possible solution.
I recall something about WOT while cranking shutting off the fuel at the injectors on Renix as a program step in the ECU. We use it to dry out flooded no start Renix rigs, I wonder if the lock up (tire spinning and rig not moving) could be somehow triggering a fuel cut back on Renix as part of the normal operation??? May be grasping at straws here?
But I would suspect a defective spot on the TPS at WOT on one of the two sides of the TPS as a more likely usual suspect.
Testing the TPS at the WOT area with an ohm meter for noisy operation at and near WOT, versus smooth resistance (An analog, old needle style, volt meter is much easier to see it with), would show this. This is done with the power off and using the ohm settings on the meter.
Since it says Renix can I assume it is a Renix TPS and computers, TCU and ECU or is just an ungraded Renix engine in a 99 XJ? How did you mount a Renix TPS to a 99 intake/TB?
OK I totally missed this before. Reading through the entire thread again.
I thought the issue was at WOT.
That could be a loss of power to the O2 sensor heater wire, issues with it switching from open loop to closed loop while it warms up.. into closed loop. Can you give us more details? You said you replaced the O2 sensor already? What brand O2 sensor did you use? Was it an HO sensor or Renix? I am still not 100% clear what you have, what is Renix and what is not?
