Water/sand in engine

Too bad, but not unexpected after what she went through.
 
HenryKrinkle said:
They used a silica-based powder/sand to destroy all those cash-for-clunkers engines. Granite has a very high silica content (>60%). I would not guess your engine will last long. Might be a good time to research Strokers. With the cylinders bored out and new pistons/rings, you may be ok. Or hit up craigslist/junkyards for 4.0s.

Good luck and sorry for your predicament....
Click to expand...
It's actually sodium silicate IIRC, a water-soluble silicon-containing compound. When the water boils off, it leaves solid sodium silicate behind.

lowicz96 said:
What finally went? Threw a rod or spun a bearing?
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X2.

I can pick up 4.0s at my local you-pull-it for $100 if I pull them myself. Pulling a 4.0 in a junkyard full of mud and 6" crushed stone seems like a real challenge but I'd do it if I had to.

Good luck with the swap! If you have an auto, make sure you install the TC in the transmission (seat it fully) and then bolt it to the flexplate after bolting the engine block to the bellhousing, don't "bonehead" the TC into the transmission. That's one of the biggest gotchas there is in an auto engine swap, since you have to pull it all apart again and repair the transmission, the rest can be fixed without too much pain if you get it wrong the first time.
 
kastein said:
Good luck with the swap! If you have an auto, make sure you install the TC in the transmission (seat it fully) and then bolt it to the flexplate after bolting the engine block to the bellhousing, don't "bonehead" the TC into the transmission. That's one of the biggest gotchas there is in an auto engine swap, since you have to pull it all apart again and repair the transmission, the rest can be fixed without too much pain if you get it wrong the first time.
Click to expand...

this is most excellent. When you reinstall the TC it will clunk, you turn it about a half a turn and it clunks in again, then continue turnig it until it clunks a third time.
While you're there you might as well replace the front seal, it's cheap, and pretty easy to do with the proper piece of tube/pipe..
Also, when you get the yard engine you might as well drop the pan and do the rear main. Also cheap, and it's a whole lot easier to do with the motor not in the jeep. I'd go ahead and do the new pan and valve cover gaskets as well. And check the timing cover gaskets for leaks too. Gaskets are cheap, and doing these jobs before you stick the motr in the Jeep is tons easier.
 
I'm not sure what went. I think its a rod, but there is a gash going from the front driver side of the engine just above where the oil pan mounts going all the way down and up the other side of the oil pan. Oil and coolant together were pooring onto the side of the road. looks like the predator got a hold of it.

On a side note. by TC do you mean T-case or what are you refering too. this will be my first engine swap and will be learning as I go. I helped install a chevy V8 last weekend, but thats the extent of my experience. During that, we basically wressled the engine into place, bolted the fly wheel to the bell housing and the motor mount in and the bolts holding the transmission to the Engine. Is that basically it, or is there something I need to keep in mind that is 4.0/jeep specific. thanks in advance as I hopefully don't want to do this more than once, or have something go wrong that I'm not aware of.
 
By TC I mean Torque Converter in this case - sorry, forgot that acronym had two meanings :dunce:

Sounds like a rod let loose close-ish to the piston end, and did a number on everything as it swung wildly around the crankshaft.
 
damn man sorry that happened. i did the same thing to mine but pulled it before it actually blew. just had a bad knock. got any pics?
 
Flexing out a little in the yard

DSCN4626.jpg


What my Engine looks like

DSCN4764.jpg


I didn't get a knock or anything. it was running fine, then out of nowhere bam,clang, and some other bad sounds, and I was done.
 
Damn, yeah, that's definitely a rod that let loose, or a piston that completely disappeared and left a rod to get loose. Looks like the #1 cylinder.

When you pull the old engine, sandblast the block/other fun parts and keep them around as furniture/conversation pieces...
 
Hell, just pull the pan, remove what is left of the rod, clean the oil pump pickup screen, put on a new pan and RUN IT--lots of life left in the old girl!
 
Remember to add a piece of Coke can strapped around the crankshaft with a decent hose clamp otherwise your oil pressure will disappear! :roflmao::gee:

one of the recent 24 hours of lemons racers actually did this, two of the cylinders in their 4cyl blew up so they pulled them and blocked the oil galleries, then another one blew so they did it again, they actually did a few laps with a 1-cylinder 4-stroke engine that way.
 
sleeperjeeper said:
well, I figured I'd come on here and eat crow. my engine just blew up. sucks, but at least I have a line on an decent engine.
Click to expand...

Shocker.

On the good news front, look at all the spare parts, accessories and sensors you now have.



Now... tell me more about that shop that you trust. Still got that trust in his judgment?
 
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