wagoneer 44 into a xj

Looks beefy, my front shaft is the factory Xj auto shaft, shortened about an inch. Its easy to shorten them. Cut it in the middle and remove the length you need shortened, Need a piece of 1.75" od tube to sleeve the inside to keep it straight, slide it all together (need mallet to slide it together) and weld it up.

shit i just sold my xj shaft to one of my buddies.....ill see what the local yard has maybe i can get it for a fair price..its definitely beefy...heavy bastard to lifting it by myself...wish i had someone to help haha
 
not crazy bowed..the driver side is perfect the passenger side spring plate is leaning forward only a few degree's...no contact with the coil and bump stop but i notice it
 
update the axle is geared....wooooooo set the backlash last night got .008 pretty happy about everything until i tried putting the drivers side axle tube seal in......i got impatient and just kept hammering the seal...turned it into a piece of tin foil....so i had to order a new one from napa.....P/N 13256 if anyone ever need the P/N.

Finished the passenger side mid frame stiffener. And mounted the slider back onto it. Did some 3 inch stitch welds to mount the legs to the frame rails...bastards aren't going anywhere now.

Oh yea and mid frame stiffeners suck! To put on but oh well it's worth it.

Should get the axle sealed up and done Friday and painted.
Then finish up the driver's side mid frame stiffener.
Put together. FINALLY party1:
 
wagoneer front end is installed...but i have a very common problem.

searched google and didnt have much luck all very old threads..none giving a difinitive answer...

i have VERY SPONGY BRAKES....calipers are on correctly and bled over and over from furthest caliper to closest to MC...understand big truck brakes small MC but does anyone have any other remedies besides replacing the MC or if i do have to replace the MC which one to replace
 
I'm ruining factory MC, I noticed I had a really low soft pedal at first....bled a few more times, didn't change, so I just drove it and got used to it, then it randomly came up more and had between almost normal ever since.... it does however have a lot better braking then factory with my 35s. I would imagine a bigger MC would only make it better.
 
just worried about it cuz i need to tow with it for next weekends camping trip and i have a full car of people would like to be safe as possible. Thanks for the reply....anyone have any other recommendations as a permanent fix? Just want a stiff pedal back
 
I run a factory MC in my ZJ with D44/8.8 brakes and it will lock up the 35's. From what I've heard if you go too big with the MC it makes the brakes too touchy and you lose your modulation in the pedal. There's a good thread on Pirate about which MC's work best with which combo's, probably worth a read.
 
i came across that thread believe vette boy started it will have to dig more but it was just general upgrades for MC....i have rear 8.8 brakes and a front 44 as well....curious will a zj master fit in my xj? worth an upgrade? or relatively the same MC

thanks for the reply
 
just get a MC out of a 2500 ram. it will make a HUGE difference. and I dont think it was that expensive. its worth it. especially if you drive it on the street.

what size tires you running? I can lock up my 37s at least I could when my rear lines didnt leak like crazy.
 
Need to fix the brakes feels like i'm kicking a pillow

get a shorter drag link (contact issue between the drag link tie rod end and the tie rod end on the tie rod both jam nuts are touching)

wire the locker

get a shorter driveshaft

But here it is I can get better pictures if ya guys want.
0727131757_zps8d714c2e.jpg
 
Re: Re: wagoneer 44 into a xj

just get a MC out of a 2500 ram. it will make a HUGE difference. and I dont think it was that expensive. its worth it. especially if you drive it on the street.

what size tires you running? I can lock up my 37s at least I could when my rear lines didnt leak like crazy.

I did that and I had to extend the plunget between the boostet and the MC. It won't clear the hood either. I had to use spacers on the hood hinges. That helps with air flow though.
 
I did that and I had to extend the plunget between the boostet and the MC. It won't clear the hood either. I had to use spacers on the hood hinges. That helps with air flow though.

Thats weird. It cleared mine fine. And im pretty sure it cleared outlanders fine too. But yea you doo have to extend the plunger.
 
Jeep looks sick dude. I have the same issue with the spongy pedal, i tried the dodge 2500 MC and it made the pedal much grab higher, but the brakes sucked, borderline unsafe to drive, so i put the stock one back in. If i ever decide to put more money in my jeep, ill do the durango MC.
 
thanks man

the brakes do grab higher...the brakes are pretty good not great but pretty good...still do not feel like they are grabbing to full potential but way better than they were with the stock MC. I've read a little about the durango master but not enough to convince me to go that route. Let me know if you decide to go that route and what the results are
 
upper clayton jj bushing popped out on my track bar....pretty shitty any recommendations for a possible heim that will work with the clayton track bar? or should i just rebuild it? didnt even wheel it just drove up to lake george and back
 
Did you disassemble it ever? I had a bitch of a time getting the snap ring to seat properly after rebuilding one, I had to use a shop press. Any pictures of the Jeep?
 
never disassembled it seems stiff no lateral play was very tight. their is a picture on the page before this. I could get more. tho..sorry I'm using someone else's computer cuz mine shit the bed if you want some more I'd be happy to take them.

oh and the 2500 master the pedal still goes to the floor I think I might gut the prop valve or go to the zj prop valve cuz the brakes are no bueno...got a longer push rod as well for the pedal throw and bled the MC and the brakes a lot
 
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